ONLY 1 wire in the horn, maybe it is the legs on the S wire hitting ground on either the column, horn bushing, or the through holes in the horn cup. having same issue with a friends 1931, we put in all new stuff, and still adjusting the length of the legs of the S- Wire
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Hi guys,my 31 also does this but only sporadically and seemingly only when moving the wheel to the right from center.Actually has not done it in some time now so maybe something moved slightly?? Hey BearsFan,do you have a photo of the original horn and where it was mounted on the 31 Coach? You have the best photos my man,so very helpful so they are !!!
I had a similar problem on my 32 which I believe is the same set up at the steering wheel. I felt the problem was the rubber that the contact goes thru not full retracting. Reproduction ones are available but the reviews were not great. I took a childs sponge rubber ball and cut it to fit under the rubber cup and i have not had a problem since .
No the rubber cup is under the horn button. The horn contact wire goes thru it and when the button is pushed the wire makes ground contact to complete the horn circuit. When the button is released the rubber cup is supposed to spring back and open the circuit .
Got it - thanks! It's the strangest thing. Took it out yesterday and the horn sounded five times during a ten minute run. Took it out again today and nothing! The horn will sound if I compress the button.
When the horn blows without pushing the button in the center of the steering wheel it is probably a loss of insulation on the wire that runs down the column. If the wire grounds against the steering column the horn will sound.
Suspect that is the issue. Wonder if I can remove the wheel and attach a new wire to the old and pull it through?
most likely not. it is not a fun or easy task. wire comes out hte bottom of the bushing. you will have to push the bushing back up the steering column, after you remove the steering column from the car. then fix/replace wire and then reset the bushing, and put it back together. also if you overbend the s-wire extensions that touch the bushing to enact the horn they may get out of wack and hit the column.
the 1931 i did this on a few months ago. has the intermittent horn issue when turning. i have put heat shrink on the s-wire where it passes through the cup in the column to isolate that issue, i have trimmed down the s-wires and it still intermittently goes off on a turn. i am now going to try the sponge/ball trick to see if it pushed hte rubber cup back up out of contact range.
just know that if the s-wire touched any metal (ground) the horn goes off >!<
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
As Chipper noted it may be the wire inside the column. Possibly a covering could be slid over and up into the column to isolate the wire but at that point probably best to just replace the bushing and wire.
Hello All, I do not have access to the Coach at this time so I hope someone could clarify how the horn circuit gets to ground when the horn button is pressed. Is the horn button made of metal? Does the S-wire transfer contact from the brass ring of the mast bushing to the pressed horn button and then the horn button transfers contact to the steering column completing the ground connection? If there was no horn button installed, would pressing directly on the S-wire still make a connection to ground? Hope someone can set me straight on this highly complicated circuit.
horn has hot (positive) direct from wiring harness chassis is ground on car so most all metal is ground
the ground wire from horn runs up steering column and connects to bushing brass ring. when you press horn it pushes the s-wire down and contacts the brass ring and the cup therefore completing circuit / ground meaning horn blows
the cap is not required to make horn work. but it keeps s-wire from coming out of rubber. you can use a wire hanger and stick it in one of the cup holes and touch brass ring and cup/ metal making horn blow. this is how i tested bushing on the 1931, with a meter for continuity
when i was working on the 1931 if you brush the ground wire against anything metal horns goes off, you pee your pants.
seen some replace the horn with a push button on the dash... and reroute wires.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
My car is a nicely done restoration but more as a driver. I never enter judged shows. Thinking best option is to reroute wires to a dash button. A schematic would be helpful. Is it as easy as taking the hot wire from the horn one side of the button and the other to ground?
I am guessing that if you purchase a "dash" button it will come with a diagram. The wire that goes into the steering column will need to connect to the button on one side and the other side goes to a good ground.
I am doing a driver restoration, redid my horn as original so i can hit it as normal. friend has an older Chevrolet did a single contact horn button with the band strap on the column, NAPA for about $5
as Steve noted pretty easy to wire up a single button horn
run a ground/negative wire from horn to one side of button, then the other side run wire to solid ground, bare metal (screw or such on dash) horn button is just a circuit interrupt!! open circuit till you push button then it closes circuit blowing horn
Hello Bears, So it's the metal 'CUP' that supplies the ground. The legs of the S-wire can and should slide along touching the 'CUP' metal and is in constant standby only awaiting a press of the 'button/cover/ cap' to push the S-wire into contact with the bushings brass ring completing the ground. Thanks for the explanation.
Appreciate the assist! At least for now will utilize the short-cut method. Other projects prevail. At least the irksome horn bleeping with wheel movement can be controlled for the present. I well re-address the correct remedy in due time.
When you do decide to fix it correctly, one possibility is to disconnect the wire that runs up the steering column from the horn, remove the terminal, and slide a long piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire and right up the steering column to the bushing to insulate the wire from the steering shaft and the housing. Then reterminate the wire and reattach to the horn.
find the wire coming out of the steering column near the steering box. it will run from there to the horn. use a nutdriver/wrench and remove the wire from the horn. tape it off and secure it out of the way
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
