I don't know of any diagram or illustration for the horn button. It is fairly simple. The button has two wires extending from the underside, a rubber "skirt" and metal cover. The "skirt" fits into a groove in the decorative cup in the wheel center. That provides the "springiness" to retract the button. When pushed the button moves into the wheel opening, the two wires touch the top of the steering column bushing and provide a ground for the horn circuit. If the bushing is too far down the column, has a break in the wire, damaged brass contact surface or not connected to the horn it will not complete the circuit and the horn will not "blow".
Thanks Chip, I appreciate the description, but what do you mean by "wheel opening"? My horn button is plain, no decoration or logo with a rubber plug under it with a S wire going through & the S wire is thick like a coat hanger
This picture is of a 38. I don't know how it translate to a 32 but from what I gather it should be similar. The attached picture is the "wheel opening" meaning the opening in the center of the steering wheel. In the same image you see two holes at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock. Those are the holes the "S" wire legs pass though. The lip on the horn button grommet fits into a groove in the steering wheel opening. The grommet acts to hold the 'button/grommet/S wire assembly' in place in the opening AND it also acts like a spring by pulling the "S" wire back after you honk the horn. When you press the horn button it forces the legs of the S wire into the holes where the tips of the wires contact a brass/copper ring on the mast jacket bushing. In theory the shaft of the S wire leg(s) will contact the edge of the hole(s) located at 11 and 5 in the photo at the same time which completes the electrical circuit and allows the horn(s) to honk. This shows what the S wire/button/grommet assembly looks like.
Last edited by Tiny; 09/04/2105:37 PM.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
fews parts of the horn the mast bushing, inside the steering column with wire to horn the cap, the one o bought was plain steel, nothing fancy, my 1929 is painted black rubber with S cut, the s wire (thick like coat hanger) fits in here, and then the cap goes on) trim ring/cup goes in the steering wheel opening, then rubber/s-wire/cap assembly go in .
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Thanks all of you, I think I get it now, it appears I have all the parts, not sure how far down the steering shaft housing that the bearing goes. Any info on that?
There should be a couple of small indentations that stop the bearing/horn contact at the right place. Look about 6 inches down from the steering wheel end of the mast jacket.
While you may see the indentations in the tube it is best to measure the depth of the bushing location before removing. Sometimes the bushing will be tight going in and the slight resistance from the small indentations will not be felt.
I have a number of rebuilt ones that I'll be selling in Hershey, PA next week. If you'll send me a PM any time after September 10th, I could send you some pictures and prices of what's left. At the moment, they are already packed out for the trip, so I can't help until I return.
I did check 4 tubes I have here and there is one indentation 2 7/8 down from the lip of the tube. Looking at the wheel from the drivers seat it is at noon on the tubes still in a car.