Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Shade Tree Mechanic
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To facilitate getting my 1939 1/2 ton farm truck started from inside the cab (what a novelty!), I removed the Electrolock ignition switch, metal cable, and cup and wired a generic ignition switch into the dash. At some point years ago, a 1952 216 Stovebolt was installed in the vehicle and the previous owner replaced the coil and distributor but never finished the job of replacing the ignition switch. I kept the Electrolock cable and cup intact in case I want to do a restoration sometime in the future. I am still running a 6V system.

I would love to still be able to use the truck's original ignition key, which also opens the glove box, so I was wondering if the group could let me know if I can remove the lock from my Electrolock ignition switch and install it in a later non-Electrolock GM ignition switch that I can install on the dash. If this is possible, can anyone recommend a year range or model of switch to purchase for this task and also the steps I need to take to get the lock out of my Electrolock igntion switch? Thank you very much!

Mike

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Jarvis Erickson in Lynnwood Wa. works on locks and he may be able to help you. PH. 425-776-2804


Steve D
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My understanding is that there were 2 different keys that came with the truck. The octagon head key worked the ignition switch and door lock. Only the right door handle had a keyed lock.

The other key was for the glove box.


Rusty

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thank you m006840 and Rusty 37 Master! I have been able to do some additional research and it looks like I can remove the ignition lock from the housing by inserting a paper clip in one if the two holes on the face of the lock and turn it. Now I just need to find a later Chevy ignition switch it will fit into so I can use the original ignition lock and key.

Can anyone recommend an ignition housing that my lock will fit into and function?

Thanks again!

Mike

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Why not just find an original style coil that will accept your electro lock and use the part you have? The key is good to 1966, I think the lock cylinder is, as well.

Mike

Last edited by 35Mike; 07/28/22 12:20 AM.

ml.russell1936@gmail.com

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks, Mike! I plan on hanging on to the Electrolock switch and cable so I can go down that road someday when I restore it. As I’m finding out, restoration parts are expensive and making sure the Electrolock cable is working properly and finding a coil and distributor is not in the budget right now! Hopefully someday in the near future! Thanks, as always, for the information!

Mike

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I'm confused about you needing a distributor. The electrolock and original type coil will work with any distributor.

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Hi Mike,

I am certainly no expert on the Electrolock ignition system, but my understanding from the research I have done online is that a certain model distributor is needed that has a hole on the firewall side of the distributor body where the coil wire is connected. Is that not the case on your ‘39? Mine has a later model distributor that doesn’t have the connection on the side.

Here a a thread I was reading that gave me this information.

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/128457/electrolock-ignition-cable.html

Thanks!

Mike

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I don't think that tread you attached applies to our 39's. The shielded cable comes from the firewall and the cap on the end attaches to the top of the coil. The high tension side of the coil points down.

Dave

adding - You can also see the normal wire connection from the bottom of the coil to the distributor in the picture. What Delco-Remy number is on your distributor tag?

Attached Images
electrolock.jpg
Last edited by Dave39MD; 07/28/22 08:44 PM.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Hi Dave,

Thanks very much for your reply and for helping me to figure out the correct configuration for my Electrolock! The car is being stored a couple of hours away from me so I can’t get to get to it to get the Delco distributor model. The cable I am curious about is not the high tension cable that runs between the coil and distributor cap, but rather the smaller black wire that can be seen in your photo that runs from the bottom of the coil and is connected to the side of your distributor body. I believe that connection is what is mentioned in the article I linked in my previous post. Does that make sense?

I apologize in advance if I am not correctly understanding the Electrolock connections. It looks like it confuses a lot of folks!

Take care!

Mike

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The hot lead to the coil travels from the switch through the armored cable to the + coil lead. In the 39 setup it is protected under the cap at the top of the coil. The black wire is attached to the - post of the coil and travels through a insulated fitting on the distributor where the point arm and condenser are attached. I will try and add a few pictures that may help.

Dave

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distributor.jpg coil bottom.jpg coil top.jpg wire diagram.jpg
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Great images, Dave- thank you so much! Unfortunately, as I mentioned in an earlier post, my ‘39’s original engine, including the distributor, were replaced with a ‘52 216 so I don’t have the correct distributor needed to complete the Electrolock setup. One of these days I will find one and get the Electrolock system restored. Just out of curiosity, what model distributor is that in your photos?

Thanks again!

Mike

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I am not sure but would guess that black wire would hook up to whatever distributor you have. The one on my 39 and the one in the picture are 1110008. Not sure that is 100% correct for your truck. It would be in the parts catalog if I think of it I'll look.

Dave

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This getting really muddy, but Dave39MD's excellent pictures show how it really is.

There are 2 kinds of Electrolock. The first is from the early 30s or maybe earlier, and does involve the distributor. The cable runs to the distributor and shorts out the points. But, that is NOT what we are talking about.

In the mid to late 30s, an Electrolock is just a normal 6v negative ground ignition system, but with a shield over the 6v wire from the ignition switch to the coil. That's it. That's the whole deal.

There is nothing special about the distributor, 216 or not. The only thing special about the coil is the location of one terminal, the positive terminal. It is on the bottom of the coil (or the top depending on how you look at it). It is located there so the metal cap can cover it up. Electrically, there is no difference between this mid to late 30s Electrolock coil and a 216 coil or a new 6v coil from the parts store.

A 6v Chevrolet ignition is wired like this: (+)6v >> ignition switch, ignition switch >> (+)terminal on coil, (-) terminal on coil >> distributor terminal (points and condenser).

With a non-Electrolock ignition switch, as you might imagine, you run the switched power from the ignition switch to the (+) terminal on the coil. That is the terminal marked (+) if you have a 216 or a modern coil, and it is the terminal that would normally be covered up by the metal can if you are still using the old Electrolock coil. Also run a wire from the (-) terminal on the coil down to the distributor.

Using a mid to late 30s Electrolock ignition switch with a newer ignition coil is possible too. The hookup is the same. The main problem is that the wire coming out of the armored cable is not long enough. You could bolt on an extender wire with ring terminals and tape that up so it doesn't short. Run the other end to (+) on the new coil. It would be clunky, ugly, and somewhat mechanically unsound, and personally I would not do it, but ELECTRICALLY it would work and the truck would run. Again run a wire from the (-) coil terminal down to the distributor.

From what you have told us it sounds like it would be easier and cleaner just to use the electrolock. The distributor doesn't matter, but if you don't want to you don't have to. There's no magic. It will work either way.

I think putting the cylinder out of the electrolock in some other switch is unlikely to work. The good news is you can have the same key if you want. GM keys used the same key blanks from about 1936 until sometime in the late 60s or even later. It doesn't even matter which head style is on the key because the 2 kinds interchange. As long as you are using some sort of GM ignition switch, you can have it re-keyed to match any old GM key you want.

Last edited by bloo; 07/29/22 10:13 PM.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thank you, bloo, for this very detailed explanation! I did not realize that the Electrolock configuration changed over the years. Thank you also to Dave39MD for the great pictures. I am excited someday to get my Electrolock back in running order and will check my distributor model when I work on the truck next. This thread with its detailed instructions and awesome pictures has been super helpful. Thanks, everyone!

Mike


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