Re: Fixing my Dad's 1929 Chevy - Its a Surprise!
WildernessTruck
03/28/24 03:45 PM
Susan.... here is a copy of that posting ..... about starting an old Chevy that has been sitting for years.... I followed Chip's advice in this article... when I started a 1934 Chevy, that had been sitting outside neglected for 50+ years..... it started up just fine and has been licensed and on the road ever since..... copy this and give it to the 'car guys' that will be working on your dad's car... Very nice thing you are doing for your Dad.... helping him realize his Dream....
There are a number of posts here about preparing to start a long-idled old Chevy. I'd spend a few hours using the search function in this chat room and reading what others say about it. One of the posts is here, but there are many others like it:
I recommend that you proceed as follows (assuming that the engine is in the car):
-- Remove oil pan. Check inside of crankcase for cleanliness, rust, debris, moisture, etc. --Using a small mirror and flashlight, check that oil galleries above main bearings are clean and free of debris. Examine cylinder walls to confirm there is no rust and that they are free of scoring and wear. -- Remove one rod bearing cap, being careful to note the position of the shims so they can go back in the same places. Inspect rod journal and bearing. If they're new/resurfaced, it will be obvious. Reassemble and torque to correct torque, reinstall cotter pins. -- Same drill with one main bearing, looking for condition and cleanliness. -- While oil pan is off, lubricate cylinder walls, rod and main bearings, piston pins, camshaft bearings, cam lobes and lifters with clean motor oil, reinstall oil pan with new gasket. -- Remove side cover, inspect push rods and lifters and check for rust/cleanliness. Lubricate lifters, reinstall side cover with new gaskets as needed. -- Remove valve cover. Check for cleanliness, rust, etc. Lubricate rocker arms, valve stems and push rods with Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). Leave cover off for now. -- Remove spark plugs and squirt one teaspoonful of MMO into each cylinder. This will act as a penetrating oil and both free up any sticky rings and lubricate the pistons for startup. -- Check that plugs are clean, reinstall. -- With engine either in car or in test stand, lubricate starter, generator and water pump, check fan belt tension, etc. -- Fill engine to full mark on dipstick with good quality oil, ensure radiator is topped off. -- Remove distributor and using a slotted piece of 1/2" round stock to engage the oil pump, turn oil pump with an electric drill until oil pressure is raised to normal. Continue running oil pump with drill until oil is observed seeping from all rocker arms. Run the oil pump for at least five minutes to fill all the galleries and oil reservoirs with oil. Reinstall distributor and reset timing. -- Crank the engine over slowly by hand and check that all rocker arms and valves are operating. Statically check the valve clearances. Reinstall valve cover. -- Prime the fuel system to fill the carburetor bowl with fuel. -- You're now ready for a short test run. (Don't be alarmed if there is heavy smoke for the first ten seconds on startup -- that's the MMO burning off). If the engine really is freshly rebuilt, you don't want to rev it up too far above idle or to run it for more than a minute or so the first time. The new bearings can generate a lot of heat until they wear in a bit. The idea is to run it for a minute or so, shut down, check for leaks/problems, wait an hour or so, start again and run a bit longer, shut down/cool down, etc. After 2-3 short runs like that, you can extend them and then begin driving the car gently. The main point is to avoid overheating the engine when it's brand new.
Sorry to rattle on for so long, but I hope that's the info you're looking for. One final recommendation: On the day you plan to start it up, find someone in your area who has done this before and ask them to stop by and give you a hand -- you can learn a lot from the voice of experience. Good luck with it!
All the Best,
Chip
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Re: Correct coil
Skidplate
03/28/24 03:08 PM
Any of us who has tried to troubleshoot this issue has found themselves unable to completely explain what they did to fix the problem. With me it was... keep tweaking things until it finally stopped happening.
For example, I adjusted the valves AGAIN until I finally got them right. I had to get the engine completely up to temperature. Not just in the garage but drive it around for awhile. Then pull it in and adjust. That made a big difference.
The modern fuels DO NOT like old cars. I could not keep the fuel from percolating out of the carb. Worked fine when cold... wouldn't start when hot. I finally installed a return line just past the fuel pump back to the gas tank. That helped a lot with cooling the fuel but I had to use an electric fuel pump that many people don't want to use. It also requires 12v... equally an issue if you still use 6v.
I adjusted the float down a little. Equally helped a little.
I installed a little thicker insulating gasket under the carb and a heat shield (sheet metal) between the exhaust manifold and carb.
I made sure my fuel line from the pump to the carb was away from any heat source.
I also added at least two fuel filters between tank and carb. One before the pump and one before the carb. There is no way you'll ever get all the crap out of your tank so you need to filter a lot.
And finally there are lots of people who will say that this is all unnecessary. All you need to do is tune everything correctly exactly the way it was built and it will work great. Well all the best luck with that, but it hasn't worked that way for me.
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Re: Anyone in the Area of the Barry Weeks parts Auction?
Nick_in_Manitou
03/28/24 02:09 PM
Thanks for the response, Tiny.
I had heard that Barry was well known to the Stovebolt community and saw the discussion there, but my membership over there has not been approved yet (applied a few days ago), so I hoped that someone here might be going.
I am interested in at least a couple of lots.
Nick
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Re: 41 Special Deluxe
Mr87Monty
03/28/24 12:53 PM
I have a 41 Master Deluxe with the original 216 and it has a Carter carb, not the original but the same model that came on it. It needs some choke (1/4 - 1/2) until it is warms up. Once warmed up it will idle without any throttle.
In the past on this car I have had a bad coil cause the car to require more throttle to keep it going and as it would stall at low RPM.
In another instance it had a carb that needed rebuilding that did make it harder to start but did not require any more choke. Once going the performance was not there, you hit the gas and it took a while for anything to happen. It would idle but I had that turned up on the old worn carb.
I think back then most of the torque specs were measured in uga dugas and good enoughs and not using a torque wrench.
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Re: 1932 deluxe 2 door Coupe
Stovblt
03/27/24 09:39 PM
Hi Tom
Welcome to the best vintage Chevrolet forum on the internet!
If you car, and in particular the cooling system, is in decent shape, your car is a GREAT candidate for parades.
I used to run my 1929 sedan in parades with no issues at all.
I'm sure you would get lots of attention. 🙂
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Re: 12 volt conversion gone haywire
Nick_in_Manitou
03/27/24 08:05 PM
As someone who has recently started on a 1940 KC model pickup project and was about to ask this community if I should convert to 12 volts or not...this thread is amazing!
I don't know if I have figured out the answer, but there was a lot of interesting reading here.
The truck I am starting on has an alternator and a starter, but I don't know anything about them. There is not one usable wire in the whole truck, so rewiring will have to happen. I have rewired a couple of old vehicles in the past, but that was decades ago, so I will probably purchase a wiring harness from one of the vendors.
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Re: New guy with a 1940 KC project
Nick_in_Manitou
03/27/24 06:19 PM
Tony,
I think that is what I will do - at least at this stage. My current plan is to make a driver out of it, but not do anything that would prevent the truck from being restored to original in the future. Money I don't spend on a reproduction floor pan that won't be noticed would be better spent elsewhere at this point.
Nick
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Re: 6V battery draining
Tiny
03/27/24 11:49 AM
Put a full charge on the battery and take it to an auto parts store. They all have testers and will test your battery for free in most cases. You also have the option of buying an old analog style battery tester for around $30.
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Re: HELP! Clutch Issues
JEC51
03/27/24 03:56 AM
Yes, thanks. I'm pretty much there except for the flywheel and clutch, so I guess I need to change those and hope for the best. John
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Re: 36 Throw out bearing
Chipper
03/26/24 08:10 PM
Clutch pedal rattle can be an indicator of worn pedal shaft/bushings. If the pedal moves side to side more than a tiny bit the bushings might need to be replaced.
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Re: Help, locating 1936 Headliner
WildernessTruck
03/26/24 04:30 PM
Great Ideas... Thank all of you for your Suggestions..... I will be trying some of them in the months ahead... right now I am working on the suspension, brake lines & wiring... will get to the interior this spring....
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