VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Trucks and Vans Advance Design Tie Rod Ends

I'm working on the tie rod ends on my 1953 3/4 ton. I disassembled one of the ends last night. A diagram from the shop manual is posted on my website at Tie Rod End Assembly to show you what I am referring to.

Looking at pictures in the shop manual, it appears that the only difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton tie rod ends is that the 1/2 ton ball stud is pressed into the steering arm and the 3/4 ton stud is threaded and held in with a nut. The Master Parts manual gives the same part numbers for both 1/2 and 3/4 ton tie rod ends, except for the 3/4 ton ball stud. As far as anyone is aware, is this correct?

Replacement pieces are available for all of the interior parts of the tie rod end. However, the hole in the tie rod end housing, through which the stud extends, is pretty wallowed out on the edges ( a fuzzy picture is here ). Would the condition of this opening in the housing have a negative effect on the steering geometry? If so, does anyone know where I might get replacement housings that wouldn't be in as bad or worse shape than mine?

As a less desirable alternative (from an originality point of view), I know the vendors sell modern replacement ends which are one piece. All of the vendors except for Chevs of the 40s and Obsolete Chevrolet list the modern ends as being for 1/2 ton. Those two vendors list them as both 1/2 and 3/4 ton. Since I believe the original ends were the same except for the ball stud threading, I tend to believe those two vendors. Opinions?

Thanks in Advance. Keep on truckin'

The original tie rod ends (the hollow housing) is the same for 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks.Infact they are the same as passenger cars and trucks back to 1932.(except open coil spring cars).Its difficult to see just how bad yours are wallowed out but the hole does have one end where the opening is larger than the other.This is necessary to slip the ball in.If the ball won't pass thru the narrower end of the hole I would use them.The springs and cups are what retains the tie rod to the ball.I think I may have one or two of the ends-they are left and right--so let me know if you need them.Also theres nothing wrong with the modern one piece replacements and work well on a 3/4 ton as the studs are removeable.

Under "Verdors" I just posted some very good truck web sites (a couple with just phone #) that maybe can help you with parts or information.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Chevgene,
Thanks, this was exactly the info I was looking for. I'll make a decision tonight whether I want to try to rebuild my ends (well that sounds kind of strange, doesn't it ) or go with the modern type. If I decide to stay original and decide that mine are beyond use, I may holler at you off line for replacement housings. Thanks again.

Gator,
Thanks for the vendor listings. Got catalogs from most but there were some new ones to me on there. Thanks again.

Jeff, I checked my "stock" and have 2 right ends.In the 2003 Chevs of the 40s catalog-page 113 in the odds and ends dept. they have the new original ends listed at $35 each.(modern replacement ends at $28 each).If the right will do you any good I'll sell one cheap. also have the "guts"-springs etc. if needed.If the balls on the studs are not worn egg shaped the original should be fine.

Chevgene,
Thanks so much for your help and kind offer of parts. I looked at all of the pieces of the disassembled tie rod end last night. Ball studs are not only "egg shaped" but badly worn on the stud itself. I believe I will simply use the modern replacement tie rod ends. Thanks again.

Here is something to add about tie rod ends.
How to solve the egg shape ball problem.
Since Chevy did not make a part to just replace the ball, here is what I did. Model A bolt in
type drag link studs are the same 1" dia. ball.
You need to drill and drive out the old ball and have a machinist cut the Ford stud about 1000 or 2000 too tight & big to go in the hole. Then you heat the arm and drive in the stud quickly. Cut off the excess that will be sticking out and weld it. You can't use the weld in type only the bolt in ones have enough meat to cut down to size. Those balls run $4.50 ea. in the Mac's Antique Auto Parts Lockport NY