VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 steering box adjustment

Need help on adjusting the play. My 33 Eagle coupe wanders almost bump steer. The old reprint manuel calls for 3 adjustments. I tried the locknut and stud on the side but get no change. the pitman arm has very little play, so maybe the other two? thanks jeff33

Do all three as recommended in the manual. Also check all steering component connection points for play. If you're getting shimmy when hitting bumps in the road also look at the shocks. I had to convert my 38 to modern tube shocks to stop mine.

You need to do the adjustments in the proper sequence as stated in the shop manual. You must have the pitman arm or drag link disconnected. If the steering arms are still connected you cannot measure the increase in drag as each adjustment is made.

Whenever I adjust a steering box the second step after I disconnect the steering is to back off all 3 adjustments so I know that they are not interfering with each other.

Obviously you also need to check the alignment, especially toe.

I

Common sense told me this but thought I would check. this is not like a Ford!

I have rebuilt Chevy and Ford steering boxes. While the actual adjustment method might be different the principles are the same. First eliminate the steering shaft end play, then the sector side play, then set the mesh between the worm and sector.

I have the same symptom, 33 master. The steering box has some moderate play but I've driven vehicles with far more. This vehicle is all stock, and when I hit an irregular spot in the pavement the car darts to one side or the other, pretty hard to control. I checked alignment myself, gave it an 8th inch tow in using a long stick to measure. Not likely the best method but it's kind of perplexing as the linkage is all good, the shackles aren't worn allowing the rear or front axles to move sideways so it's some kind of bump steer..

On my 1934 Master... With newly rebuilt Dubonnet Knee action... shocks.... the car does not jump to one side or another when I hit rocks or pot holes in our dirt roads... I followed the adjustment procedure in my repair manual... and... put in new tie rod & drag link end kits.. checked the toe-in...... and now can steer with my arm on the window sill and one hand on the wheel.. going 25-30 on VERY ROUGH roads.... I have had a lot of straight axel pre war cars & trucks... and they were all teeth jarring on rough dirt, country roads... this '34 master with good functioning Dubonnet shocks... is AMAZING... sooooo smooth on wash board and rutted roads... a pleasure to drive now, on rough country roads..... as though it was made for rough dirt roads.... well engineered...... Grandma.... is Great...