Re: Fixing my Dad's 1929 Chevy - Its a Surprise!
beachbum
03/28/24 06:14 PM
One more thought. The brakes on a '29 have a lot of moving parts that will become stiff and drag. Roll around underneath the car and oil every part that pivots, moves, slides, turns, or pulls with 30 weight oil. WD40 will not be good enough, it dries out and does not leave any lubrication. All the way from the pedal, and the emergency brake lever to the wheels. You need to do this at least once a year before touring season. There is also an odd little equalizer at the front brake trunnion as well that helps the shoes adjust in the drum. If the car has been sitting, or that area has never been lubricated there is a good chance that the front brakes won't be as effective as they should be.
You can reach out to virtually any one on this forum. Either by the chat site, a private message (PM), or a direct email you can print off as a reference. We all enjoy seeing and hearing stories such as yours. Many of these cars are getting torn down to make rat rods, and hot rods. There are getting fewer and fewer. I believe you don't have to hot rod them all, and you don't have to save them all.
For parts the Filling Station in Lebanon OR, Marx Parts, or 20schevyparts online are a good start. Or if it is something else you need you can post in the "parts wanted" forum further down this page.
Please keep us posted as to your progress.
Thanks
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Re: Valve spring length for 31 chev 194
beachbum
03/28/24 05:33 PM
If you are looking for a dimension of assembled height like a modern engine would have, I don't think that number was ever documented. "It is what it is"
Oiling of the cam shaft lobes was somewhat limited on these old engines, so it is not a good idea to get too carried away with the valve spring tension. You should be able to push down and exercise every one of the valves while assembled on the cylinder head by hand.
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Re: 1932 deluxe 2 door Coupe
WildernessTruck
03/28/24 03:55 PM
I would recommend that you take it out for a test drive, with the owner sitting beside you.... see if you like the way it feels on the road... ask the owner if it has any mechanical issues, that he knows of, that might need repair or replacement soon.... see how it steers and brakes... and ask him what his bottom line selling price is... these vintage cars... don't drive and handle like a modern car... so check it out and see if it is really what you want.... I like the way they put you back in time... to a slower pace of Life... as you take them out for a Joy ride.....
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Re: Correct coil
Skidplate
03/28/24 03:08 PM
Any of us who has tried to troubleshoot this issue has found themselves unable to completely explain what they did to fix the problem. With me it was... keep tweaking things until it finally stopped happening.
For example, I adjusted the valves AGAIN until I finally got them right. I had to get the engine completely up to temperature. Not just in the garage but drive it around for awhile. Then pull it in and adjust. That made a big difference.
The modern fuels DO NOT like old cars. I could not keep the fuel from percolating out of the carb. Worked fine when cold... wouldn't start when hot. I finally installed a return line just past the fuel pump back to the gas tank. That helped a lot with cooling the fuel but I had to use an electric fuel pump that many people don't want to use. It also requires 12v... equally an issue if you still use 6v.
I adjusted the float down a little. Equally helped a little.
I installed a little thicker insulating gasket under the carb and a heat shield (sheet metal) between the exhaust manifold and carb.
I made sure my fuel line from the pump to the carb was away from any heat source.
I also added at least two fuel filters between tank and carb. One before the pump and one before the carb. There is no way you'll ever get all the crap out of your tank so you need to filter a lot.
And finally there are lots of people who will say that this is all unnecessary. All you need to do is tune everything correctly exactly the way it was built and it will work great. Well all the best luck with that, but it hasn't worked that way for me.
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Re: Anyone in the Area of the Barry Weeks parts Auction?
Nick_in_Manitou
03/28/24 02:09 PM
Thanks for the response, Tiny.
I had heard that Barry was well known to the Stovebolt community and saw the discussion there, but my membership over there has not been approved yet (applied a few days ago), so I hoped that someone here might be going.
I am interested in at least a couple of lots.
Nick
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Re: 41 Special Deluxe
Mr87Monty
03/28/24 12:53 PM
I have a 41 Master Deluxe with the original 216 and it has a Carter carb, not the original but the same model that came on it. It needs some choke (1/4 - 1/2) until it is warms up. Once warmed up it will idle without any throttle.
In the past on this car I have had a bad coil cause the car to require more throttle to keep it going and as it would stall at low RPM.
In another instance it had a carb that needed rebuilding that did make it harder to start but did not require any more choke. Once going the performance was not there, you hit the gas and it took a while for anything to happen. It would idle but I had that turned up on the old worn carb.
I think back then most of the torque specs were measured in uga dugas and good enoughs and not using a torque wrench.
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Re: 12 volt conversion gone haywire
Nick_in_Manitou
03/27/24 08:05 PM
As someone who has recently started on a 1940 KC model pickup project and was about to ask this community if I should convert to 12 volts or not...this thread is amazing!
I don't know if I have figured out the answer, but there was a lot of interesting reading here.
The truck I am starting on has an alternator and a starter, but I don't know anything about them. There is not one usable wire in the whole truck, so rewiring will have to happen. I have rewired a couple of old vehicles in the past, but that was decades ago, so I will probably purchase a wiring harness from one of the vendors.
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Re: New guy with a 1940 KC project
Nick_in_Manitou
03/27/24 06:19 PM
Tony,
I think that is what I will do - at least at this stage. My current plan is to make a driver out of it, but not do anything that would prevent the truck from being restored to original in the future. Money I don't spend on a reproduction floor pan that won't be noticed would be better spent elsewhere at this point.
Nick
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Re: 6V battery draining
Tiny
03/27/24 11:49 AM
Put a full charge on the battery and take it to an auto parts store. They all have testers and will test your battery for free in most cases. You also have the option of buying an old analog style battery tester for around $30.
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Re: HELP! Clutch Issues
JEC51
03/27/24 03:56 AM
Yes, thanks. I'm pretty much there except for the flywheel and clutch, so I guess I need to change those and hope for the best. John
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Re: 36 Throw out bearing
Chipper
03/26/24 08:10 PM
Clutch pedal rattle can be an indicator of worn pedal shaft/bushings. If the pedal moves side to side more than a tiny bit the bushings might need to be replaced.
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Re: Help, locating 1936 Headliner
WildernessTruck
03/26/24 04:30 PM
Great Ideas... Thank all of you for your Suggestions..... I will be trying some of them in the months ahead... right now I am working on the suspension, brake lines & wiring... will get to the interior this spring....
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Re: Vin location
Tiny
03/26/24 11:32 AM
If the number on your title doesn't follow that configuration, the truck may have been titled by the ENGINE number. That will be found stamped into a flat area on the engine block just behind the base of the distributor. The data plate is pretty easy to find if it's still there. I'd wager the VIN is the engine number. Many/Most states used the engine number through 1955. At any rate Ole is right on about the locations. You may have to scrape away some crud to see it, I did on my 38. If the engine is missing or has been changed you'll have to contact your state licensing authority and get the truck re-titled.
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Re: prepped and started my engine
tonyw
03/26/24 08:33 AM
While you have that part of the engine apart it would be advisable to make sure that nozzle and the oil gallery behind it are clean, they are known the block up and not lubricate the timing gears. Tony
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