Hello, first a happy new year to all Today I worked a bit on my Chevy and opened the transmission, to see why it always scratches when changing gears. Can you even look at the pictures and tell me if the gears are in good condition? I think the 1st gear flanks are very rounded? I also found some metal shavings, I think copper? Can that be from the Synchronizer Rings? Thanks for help.
No, not yet. I must do this too, but my brother in law - the previous owner - means that some gears were worn-out. Now i would check this with a look inside. Upshift scratches almost allways, downshift is better. I´ve tested with a longer break between shifting, with gas between, fast, slow - nothing?!
Are you using a high viscosity lube? SAE 160 or 600W are thick like molasses or cool honey. The high viscosity lube helps to synchronize the gear speeds.
It was common for cars with the vacuum shift to wear out the syncronizers. This was because the vacuum assist would change the gears with more force than a manual linkage would. The most common problem would be grinding of the gears when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. Years ago we just replaced the complete syncronizer drum. They are almost impossible to find today and very expensive. Gear wear. If the edges or tips of the gear are worn or chipped a little it will not cause a problem. The wear that can cause excessive gear noise is when the tooth contact area is worn or rough. Also if the bushings in the cluster gear are worn....brass bushings.
@ chevynut - thanks for this information. I think for a better diagnosis i must disassemble the Transmission. With Synchroniser drum you mean Syncro and Sliding Clutch ? On this side they have also Transmission Synchronizer Rings Is it possible to restore the drum? Hmm,brass bushings? I think there are copper shavings?!
Today i took a second look. what i see makes me not happy. I think the countershaft gear and the 1st gear / reverse gear shows strong traces of pitting. These metal shavings on the first picture look a lot like brass! So Chev Nut is quit well and the bushings in the cluster gear are worn. The shavings it has crushed between the gears. Can you tell me what parts i must get for repair? As example on this side www.vapinc.comi need: WT242-8 / WT242-12 / WT242-50B Small Parts Kits, what would be even advisable? WT242-18 Synchronizer Rings?
Last edited by Alligator; 12/04/1911:56 PM. Reason: His Name is Chev Nut ;-)
I can't see all the gears that well but as far as the gears go it looks like you will need a cluster gear and shaft, First and reverse gear and 2nd speed gear. If the gear on the front shaft is bad you will also then need a main drive gear. And of course a syncronizing drum. These parts fit from 1940-1952 for the most part .
Hallo Stefan, ein gutes neues. Ja gerne, hab diese Woche noch Urlaub und Bock auf Schrauben gehabt. Aber mit diesen Teile katalogen verzweifele ich noch.
You mean i need the 2nd speed gear, too? Seems to be o.k.? The link in the posting above shows more detailed pictures.
Where can i get the right Numbers for my Parts? My Master Parts List 29-40 has not all numbers. I am missing Numbers i´ve found on my gear box at example yoke 591039 and cover 591026. Do i need the complete drum ore only the rings? Have you a idea where to get the parts?
Cluster gear 591074 - fits 1940-1953 - has the brass bushings like the original 591319 - roller bearing type, Would require proper shaft, needle bearings and thrust washers 3845201 - later replacement, comes with roller bearings, shaft and thrust washers. Fits 1940-1957.(best choice and may be easy to find.
first and reverse gear 591088 - fits 1940-1953
syncronizer drum complete 605020 fits 1940-1952
main drive gear (front shaft) 609741 - fits 1940-1952
second speed gear 591078 - fits 1940-1952
The front and rear ball bearings should also be replaced. available in modern
Good morning everybody. For me I guess the 1st question to be answered should be: Does a 1940 RHD car have the same tranny as a 1940 LHD car? I have never seen a RHD 1940 and dont know how the gearshift mechanism is transfered to the other side...
German beer? good, yes, indeed, but 1st bavarian beer (Munich) is better and 2nd actually I want to reduce my beer tank inside (belly) and dont drink beer...bad...but a MUST.
Hi Chev Nut, many thanks for help. Now we seemy Problem. No one from your numbers i can find in my Master Parts Price list 29-40? Do i need a PART INTERCHANGE List? Or another Part List? Filling has many, but wich one is the right one? CD´s DG-63,DG-64,DG-174,DG-175 or Books FS-21 DG-173 DG-91? I own too, the Shop Manual 1940 and Fisher Body Manual 39/40. Sorry for so much questions, but i´m very unsettled. When i go to Obsolete and type in 3845201 they bring me "Xref" this Numbers Competitor 266-8 Competitor 3817960 Competitor 3845001 Competitor 3845051 Competitor 3845201 Competitor 591319 according to your discription it is not the same as 3845201 i think? Competitor K331-11 Competitor WT-242-8A Competitor WT242-8A
@ Stefan - the tranny seams to be the same. The Shift Linkage is on the same side - Left!
Cluster gear is the the same as the counter gear. The numbers canged from what was printed in 1940. You will have a much better chance of finding the parts with the numbers I gave you as these were the last numbers used and were around for over 50 years, I don't know about the case but the side cover was on the left side for the US cars. That is the side the exhaust is on and what we call the drivers side.
With the RHD column shift cars I have seen the shift rods still connect on the left siode of the box but there is an extra set of linkages to connect that cross under the bell housing / gearbox joint, manual and automatic. More moving joints to wear and cause trouble. Tony
Hi, yes the side cover and the exhaust is on the left side too. I wonder that there are no buschings in the part lists, only on the 4 Speed transmissions?