Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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ABowlin Offline OP
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Hello from Kansas City!
I am a new lucky owner of a 1933 Chevy 1.5 ton truck – gifted to me from my Dad. It’s a 20+ yr old restoration. Runs, but smokes a bunch. Goes slow and hard to brake- all expected. I’m wondering if anyone has advice on swapping out the rear axle/gear ratio to keep up with traffic as well as recommendations on best updates to brakes for safer, quicker stops? I’ve considered seeing if I could convert the flat bed into a 34 1/2 ton pickup- anyone ever do that? Is that a silly idea? Ideally I would love to end up with a safer, faster, more reliable truck for in-town traffic driving. Any advice is welcome- know that I’m brand new to this!

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Welcome to VCCA Chat. That sounds like great original truck.

As you know, changing the rear axle ratio will change the relationship between engine speed and ground speed. In your case, I am assuming you want to reduce the engine speed for a given ground speed.

I’m not an expert on your truck so I do not know what other axle ratios might be available. Typically for that old a 1 1/2 ton truck there was only one ratio and it was intended to give pulling power, not speed. The other factor to consider is that even if you could install a higher speed ratio the engine might not have the power to make the vehicle go any faster. Plus your acceleration will be reduced.

A key point which you note is that brakes are a limitation. Those mechanical brakes need to be properly maintained and adjusted. As a first step I suggest you get a shop manual and go through the adjustment procedure. You might be surprised how much better they will work.

That whole truck was never designed for nor intended to be driven at today’s highway speeds. If that is your objective you probably need to consider putting the body on a more modern truck frame and chassis. The steering, brakes, frame, suspension, and wheels/tires were designed for use in an era with lots of unpacked roads and speeds of 35 mph.


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wel2 parking
Welcome Adam. I'm a kind of stock guy myself. To me the enjoyment of driving my 38 is the fact that it makes noise, and goes slow, and rides rough, and sometimes smokes a tad. It's a time machine to a slower and simpler time. I'm sure you'll find the answers you're looking for. Welcome again.


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The GM Heritage Center has information kits available for free. I will attach the link for 33. The trucks are at the end and there are a few illustrations of bodies available. You could also get any body you wanted mounted on a cab and bare chassis.

Dave

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...mation-kits/Chevrolet/1933-Chevrolet.pdf

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That sounds like a beautiful piece of history. Personally I like leaving things original. However if you want ideas and help on upgrades, you can get them on the Stovebolt.com.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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ABowlin Offline OP
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Thank you all for the insight and helpful links. I did a bit more research and think this may be an eventual two-step project. The first- making it the strongest version of it's original self. Ideally I'm looking at rebuild of the inline six to make it a bit more reliable /stronger, etc. I then may look at swapping out the rear end to allow it to at least flow with the city's traffic around me (everywhere is 45 limit here). I think I'll rebuild a version of the stakebed but shorten what we currently have at the moment by around 10 inches or so. I know the front leaf springs at least need replacing- they're pretty flat and it bottoms out on a rough bump – any advice on those, are new ones a good bet (if so, where?) or a solid set of originals the right way to go?

I've attached a photo as it sits currently.

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As others have said, we are mostly a bunch of guys who leave our vehicles original and enjoy the slower pace of driving a vintage car or truck.
As for your brakes, they will be completely satisfactory if you make sure they are in good working order. I recently re-did the brakes on my 1935 Chevy with new linings and adjustment, following the procedure in the shop manual. The results are better than I could have imagined.
When you start modifying an old vehicle, it's had to find a stopping place. Please consider making your truck function as close as possible to original specs, then see if it suits you. It would be a shame to modernize a truck that has survived for 90 years. One of our members, who lives near Wellsville, Kansas, uses his 1935 Chevy, 1-1/2 ton truck every day.
Welcome to Chat.

Mike


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I had Atlas Spring and Axle in Wichita re-arch the springs on my 53. That's an option if you don't have a spring & axle company in KC.
https://atlasspringandaxle.com/


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ABowlin Offline OP
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Thank you! 35Mike- You said it well; I'm going to start with making it function as close to original as possible- all original. I can always mess with it down the road, but first- it's going to get to be teh best version of it's original self. Starting with a motor rebuild followed by the brakes.

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Yes!
What you just said is music to a lot of ears here!
Our old trucks are very drivable.
We just need to allow a little more time to get to the store for the milk.

That's a very nice looking truck you have there and I for one am glad to hear your intentions for it.
And a very nice looking old JD there too!
A Model B?


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ABowlin Offline OP
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@Stovblt – That would be my Dad's JD-, yes I believe it's a Model B.

For the group- the engine runs, but runs weak. We're thinking of taking it in to get rebuilt by more professionals than us. Any recommendations around Kansas / Missouri?

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Go down to the "Trucks and Vans" and scroll back through the pages until you find the thread titled "1936 1 1/2 ton Low Roof Semi Lots of Pics". That's my truck. I drive it often to run errands. It is all original.
When you use old vehicles for every day work, (mine is by no means a daily driver) you should understand that you are doing something important and that it takes a little longer. Choose the time of day and route. More people will get enjoyment from seeing you than will be annoyed by any inconvenience you cause. Relax and enjoy the connection with a simpler time. It is an experience that few will ever have the chance to experience.

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

Many miles of happy motoring
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Driving it in KC will take planning (I’ve lived in the area 25 years). I drive my 35 1 1/2 ton daily to chore here on the farm. I have lots of options to drive for things but would rather drive the 35.

When I lived in the city I drove my restored cars with hydraulic (but not assisted) brakes and still was cautious. I would certainly be really cautious with the mechanical brakes but it would be really fun to cruise the plaza and take scenic routes.

The engine you have can be rebuilt to be as reliable as most any modern engine. Mine starts and runs just fine when it is 10 degrees or 100 degrees. I don’t haul more than a couple thousand pounds in mine at any one time but that is still a chore to stop. It reminds me of my mother’s story about trying to stop 110 bushels of wheat with it. I have more engine power than I do thigh muscles for repeated stops. I’m not sure I would gear it up much just due to brakes. Mine is perfectly happy at 40 but 50 feels like the end of the world. I can see your concerns about speed in the city.

Nice to have another old Chev in the area!

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. From 1933 - 2002, Chevy offered two ratios in their ton&half (AKA: 3500HD) civilian trucks. 5.43 and 6.17. Military used 6.66. My 1937 Ambulance (Job 271) cruises at 70 MPH with 5.43 and optional 900 X 20 rear tires. My 38 Ton & half Canopy Express had a 6.17 when I got it running. It was beating the babbitt at 45 MPH. I changed it to 5.43 and 8.25 X 20 rear tires and now it travels 62. .
With the idiots who have anti lock brakes and wide tires these days, I wouldn't want to go more than 45 with mechanical brakes. Enjoy the drive. Lou .
.

Last edited by Lou; 03/21/22 02:49 AM. Reason: did not finish.

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