Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Larry30 Offline OP
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Hello everyone,

Iv posted here a few times and the help I got was amazing so thank you. This time before asking for help I have dug through pages and pages but haven’t found what I am looking for, or I’m just blind and putting in the wrong search. Also looking for advice on what route to take.

My motor dropped a rod cap last month and has caused some problems. From the time I heard the noise to getting it off the road was maybe 100 yards, I turned it around to go home and it locked up. Walked home and got the trailer. I have the motor pulled and almost completely tore down now. Just the crank and cam left to take out. Along the way I have found more than just the bent piston rod and crushed oil line after dropping the pan. I will see if I can get pictures to attach for any advice. But what I’m looking for is a place/shop to turn the crank and redo the babbitts on everything and what is needed to get that part of the motor right. If I can get those taken care of I have no problem putting the rest back together. Iv looked through most of Bearsfan315 stuff from his rebuild thread and found some helpful stuff but not who he used.

Looking through some posts Iv seen that inserts for the bearings may be a thing to replace the babbitts?? I figured if I’m going to rebuild it I might as well do it right the first time even if it’s down for a year or 2. I am now located in Abilene TX, willing to drive the motor up to 1000 miles one way or ship what’s needed if further than that.

Thank you for the help.

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Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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Paul's Rod and Bearing near Kansas City has done that work on a number of VCCA member's engines. There a couple that were not satisfied for some reason.
https://www.paulsrodandbearing.com/

Harkin-Arcola Babbitt Repair
Stillwater, MN 55082
George Gohlike, Owner
651-300-8785
is another that has rebabbitted several engines.


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The crank bearings are insert type and you can get them rebabbited via the “Filling Station” you will need the crank main journals resized and the redone main bearings line bored to match the new crank journals. I have a number or rebabbited rods available finished undersized. He crank rod journals would need to be ground under size to match.

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Larry...

Pauls Rod did my babbitt for the 1929, they are very good at what they do !! i mention them in my threads
most likely you will talk with Russ he is the MAN at Pauls, he handles most of the day to day stuff there. Great guy tons of knowledge and willing to answer questions and concerns. it was not long at all from the day i shipped till the day they were returned. just know that on the mains they turn them down undersized and then the block has to be line bored when assembled so they match the crank. they machine the rods and caps to your numbers and they do so with shims if you request them. they recommend no shims due to the modern material they use for Babbitt, which will out last us all :) i had them do mine with 3 shims in each :- and when you install make sure the caps go back on the same rod and in the same direction !! critical !!

here is link to the post and the pictures of the work: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/438261/re-1929-running-hot-overheating.html#Post438261

and my understanding from when i was doing mine was that on the 1929 there were no bearing inserts. you would have to do custom machining and customization on the block and crank. this is why i pulled my main bearings and sent them with the rods & caps to Pauls.


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the hardest part of it all was finding a shop that could line bore a 3 main bearing engine !! has to be an old school shop !!

as a side note there are a few shops you can send out the stuff to and have them do it all and rebuild the complete engine ready to rock... est $8-10k all you do is drop it back in the car when they are done.

Pauls can do the line bore for you as well, have to ship them your block, and they have shippers they deal with daily that they can recommend and get a cheaper rate. they do not do cranks if i remember correctly.


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Larry30 Offline OP
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Thank you all for the reply’s and information. That’s exactly what I was looking for. BearsFan315 I remember reading the thread of yours being redone, must have missed the part of where you sent it to. Iv used a few of your threads for figuring mine out along the way.

Luckily Kansas City is with in driving distance for me and I’m up in the Wichita are every few months to check on a rental house so I can roll that into one of those trips.

Appreciate all the help. I’ll keep y’all updated on how the rebuild goes.

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I also recommend Paul’s. I believe you can send your short block and Russ will pour your bearings and line bore. I may be wrong but I believe he does offer doing it all. As Bearsfan said, his service is normally one of the few I can rely on to be quick and high quality. I have done over a half dozen engines worth of rods and mains with Paul. I’ve never set him a block because I didn’t have the need as I had a good guy here locally in MA.

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Larry30 Offline OP
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Update on the 29 motor. I got ahold of Russ a few weeks ago, spent about 30 minutes on the phone with him. Hopefully in June I will be driving everything he needs up to him to get me back on the road. I am pretty excited to see his shop. Thank you everyone for the advice.

I have hit one more road block though. It’s the last thing I need to take off to get it ready for Russ. How do I take out the oil distributor? From reading the book it doesn’t sound like it comes out? The book says the brass tube has been “expanded” into the cylinder case.. as you can see from the picture I need to take it out so I can repair that oil line. Any help would be appreciated.

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the feed tubes and housing come off, have to work it gently , pry left, pry right, little my little, it comes straight out towards center of engine. maybe 1/4" ?
the copper tube that is in the block stays, at least mine did. it goes from outside the block to inside.
here are a few pictures of when i was putting mine back together.

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Originally Posted by Larry30
I got ahold of Russ a few weeks ago, spent about 30 minutes on the phone with him. Hopefully in June I will be driving everything he needs up to him to get me back on the road. I am pretty excited to see his shop. Thank you everyone for the advice.

Russ is a great guy, super knowledgeable and helpful. they do superb work.


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Larry30 Offline OP
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BearsFan315, thank you very much for the pictures. That’s exactly what I was needing. I was worried about breaking it but that makes sense that the tube would stay and it would slide off the back side of it.

Russ told me to give him a heads up before I drive up to the shop and he would have something ready to pour so I could watch. I am excited to see how they pour the bearings and all the tools I wish I had lol.

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There are a couple of more items you will probably need. The bolts that hold the oil distribution tubes in the block have small asbestos filled crushable copper washers under their heads on the outside of the block. If you leave those off it will seep oil from around the bolts. The Filling Station carries those and the larger one that goes under the oil distribution valve retaining bolt head. You can try to reuse your original washers but it may not work.

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To build upon what beachbum said about the copper washers, I suggest putting sealant goop on all bolt threads that stick through the block into the splash zone. This action will help prevent oil from seeping out via the threads.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!




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