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Gene & Tiny,

Thanks for keeping me straight on the water pump evolution in the 1937 - 1938 engines. I knew there was an evolution but could not remember the timing.

I found the November 1937 Service Bulletin. It includes the new features on the 1938 models. It clearly states that the 1938 pump is still the oiler type water pump but it is 1/2" longer than the '37. My assessment is that the engineers were trying to improve pump bearing life by putting more distance between the bearings.

That change was obviously not successful. So the sealed bearing pump was introduced during the 1938 production year. As Gene noted it became the service replacement pump for both lengths the oiler type pumps. As I learned the hard way, you need to change the fan when you use the sealed bearing pump on a 1937 engine with the original shorter oiler type pump.

we will look into that and thanks for the info.

The kits might need fine tuning by a shop. The kit for my ‘46 needed alterations because the seat springs and padding differed in size. My guess is that is a common problem?

City: WELLINGTON

State: Ohio
Price: $25
210A Atlas mirror, unused
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$25 plus $10 shipping
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Thanks
Roy

The point always goes to the front.

That was the way the original GM Hydramatic was and it had no Park position. The 1940 Oldsmobile was the first arto have a fully automatic transmission with no clutch pedal and first to have a shift qudrant. That is what GM thought was best at that time.

Chevrolet promoted that it was easier to rock the car back and forth when stuck in snow with low next to reverse.

That posiition changed when Ford and Studebaker went to the Borg Warner automatic transmission with Park above neutral in 1951.

In 1957 Chevroet had Power Glide Reverse a the bottom and Turbogdlide at the top.
In 1958 bothj were a the top

Same for Buicks auto. transissions.

If you turn the engine backwards the starter will usually disengage.

I need a 1949-50 chevy gas tank. Thanks, oldie62-Greg

Getting ready to install the foot step onto right rear fender on '32 5 window coup. Got new fenders and didn't keep the old one for pattern duh! Can anyone tell me the exact location and if any reinforcement or bracing is required? Thanks

Had the same problem with my '32 head. "hairline" cracks around valve seats. Engine was completely rebuilt and water drained to oil pan just sitting. Fortunately the shop stood behind their work. Found a local gentleman with a ton of old Chevy parts and he had a new unused head (really) which is on the car now and it runs perfect. The cracks on yours appear bigger than what I had and mine leaked.

Looking for a rebuildable Rochester B carb for a 1954 or later truck with manual choke. Price under $100 preferred. No damaged junk or missing parts.
Please include shipping price.

Thanks

Payment by personal check s prefered.......will send PM

Kerry,
I did the same thing. Tried hand striping, then discovered the stencil.
Piece of cake. Finesse Pinstriping.
Randy

Might! How much? My email is tuebelhor@uebelhor.com if you want to send me more info

Contact Gary Wallace at 20schevyparts.com to see if he has one. They also do come up at swap meets occasionally. Figure out which side you need (drivers or passenger side) and put an add in the "parts wanted" section of this forum. There is a difference between '27, and '28. The '27 is slightly curved inward just above the base whereas the '28 is straight.

Art

I do not know about an entire distributor, but you should be able to put a Pertronix set up into your distributor. I have seen a u-tube segment where the owner used modern components to modify an original dist. to electronic. I have a '28 4 cylinder that has an Autolite distributor with a vacuum advance mounted in it. The engine was rebuilt by a PO and I have not started it.

Art

Hello I sent you a email and a message here about the parts you have for sale my email is ingrls1@bellsouth.net

55 runs ??

i have never taken my car over 45 and even at 45 was not comfortable
modern traffic and crazy drivers. all city streets

That is what was on my 1950 216 when I got it. Split manifold with the stock muffler and pipe and the second pipe with a glasspack. It sounded great!

You are welcome!
Good luck and looking forward to seeing your results.

I hear ya. I'll spend some time shimming and measuring and trying to ensure clearances. If this is an excessive in futility and I'm out $100 bucks and a couple of hours that's ok. The car isn't drivable now and if it's not after I throw this cap on I'm not really losing much. If it gets me on the road for even a hundred miles that's cool also. I don't plan on this being a long term fix if it works, just something to have a little fun before I start tearing things apart.

thanks chev nut ill have to find a shop repair manual

Thanks for the feedback.... I think I will use corn head grease... it has worked very well for me lubing steering boxes and enclosed ball knuckles on 4x4 front axels... It has a medium consistency... not as thick as wheel bearing grease and softer and flows better in colder weather... thicker than 120 W rear end oil..... Great advice about only doing the bottom 2/3 or 3/4 of the cable.....

I like it!! Are those headers from Hedman or Dougs?

Mike

I assume you are talking about the clips that keep the door handles and window cranks in place. Your local auto parts store might carry a universal door handle tool that is very inexpensive. It might be worth a try too get the tool locally and try it, rather than the hassle of mail order and possibly having to return it.
Good luck.

Mike