VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Electrolock ignition cable

Can't figure where the electrolock cable fastens at the engine.
I believe everything is stock, but can't find an attachment point at the distributer. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

If you have the right distributor there should be a hole on the fire wall side that the electrolock goes to.On the inside of the distributor the points attach to the end of the stud from the electrolock. That is the way it is on my 31 coupe. What year is your car? Good luck with your project.

Hi cle elum,

Welcome to our Chevy Chat II. I think you will find us friendly and helpful.

So, pull up a chair and sit down and let's talk old cars (Chevrolets).

We would like to have a fair shot at your question, but we can't be of much help unless you state the year of the car and some discription. Is it a 6-cylinder?

What is your distributor model number?

:) :grin:

I guess it would help to be a little more complete! I have a 1930 chev sedan special with 6 cylinder engine. The distributer does not have a hole for the cable. The dis. model # is 633G.
Thanks for the help!

The Delco-Remy model 633 G distributor indeed does have a hole in the side of the housing for the electrolock terminal stud. The hole is located on the side of the distributor housing where the breaker arm spring is connected. If your electrolock is not connected to the distributor then chances are there is an insulated stud in the hole at present and the points are connected to it.

:) :grin:

You may be missing some parts from the end of the electrolock. In addition to the stud there are a few washers, insulators and a cup with tang that fits in the small hole next to the ~3/8" hole in the side of the distributor.

You know your stuff! The cable does fit through the hole in the side of the distributer. However, I don't have anything except the large shielded cable running from the dash through the firewall that has an end piece about 2" long. There is a brass insert in that piece through which the small cable, which has a threaded end on it, protrudes.

Any idea how to come by the parts that are missing? Is the electrolock necessary for operation of the engine, or is there a way around it?

Thanks again for helping this novice!

The threaded end is called the terminal stud. You are missing all of the washers, insulators and the terminal cup to make the assembly complete. The terminal stud is what the points are connected to inside of the distributor. Without the electrolock connected you will have no current flowing to the distributor and the spark plugs.

With some work, the electrolock can be by-passed but you will still need some type of insulated stud on the side of the distributor for the points to connect to. And, a wire coming from the negative side of the coil, along with the condenser wire, will have to be connected to the insulated stud as well.

:) :grin:

Here's an easy way to get your engine running suggested by Chipper when I had a problem with my electrolock.

If you send the electrolock out for repair any 15 amp or higher rated on/off switch can be used. A toggle switch, on off switch from your local tractor supply company or ? You will need to put the switch between the ammeter and positive pole on the coil. Then a wire between the negative pole and the points. You will need an insulated stud or screw so the line doesn't ground on the distributor and there is a place to attach the condensor wire.

I used a plastic insulated stud from a 60's vintage distributer I found laying around.

Try it out. I used a simple two way key switch that fit the hole in the dash. You may have to hunt ebay or swap meets for a replacement cable. The small parts are usually very hard to fine.

RayG

If you have an original "pop-out" electrolock with a working key it can be restored with all of the missing parts included, so a replacement cable would not be needed. If you become a member of the VCCA you can look in their monthly magazine, the "Generator & Distributor", under the "Services Offered" section and locate a dude that restores distributors and electrolocks.

:) :grin:

Ray
I have everything except what goes INSIDE the terminal cap that goes on the end of the eletrolock cable.
What goes inside? Where does the condensor wire attach?
Thanks
Bruce

The condenser wire must have an eyelet on the end to work correctly. The insulated eyelet goes up through the elongated slot in the bottom of the terminal cup.

Installed on the terminal stud, inside of the terminal cup, are the following parts....listed in order: A large paper washer, a #10 lockwasher, the condenser wire eyelet, a small flat metal washer, a large bakelite washer, and the terminal stud insulating bushing.

Ok
I asume you are talking from the distributor on back to the cable?
Here's what I did: (from cable to distributor)
A rubber thick faucet washer then the eyelet from the condensor then another faucet washer then the paper insulation then the terminal cap.
So far no ignition power from the key.
I fried my original wire inside the armored cable. I replaced it, but I dont know how it hooks up to the ignition switch because I broke the inner tang. I hooked another eyelet from the inner wire to the "batt" terminal externally, but still no power from the ignition switch.
Any suggestions?
And thank you for your help!
Bruce

No....I am talking from the electrolock end to the distributor. The parts you used are incorrect. Follow the instructions above.

The wire inside of the cable is soldered to a small round terminal inside of a large bakelite barrel on the terminal stud end and to the "Coil" terminal tang on the lock cylinder end. The "Batt" terminal is for the wire that is attached to the ammeter.

Sounds like you need to get your electrolock and distributor restored correctly so that it will be a good working unit. You also might want to purchase a 1929-32 Chevrolet parts book and a wiring diagram.

OK
I did rebuild the unit by soldering the tip of a new wire then assemblying into the "barrel". It wasn't that hard, but I didn't assemble correctly.
Again, thanks for your help; I will try to buy a wiring diagram my 32 book doesn't give one except a general non detailed one for the car as a whole.
Your help was great!
Bruce

By the way you did rebuild it for me a while back; worked good until it fried.

If I rebuilt it for you what happened to all of the correct parts since I always supply the correct parts with the electrolock? How did you fry the electrolock already? Did you let it touch the starter switch terminal when the battery was connected?

Already? you rebuilt it probably 7/8 years ago.
Accidents happen, and you guessed it; the armored cable touched the hot starter nut. I have since installed a rubber boot over the nut; too late as it turns out.

If I use a rubber washer instead of where the paper one goes against the end of the cable, does it matter?
Also, why is a lock washer nessesary?

Yep, already. Your electrolock should last another 70 years like it did the first time!

A rubber boot on the starter terminal was used as standard equipment on some models prior to 1932. The 1932 models came from the factory with a metal shield over the starter terminal instead of a rubber boot. The rubber boot and the metal shield were used to keep the electrolock from touching the starter terminal and frying the electrolock. Anyway, frying the electrolock is a fairly common accident on cars where there is no protection on the starter terminal.

A paper washer was used as a matter of thickness since there are a lot of parts installed between the end of the electrolock and the distributor. A lock washer is used to hold the condenser eyelet tight in place between it and the small flat washer that is on the other side of the eyelet. The lock washer also aids in holding the other parts tight and when all of the parts are tight in place there is good continuity and the amount of resistance is reduced at the points as well.

So, what happened to all of the correct parts that you had in the terminal cup?

years ago, I moved just after and unfortunately they "vanished". I guess I'm lucky to have what I have. I remember paying alot of money to get that thing rebuilt too. It was a disaster since I was a show when it happened. Can't remeber how I got her home.

The reason I mention the rubber washrs internally is because the terminal stud is way too long without those two thick washers. Can I buy the corect assembly washers & etc. from you?
Thanks Bruce

Broo 112 - Article describing the electrolock parts is available in the MEMBERS AREA. Search previous G&D articles.

Cle Elum - you should come to our local VCCA meetings. We have just finished restoring a '29 in our club last week!! and I'm about 3/4 done with another '31. We speak early '30's Chevy.

Be kinda tough. I livein So Cal. I tried to downlod the applic today, but it come out in code. I called back east & VCCA is mailing me an applic.
I was a member bout 10 years ago?
Bruce

As I am still waiting for my membership to come through, I sure would like to get my 32 on ythe road again.
Dont have a wiring diagram for the following:
I need to know if a new tang can be built for the inside of the ignition switch that goes to the internal wire that runs through the armored cable.
There is a tang that is on the "batt" side of the switch. Can something be soldered w/out ruining the bakelite that surrounds it?
Thanks
Bruce

There is no tang on the "Batt" terminal side of the switch for the internal wire.......the tang for the internal wire is on the "Coil" terminal side of the switch. If you are good at soldering you can solder on a new tang for the internal wire without damaging the bakelite.

You can get a complete wiring diagram from the Filling Station.