Typical Phish Phashon I found an old parts ebay guy within a 1.5 hour drive. Suppose to be an overhauled 28 motor by someone but using the scope showed outherwise. So we negotiated a parts deal and we beat the rain back. Looks like stop leak everywhere so will tear into it in a few. Went ahead and grabbed another transmission as well. WE GOT PARTS. If I can get a motor together out of the three, HB be running soon I hope. Phish
SCORE::: It has been overhauled. So far the bad is a filthy water jacket. The stains that looked like water leaks were melted spray copper gasket on the new head gasket. So far so good. Stock bore, no wear and Rusto sent me some standard OEM rings. New clutch and plate. If the bottom checks out I will be tickeled xless. Touch hone and new rings. Even painted the right color.
Ennie-Menee-Minee-MO This latest engine is named Halfa$$. (HA) The head is like new other than water jacket crud. This was a head rework, put on a stock short block with skirt expanders on 2 of the pistons. They missed the rear seal trough so just blew in a couple tubes of high temp red. It was the run on stand based on the stains. So what we have here is a "failure to comunicate", I mean quit buying used motors.
LP truck has a running engine, square head bolt on front, puffs smoke at shifts, pulls hard but load rattle of a bearing and leaky oil pan. We can fix that for around town trips, not cross country. No idea of bore, etc as not dismantled.
Pile 1 (P1) has spinning 50 over rotating assembly which I broke a piece of babbit of the side of a rod during disassembly. Rods have shims. Crank shows no "egg", stock journal size but head is pitted from decades of valve open in Albert, Ks. pop 166.
Pile 2 (P2) Totally froze due to mouse condos in crankcase, same Albert, Ks. Pistons show 40 over and block number matchs title. Some rods have shims and nasty crank does mic same as P1. Same pitted valve seats as P1 head.
SO, why not use a shimmed rod off the P2 motor with a 50 over P1 piston to replace the broken babbit? Touch hone and reassemble with nice HA head. WALLA 50 over P1 Hillbilly truck motor. Of course we will mic all the stuff at assembly. Then using HA motor and a P1/P2 head for total build of the final LP truck motor. UNCLE
Phish, Have you noticed that the cylinder head, if original, has the engine number stamped on one of the machined surfaces for the manifold mounting. If it matters to you, it would be a reason to rebuild a matching number head instead of swapping.
I did not know that. Now you made a brain wrinkle! Who gonna' pay for 'dat? Remind me to tell you the story behind that quote one day. LOL Will look for those numbers on the heads today. We can't deal with this babbit stuff (and it's important) so loading a crate for J&M Engines in Mass. Phish
What is so wierd, the motor I picked up in Houston measures 5 thou under stock bore in holes 2,3 & 4. 1 has 6 thou wear (over stock) in line with the crank, stock on the sides. We are measuring in the wear area using 3.70 as stock, correct? 94mm =3.701 but 3 11/16" = 3.6875 All that plus the skirt expanders wigs me out. Sending to a pro.
P2 block/crank heading to J&M Machine as P1 crank no good. Installed new brake liners for HB truck. Trying to get a spot back in the shop for it today. I do not trust the wood spokes so will send them for rebuild. Jethro
Great news. P2 crank not cracked and .020 bent. Already straight. New brake liners, packed bearings and start on bed and seating this weekend. Rims sent to Calimers. Jed
Brakes are done. Have one steering knuckle to heat and service and under carriage is complete, Using clecos we began body assembly. Stitch welded broken fenders and are using the back wall off a car for our rear wall. We will cut our own wood using the LP truck as our pattern. Of course the "grown in frame" stump will remain. On deck is the rear deck......Jethro
The only good thing about hurricane Laura is there is plenty of scrap to build the bed out of. First try was a cutup thinwall gate. That was not strong enough to hang stuff on. So we went with wood. Nothing bolted together yet, maybe today.
Restored the farmer heater and built the front floor. Stump staying of course as well as a home made mirror made many years ago..... Motor at J&M and wheels at Calimers. Jed
Good idea, better yet we have rusty barbed wire. Heading to a flea market to get more goodies. Fund raisers already asking about booking. Anyone feel free to comment on fixtures. Truck/car not perfect screen accurate but when you see it, you know what it is. Thanks, Jed.
OK P1 powerplant heading south. I requested NO paint so it will match our theme. Drop it in next week before Great Race. Jed
PS J&M aint cheap but pics of the build along the way and the equipment thay have is top shelf. I will not be scared to drive this or the LP truck anywhere.
OK back on the HB truck. Hurricanes, USNATS, Lemons 24 has diverted our attention for sometime. SO we have both high dollar J&M engines here. We dropped P1 into the HB truck with its 4 speed. The front engine mount hole was shot so we cut in one from the doner chassis. Rebuilt steering box while motor was out. Keeping the original LP close to use for pattern IE fasteners etc. Put the milk lenses on it while in the shop. HB needs wiring, exhaust, fuel system, water pump rebuild etc. Phish
What grease are you putting into the steering box? There have been discussions about that in the forums. Most agree that you need a semi-fluid (self leveling) type of grease. Too thick to leak out of the pitman shaft, but fluid enough to not caviate and get into small nooks and crannies.
I use a mixture of 1/3 Mobil 600W and 2/3 John Deere Corn Head grease.
Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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