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The time has come for me to sell this 1931 Chevrolet Independence. It will start, run, drive, and stop. I last drove it in October of 2021 for a VCCA Packerland Fall Tour in Wisconsin. I have since relocated to Phoenix, Arizona and found it is not an ideal place to drive one of these and the time has come to sell it. It is currently in storage near Sheboygan, Wisconsin. I rebuilt almost everything from the engine, transmission, cooling system, fuel system, brakes, and some electrical. The roof was re-upholstered a few years back. I rebuilt the engine and fired it up back in 2014. The history on this car is that it has been in my family since the early 1960's when it belonged to my dad & uncle in high school. It was parked in the late '60's with a cracked cylinder head. I began reviving it in 2007 until 2014 when I got it back on the road.

I rebuilt the engine, with aluminum pistons instead of cast iron, the mains & rod bearings were babbited poured and line bored. I reused the stock camshaft and crank. The cylinder head I located in California and had some cracks stitched near a valve seat and water jacket.

This car will come with extra parts, spares, and a 1932 block. I will provide a notebook diary, all receipts, invoices, literature, and specialty tools (included an authentic rear brake drum puller tool).

I installed a third LED brake lamp in the rear window which also displays turn signals from an aftermarket switch I installed on the steering column.

The rebuilt cylinder head has hardened seats installed so you can run on regular & premium pump gasoline.

My asking price is $16,500

That's all I can think of right now and not sure if I will post and ad in the Generator & Distributor Magazine as I need to get this sold soon! Please send me private messages or post questions for all to see.

Thank you,
Jon

The rear fenders are 1/2 ton only. '31 and '32 are the same and different than either 1931 or 1932 passenger. That also includes the front fenders, running boards, side splash aprons.

The guts of the 1939 head light are very different from the1937. Because the lamp body is fixed to the fender the lights are adjusted by moving the reflector only. There are ittle openings in the light body to accomplish this....

My Buddy, Joe, welded up the broken lug on my block. I re-drilled it and tapped new threads. I used a "time-sert" thread repair on the other "suspect" bolt hole.
I'll see if I can post some pictures in another appropriate thread.

Mike

Kerry,
Welcome to the forum. Great looking car.

Mike

Note the OP is in Austria.

1 ton truck stored well good drive train woods fare 4023044203

Mine was painted over as well. I was unsuccessful in removing the paint without also removing the factory paint. I put a reproduction tag on my car and keep the original in the glove box.

Since it hasn’t been mentioned, if you haven’t tried it out it is wiser not to until it has been checked over.

The town and country horn story.

First They were never called town and country horns. When first introduced in 1939 Chevrolet called the set-up "Double-Duo" and consisted of the usual under hood pair of accessory trumpet horns plus a dash switch labled CITY - COUNTRY with a llittle flipper knob thar matched the wiper control knob in color and shape with a little tri-angle plate under the knob with City - Country marking for selection.. The city horn was the original horn mounted on the inake manifold and the country horns were the dual accessory horns.
The single city horn for "a courtesy" warning the the dual horns for "the open road".
Prior to this the single manifold mounted was discarded when the dual horns were installed,

For 1940,1941 and 1942 The set-up was different as these models came with dual horns of the smaller sea-shell type. In the city horn position one of the dual horns was shut off when "city" was selected.

While a cut-out switch could be installed for models prior to 1939 and the single horn be retained IT WILL NOT BE CORRECT FOR JUDGING,

Thursday, last day of the tour

What a great night's sleep I had! But when Dean took my blankie off, I realized that I missed a WHOLE DAY!! Dag nab it!! That boy is gonna pay dearly for that! Harumph!!@$%!

We went back to Tom Meleo's Ranch for breakfast, and yup, we got lost again! Ray Morey made it to the ranch okay so a phone call to him got us on the right track. They had a big breakfast laid out for us that was organized by Herb Sullivan. Thanks to the Meleo family for sharing their place with us again and thanks to Herb for the breakfast! See pic number 35 below.

From the Meleo Ranch, we drove to the historic Zalud house built in 1891. This is an amazing place that is truly a capsule in time. It has the original furnishings, pictures on the wall and knickknacks from the Zalud family. They were (and are!) very prominent citizens of the area. See pic number 36 below.

The next stop was the Porterville Historical Museum. A wonderful place filled with a whole lotta local historic items. They also have a bunch of antique carriages, equipment, and an old Chevy truck!! Yeah!! See pic numbers 38, 39, and 40 below.

The day ended with the big banquet dinner (Mexican food!!) where announcements were made and good food was consumed. Friends (new and old) said their goodbyes and gave vows to meet again at the next great VCCA 4 Cylinder tour!

All day, the strange little sound from my u-joint or clutch area chirped along. I felt Dean squirming and wondering what it is. Hee-hee. Unfortunately, that means that I'll probably experience exploratory surgery back at home. Sigh. But, on the whole, the week was fantastic and I am so glad to have met, mingled, and drove with my distant Chevy cousins and their caretakers. A GREAT bunch of vehicles and folks!

Friday, homeward bound.

On the road again! On the way back home, we stopped at a roadside tourist attraction in Goshen, CA. It was a good place to walk around, make a pit stop, and stretch a bit. They had a petting zoo in the back and a killer tree house for kids to climb in. See pic number 41 below.

That's it from this reporter!

Take care y'all and respect the rust! Lurch

RELATED QUESTION: Am looking at a '50 sedan delivery which shows Body No. CL 18669. Did sedan delivery bodies also come out of Cleveland Body Plant (same as wagons?)


CDP

Excellent photos showing a simple fix for one potential oil leakage spot.

Hi
I have a Carter W1 carburettor that has 510 stamped in the base, can some one tell me what it is off please
Brian

If it is only "soft solder" (lead/tin) you dont need to have a fire near the tank, heat the soldering iron a safe distance upwind of the tank then take the hot iron to the tank. I have even used an electric soldering iron as there is no sparks in a properly maintained iron. Using a fire near fuel often ends in sadness.
Tony

Cab Fresh works wells for me in tractors and semis, although I will tell you once they get in and fall in love with the place you will never get rid of them no matter what. Some trucks I have no problem with, and then they are full in the truck beside them. On the farm I have no end to the food for them so it is even harder. I have one grain truck they love even if I use it multiple times a week. They even chewed the rubber fuel line until they got to gas (which was a problem once I started it unknowingly) and I had just drive it a couple of days prior. I’ve never had them in the 35 Chev truck, but I use it daily and it is left wide open in the shed (windows down and all) so hiding isn’t as easy.

Good job, Jeff.

Pooch,
I have a '35 Standard parts car in the woods. The parts are cheap but the removal price is $5.00 per tick and chigger.
I am in Missouri, sorry I don't know where Barnegat is.

Mike
573 864 6539

Thanks to ALL, for the responses.
Randy

looking for rear door panels and lower armrests 1938 chevy master deluxe 2dr sedan, just need to be in good enough shape that i can re-cover them. Some pictures would help me in case I need to try to make them.
Thanks in advance Dale larsen

Headlighte I sent you a PM

1935 Standard Hood Ornament "Eagle". Just rechromed with NOS mounting hardware. Price is 349.00 plus 20.00 shipping.

Dean, thank you for the information. Art, We have been trying to get this motor to run right for many months. I am afraid we have reached the the point where we need someone physically there that knows these motors.

Hello all. I am usually on the 1950 page. Anyway, I swapped an engine in my '50 and I have a 3-speed from a '56 Belair. The transmission has only about 60K miles. I don't need it and will swap for parts or "something". If someone does need one, let me know. I don't just want to junk it.

If you do not want to rebuild yourself, get a professional. It might cost a little bit more but it will be much better in the long run. I've just had a nightmare with a "backyard" mechanic telling me he knew what he was doing. Getting it done right the first time will save you time and money.