To keep things straight. LP is the original 28 1 ton we are trying to keep near original (by popular demand) so I have a "hall pass" on this site to build a hooptie from the remains.. P1 (pile one) will be the donor truck on front of the trailer loaded in Kansas 22 degree weather. P2 (pile two) will be the donor truck mounting P1. What is the average Chevy litter size? Today was unload both and start disassembly of P1. Decades of Kansas dust and weather left no wood usable but the metal and frames are in solid shape. Of course EVERYTHING is stuck and tons of dirt. So far we have decided P1 will be the hillbilly truck as the tree grown around the frame will be custom carved and part of the build (love my job!). AND IT HAS A TITLE in sellers name. Here are day 1 loading and today parting out. Looks like motor and tranny have to come out as a unit. Back to the shop. Later.

PS thinking about changing user name to Gulf Coast Rustoholic unless Dean has copyright LOL. Phish

Everyone needs 2 of each! I find myself browsing crate engines occasionally and wish I had a spare car that wasn't rare to build up lol.

I have a friend with a 1938 Canadian Pontiac Coupe like mine (built from a Chevy at the factory) and he is buying another 1938 Chevrolet frame so he can build up one chassis for driving but can then restore and keep the original chassis and drivetrain and can drop the body back onto it. He's in his 30's so has lots of energy still...

P1 motor a rebuildable core at best. Cam is flat but scored a nice pan, correct pickup filter, correct fasteners etc for LP. We think P1 was a stake bed with running board vertical flaps. Motor tranny out but still stuck. I bet bearings are toast but the block has little or no wear in cylinders. Done for the night. Stephen

Love the tree art!!! Glad you are going to incorporate it into the build. Authenticity rules!

Looks like you also scored a great front bumper for LP from P2!

Too much fun! Dean

Fired up the steam cleaner before shower time but dogs not helping. Bust engine down in AM.

I am not a 4 cyl guy but from what I see of the insides looks really good. No bones in there so can't blame the dogs for lack of interest.

We found JIMMY HOFFA!!!! He was stuck in P1 bell housing SO that is why the motor was stuck. Cam is good so that means it must have bent rocker arms or something in valve train. 4 stuck valves, Boyd cleaned it and reworked it but still will use as a core. The motor spins nice and has a clean bottom end. Cleaner than the running LP. Pics tonight.

Air compressor in shed never sounded right after Laura and it quit on the dirtiest project in history. There was a mouse skeleton in the water jacket of the head! Had to come thru top of radiator and tunnel into the engine. Hoffa, Scarecrow, Tinman, Lion, Dorothy, all in P1. Who will be in P2? BUT cam is fine and lower motor cleaner than LP. So we will break it down and hone etc. The vac tank even worked but still having Chipper rebuild. Also moved P2 headlights crosseyed over to P1. Clampett look. SLH

Today was a slower pace as help had to go to paying job. Started on P2 (pile 2) : Good: cowl light lense, 37k miles showing and top of motor looks great, front spoke wheels and 2 piece bearings good. Dry spokes but will try to soak. Bad: not one split rim is good. Rear seal leaked and goo all over that brake system passenger side. Try to pull cowl and motor tomorrow. P1 motor looks good as well and have 2 rims that could be welded. What kind of grease fittings are these? Found a telegraph insulator. Money? How about that heater flap. Patent pending?????

Lurch's rear brakes looked like that too. After I cleaned up the brake area, I replaced the outer felt bearing seals with neoprene ones: SKF 16406. That prevented any bearing grease getting into the brake area. The new seals fit nicely inside the original seal housing plates.

I did not bother to pull and replace the inner axle bearing seals. Okay, I'm lazy. The original ones (felt) are still in there. I don't care if a little bearing grease leaks into the differential area and mixes with the oil.

Then again, I only drive Lurch less than 200 miles per year. If I drove him more, I might be motivated to mess with the inner seals too. Maybe not. ;-)

Regarding the strange grease fittings. They are called Alemite grease fittings. You can get an adapter that has a zerk fitting on one end and the Alemite female fitting on the other. I think Chevy changed from Alemite fittings to zerk fittings sometime in the early 1930s.

Cheers, Dean

Thanks for the info. After learning about design as I pulled the wheels off P2, the easiest path for a parade hillybilly truck is to run the original drivetrain/suspension. We have an abundance of parts to clean and use on both LP and P1HB. THEN we can weld/rig Iron Duke modern suspension on P2. A single keyway on a tapered rear shaft would likely fail if you put a 140HP motor in there. Just as I was warned on my first day here. Glad I joined here instead of Stovebolt etc. Saved my life. LOL Stephen

Keep us informed on your progress including the setbacks. Those learning experiences can help others as they progress down the preservation/restoration road.

Love this thread even though I do not have or want a Chev (or any other make) of this era. Looks like quite a challenge and I admire you for all the effort your putting into this project.

Dick

Don't dare to buy a 20s Chevrolet! You likely will be infected with a fatal disease. I own 5 of them. Sorta like marriage you love them even when they let you down. Fixing the problem makes it even better.

I'm infected, but the disease is in check. I only have two.

Lack of storage space is my limiting factor. Otherwise, I'd be the owner of a 1920s Chevy boneyard. ;-)

Lovin' the era! Dean

Slow day working alone, the most verbal day of my life working alone on P2 fasteners. But the good news is bore wear on P1 motor is 4 thou on worst hole and 2, 3 thou etc on the rest. Ball hone and ring with a rebuild head, carb, vac tank etc (Chipper), we rolling. Steam clean both chassis tomorrow maybe as I have 3 lifts coming to get boat house off pool. Lots of hammer use. Phish

Hey Phish,

Here's a neat video about loosing REALLY STUCK rusted bolts: Old school method for removing rusted manifold bolts

Also, you can heat the bolt with a propane torch and melt a candle on it. The wax will wick into the threads and help lubricate the bolt.

Cheers, Dean

Well I had to come in for lunch and have a beer, maybe 3 or more. All I wanted was a hillbilly truck. I apologize for claiming Jimmy Hoffa was in P1 bell housing. You aint gonna' believe this. I have never pulled an oil pan on a motor that looked like this. Could be the cure for the Kung Flu???? BUT the flywheel teeth are good and will clean. Looks like the throwout bearing is a graphite washer??? So good thing P2 was near free. Guess I will start with a small shovel, then blower (Compresor sill broke) and then the steam cleaner. But the top of the motor looks decent. More tonight. Stephen

Happy Birthday Rustoholic. I can ship you this mouse mulch!!!!

Thanks for the B-Day wishes, Stephen. I might be getting older, but I refuse to grow up. Also, thanks for the birthday present offer, but I'll pass on the mouse mulch. ;-)

Yup, the original throw out bearing is a carbon disk. I have replaced this in both of my trucks with a newer, ball bearing type of bearing that the Filling Station sells. This way, I'm not worried about the carbon disk overheating when the clutch is pressed down for a long-ish period of time.

Cheers, Dean

P2 (PILE 2) is living up to its name. Pan rotten, rod bolts rusted, motor still stuck, oil pump & dizzy froze. Using this motor teardown as a research project as P1 motor seems to be a freshen job. Learned that cam gear is fiber and took off a tooth messing around. Crank pully came off (thanks Chipper). Rod bearings had 100 thou spacer and only one had a single brass shim. They still have babbit. Next up is get the cam gears off, crank/cam out etc. Good news is 4 solid but dry spoke wheels, nice flywheel, guages have a shot, front apron metal, lots of brake parts and a nice frame. I guess it was worth hauling home.Clutch pad still has logo and worlds fatest rings! Shop is a wreck.

Just made my first Filling Station order. Lots of goodies ordered. Stephen

Howdy,

Here's a link to an interesting discussion that includes changing the rear end ratio in the one ton trucks for greater speeds.

MPG discussion for 26-28 one ton trucks

Enjoy! Dean

Had to stop for a little more Laura cleanup but spent a little time at the shop debris field. I see no way to get a cam gear off without destroying it. The P2 motor is still stuck with only 1 piston and the crank out. Will try heat and a pipe wrench to get cam to turn and come out. That one is a mess for sure. Perfect storm, P1 motor had mouse stuff in bellhousing ruining all that, P2 had a complete crankcase of mouse stuff ruining rotating stuff. Betwwen the two, will get a driveline together. Phish

I just learned from Chipper the nice LP truck has Zenith 1925 carb BUT P2 has the correct Carter with linkage bracket on starter. Planning of being at his house with a load of stuff Friday AM for him to rebuild. LP will get the correct 28 stuff back on it. P1 has a Tillotson aftermarket so prolly' not used by us. Stephen

Regarding the cam gear. The cam can be ground with the gear still on. There is enough space between the first lobe and the grinding wheel. These gears are one of the hardest to source items for the fours and early sixes. If at all serviceable its best to leave it on there. Art

Thanks for that info. The P1 motor spins nice and I will leave that cam gear alone. P2 is still frozen and cam or lifters will not budge as well as one piston. Soaking in MM oil for a week now. Stephen

Verlyn Husman has had 50 cam gears cut from aluminum recently. They are available. Work on several years of 4 cylinder as well as early 6. Difference is in the thickness not number of teeth or pitch.

I dont see any way to pull that gear without damage, especially on a froze motor. Here you can see the center of what is left after ripping the gear material off. This is the P2 froze everything motor. Going to put some heat to it Sat. when my working man help is back. Trying to save what we can for parts. Stephen

Use a die grinder or Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to score the hub as much as possible. Then use a cold chisel from the end, not side, to split the hub open for removal. Cut at the key way to minimize the depth of cut needed. Finding a new key should not be a problem.

Mike

Have a truck load of junk heading to Chippers in the AM. Phish

Sounds like major fun!

Say hi to Chipper and his wife for me. I really enjoyed meeting them at the South Lake Tahoe 55th Anniversary meet in 2016.

Cheers, Dean

It will be interesting to meet Spyphish and see the so called "junk". It is my belief that no old Chevy parts are "junk" just resting in retirement.

It is people like Dean that make the VCCA the club it is. His vehicles may not be #1 rated but attract more attention that those over restored trailer queens. I expect Spyphish's to do the same.

Just an update on this, with some additional tuning and leaning out the mixture, I am now averaging right around 10 - 11 MPH (up from ~9). Once my overdrive project is complete, I'm hoping to get in the neighborhood of ~14 MPG, we'll see!

-Tyler

Well worth the trip over to Chippers. GREAT people. Learned a lot and saw a lot (they got a lot!!). Dropped off 3 core carbs and picked up 2 correct rebuilt ones and he tested and repaired the P1 vac tank. Got some pics of his cars for help with ours. Also grabbed an Iron Duke motor with 14 miles on it that he hauled back from Az. for me. His wife made me lunch for the road and gave me a sample G&D mag. Novenber 2017 and as we flip thru it, on page 17 there I am, the only non Chevy vehicle in the book. Joliet Jake Blues

Thanks Chipper and Ms.

PS Santa stopped by while I was in Texas. Parts starting to roll in.

It was indeed a pleasure to help you get another old Chevy on the road. Preservation of these little parts of automotive history is what it is all about.

Banged the piston out of P2 motor. Labeled 40 over and will need a bore to use. P1 motor on the other hand is very nice labeled 50 over. Rods have shims left to tighten and babbit looks ok. Will clean, hone and reassemble. One motor has 3 solid rings and the other has a slotted oil ring?? Shifter has one rod unstuck and the other two moving using the torch to heat. Both tranny gears look usable. It's a marathon not a sprint. A piece of babbit on the outer edge of one rod broke off. Any babbit engine builders near SW louisiana? Thanks

Ever onward! ;-)

Here's an interesting thread that discusses a DIY rebabbiting of a connecting rod: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/283994/chevrolet-national-1928-ab-engine-bearings.html

I seem to remember that someone 'fixed' one rod's bearing that had cracked babbit, but can't find the post right now.

I might have of new OEM set of new rings. Will check my stash and get back to you.

Cheers, Dean

P1 motor, the free one, has a broken edge babbet as pic shows. Also one rod has a different part number. P2, the stuck motor has 4 matching rod part numbers. However the 2nd numbers range from 450s to 460s???? Is that a bob weight, something to do with balance? Learning as we go.

I don't know any babbitt pourers in Louisianna but if it's just the rod, Gary Wallace and/or the Filling Station will do an exchange, usually about $250/rod and often have undersized bearings if the crank journals have been ground.

-Tyler

Many VCCA members have used Paul's Rod and Bearing in Kansas City area. https://www.paulsrodandbearing.net/
I have used them several times and have been satisfied with the work. Also for babbitt work at Harkin Machine Watertown South Dakota. .

There is an engine rebuilder in Baytown, TX that does babbitt engines. They take a long time!! I have an engine that has been there for nearly 6 months for babbitt bearings only. They do good work if you can stand the delay.

Started juice disc brake test fit pn P1HB. Steering stop will need to be unbolted but I think when I get the rust coat off the 92 year old axle they may work. I see no way to keep backing plate without mods but just started. The "Duke" motor is 4 inchs longer due to fan clutch. So flex fan or notch the firewall since there is not one stick of wood on this truck, other than the spokes. Phish

We have the juice brake hardware designed but going back stock. Will shelf it in case we do something with 3rd truck. Dropped P1HB rear axle assembly to start cleaning brake levers an axle hinge. Had to torch a few pieces so spare truck handy. Have 1 spoke wheel out to dry after an 8 day soak. Turned it black. Phish

Had a nice as can be in 2020 Christmas. Did spend about 8 hours on the rear brake rods and put the rear axle assembly back in place. Lots of tapping, soaking and down right hammer time. Start on front today. Brake rods, adjusters and steering takedown, clean and grease. Merry Christmas

P1HB: The hardest part is the crumbling cotter keys and stuck pins on brake rods. Pulled most of the front brake rods which were bent from some "stump jumping" in the past. Chased threads and cleaned shackels. Both front brake hinge levers as well as cross rod are froze. They come off next. Pulled gas tank for cleaning, love the frame stump. Tried a test rivet on a new pad. Need to go deeper as per Chipper. Thanks

Have the final spoke wheel in soak tank. We hope to have P1BH as a roller soon. Sending both P1 and P2 motors off for check out and rebuild. Aint gonna' to be cheap but needs to be reliable. SLH

Still need to patch shop roof. Thanks Laura

I love that stump too!

Watch out Phish or you'll end up as our 1928 one ton truck expert!

Ever onward! Dean

Expert, prolly not but we have a LOT of parts to learn on. P1HB has grease cups on each side for the rear axle bearing. P2 and the LP have zerts. Which is better you think? We carry a cordless grease gun. Phish

Phish,
I have two more '28 trucks for you when you get your arms around these.

Mike

UNCLE!!! 28 meter pegged. BUT June 21 Great Race lunch stop is in Rolla, 90 miles south of you. So meet us for lunch and get some parts back. Love to meet you. Not sure which theme we will be but class clowns for sure. FBI, Ghostbuster, Blues Brothers, BAMA Trooper OR Beverly Hillbilly

While contemplating the rebuild of the P1 and P2 motors, here's an interesting thread that discusses modifying the water pump with new bearings: Modifying Chevy 4 banger water pump bearings

Cheers, Dean

Thinking about the junk that will be hanging off the HB truck. I think these caveman square wheel prototypes will look the part. Jed

How about a still?

;-) Dean

Typical Phish Phashon I found an old parts ebay guy within a 1.5 hour drive. Suppose to be an overhauled 28 motor by someone but using the scope showed outherwise. So we negotiated a parts deal and we beat the rain back. Looks like stop leak everywhere so will tear into it in a few. Went ahead and grabbed another transmission as well. WE GOT PARTS. If I can get a motor together out of the three, HB be running soon I hope. Phish

SCORE::: It has been overhauled. So far the bad is a filthy water jacket. The stains that looked like water leaks were melted spray copper gasket on the new head gasket. So far so good. Stock bore, no wear and Rusto sent me some standard OEM rings. New clutch and plate. If the bottom checks out I will be tickeled xless. Touch hone and new rings. Even painted the right color.

Ennie-Menee-Minee-MO This latest engine is named Halfa$$. (HA) The head is like new other than water jacket crud. This was a head rework, put on a stock short block with skirt expanders on 2 of the pistons. They missed the rear seal trough so just blew in a couple tubes of high temp red. It was the run on stand based on the stains. So what we have here is a "failure to comunicate", I mean quit buying used motors.

LP truck has a running engine, square head bolt on front, puffs smoke at shifts, pulls hard but load rattle of a bearing and leaky oil pan. We can fix that for around town trips, not cross country. No idea of bore, etc as not dismantled.

Pile 1 (P1) has spinning 50 over rotating assembly which I broke a piece of babbit of the side of a rod during disassembly. Rods have shims. Crank shows no "egg", stock journal size but head is pitted from decades of valve open in Albert, Ks. pop 166.

Pile 2 (P2) Totally froze due to mouse condos in crankcase, same Albert, Ks. Pistons show 40 over and block number matchs title. Some rods have shims and nasty crank does mic same as P1. Same pitted valve seats as P1 head.

SO, why not use a shimmed rod off the P2 motor with a 50 over P1 piston to replace the broken babbit? Touch hone and reassemble with nice HA head. WALLA 50 over P1 Hillbilly truck motor. Of course we will mic all the stuff at assembly. Then using HA motor and a P1/P2 head for total build of the final LP truck motor. UNCLE

Phish,
Have you noticed that the cylinder head, if original, has the engine number stamped on one of the machined surfaces for the manifold mounting. If it matters to you, it would be a reason to rebuild a matching number head instead of swapping.

Mike

I did not know that. Now you made a brain wrinkle! Who gonna' pay for 'dat? Remind me to tell you the story behind that quote one day. LOL Will look for those numbers on the heads today. We can't deal with this babbit stuff (and it's important) so loading a crate for J&M Engines in Mass. Phish

What is so wierd, the motor I picked up in Houston measures 5 thou under stock bore in holes 2,3 & 4. 1 has 6 thou wear (over stock) in line with the crank, stock on the sides. We are measuring in the wear area using 3.70 as stock, correct? 94mm =3.701 but 3 11/16" = 3.6875
All that plus the skirt expanders wigs me out. Sending to a pro.

P2 block/crank heading to J&M Machine as P1 crank no good. Installed new brake liners for HB truck. Trying to get a spot back in the shop for it today. I do not trust the wood spokes so will send them for rebuild. Jethro

Great news. P2 crank not cracked and .020 bent. Already straight. New brake liners, packed bearings and start on bed and seating this weekend. Rims sent to Calimers. Jed

Brakes are done. Have one steering knuckle to heat and service and under carriage is complete, Using clecos we began body assembly. Stitch welded broken fenders and are using the back wall off a car for our rear wall. We will cut our own wood using the LP truck as our pattern. Of course the "grown in frame" stump will remain. On deck is the rear deck......Jethro

Glad to see you still have plenty of supervision on hand. Of course that is between treats and belly rubs.

The only good thing about hurricane Laura is there is plenty of scrap to build the bed out of. First try was a cutup thinwall gate. That was not strong enough to hang stuff on. So we went with wood. Nothing bolted together yet, maybe today.

Bed about 75% and thanks to member Dave we have a steering wheel to work with. Phish

Found an old cypress bench in swamp, cut the legs down, perfect fit. Not going with doors so selling two nice skins. Phish

Restored the farmer heater and built the front floor. Stump staying of course as well as a home made mirror made many years ago..... Motor at J&M and wheels at Calimers. Jed

Stake bed underway and stump trimmed for seat. Now we start looking for junk to hang on it. Phish

Junk!

Not junk, personal treasures!

I suggest replacing the big hose clamp on the stump with baling wire.

Cheers, Dean

Good idea, better yet we have rusty barbed wire. Heading to a flea market to get more goodies. Fund raisers already asking about booking. Anyone feel free to comment on fixtures. Truck/car not perfect screen accurate but when you see it, you know what it is. Thanks, Jed.

OK P1 powerplant heading south. I requested NO paint so it will match our theme. Drop it in next week before Great Race. Jed

PS J&M aint cheap but pics of the build along the way and the equipment thay have is top shelf. I will not be scared to drive this or the LP truck anywhere.

Working on CLEVERLY HILLBILLY race car. 27 Chevy front cap on a 93 Benz 600 SEC. Fastest that metal ever went. 0 to 150 in 28 sec. HOOT

OMG, that's awesome!!!

You'll need to enter that in one of the Concours d'Lemons car shows. Worst of show, right there!!!

Go Phish! Dean

OK back on the HB truck. Hurricanes, USNATS, Lemons 24 has diverted our attention for sometime. SO we have both high dollar J&M engines here. We dropped P1 into the HB truck with its 4 speed. The front engine mount hole was shot so we cut in one from the doner chassis. Rebuilt steering box while motor was out. Keeping the original LP close to use for pattern IE fasteners etc. Put the milk lenses on it while in the shop. HB needs wiring, exhaust, fuel system, water pump rebuild etc. Phish

Looking good, Phish.

What grease are you putting into the steering box? There have been discussions about that in the forums. Most agree that you need a semi-fluid (self leveling) type of grease. Too thick to leak out of the pitman shaft, but fluid enough to not caviate and get into small nooks and crannies.

I use a mixture of 1/3 Mobil 600W and 2/3 John Deere Corn Head grease.

Cheers, Dean

Contact Steve Scott. See his contact information in your G&D.

glad to see you are back at the trucks

Will try that grease cocktail as we just shot the zert with the red stuff. Still better than the dry crud that came out.

PS. Not another storm in the Gulf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At Bowling Green Lemons race. Make 100 miles and cat convertor plugged. Another 89 and collant tank let go. Try again today. Jed