Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#455891 03/28/21 06:05 PM
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lclapp Offline OP
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I'm restoring a 29 series LQ 1.5 ton truck. The truck does not run, but when sitting the steering seems okay, no excessive play in my opinion, but I thought I'd open up the gear box and remove the old oil/grease and refill with new. Upon doing so I found a chewed up piece of metal (pic attached) that I'm guessing is a Worm Thrust Ball Bearing Retainer. But there were no loose balls! If this mystery part is indeed the Retainer, shouldn't there be a symptom(s)? If so, what? I'm hoping a PO replaced this bearing and didn't fish out the old Retainer. Probably wishful thinking, but before I break something that doesn't need fixing I thought I'd ask the Forum.

Just in case I need one, I did a quick search of The Filling Station's and Gary Wallace's on-line catalogs, but didn't find this Worm Thrust Bearing. Supplier Suggestions?
I also looked for the 'paper' gaskets or shims (some were damaged in places), but also with no luck. Can they be fabricated? Or can I use a gasket dope in the damaged areas to prevent/reduce leakage? Suggestions?
Lastly (for now) ,does this design have a seal to prevent leakage at the Pitman Arm Shart? I don't see one in my 8/1/1930 parts catalog.

Thanks for any and all help.

Pic of mystery part:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/05swcmdaiditajp/worm%20thrust%20ball%20retainer%20mystery.jpg?dl=0

Last edited by lclapp; 03/28/21 06:54 PM. Reason: prematurely posted
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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lclapp #455908 03/29/21 10:19 AM
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If it were me I would worry about it unless I went through it all the way just to make sure there are no other issues. You will probably have to make the gaskets. There have been posts about machining some steering boxes so they can except a modern seal but I am not sure if they were 29. Someone who knows will jump on here with the info soon.

Dave

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Thanks Dave. I'm concerned, but have also be known to not leave well enough alone!

lclapp #455983 03/30/21 11:02 PM
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Typically there is no seal on the pitman shaft. There are many posts about rebuilding these old boxes and which grease to use.

The box is designed so there is very small clearance between the pitman shaft and the bushing. The lubricant is fairly thick (on the order of 600w oil) so very little seeps past the shaft.

Over time the bushing does wear so more grease can leak out. Eventually the box does run dry and everything wears.

If I remember correctly the ”˜29 steering box is supposed to use 600w oil. Not only is it fairly thick, it really clings to the gears and other parts.

Some forum members make their own steering gear lubricant. They mix regular gear lube (GL5 85w-140) and chassis grease (NGLI 2) to make a thickened but pourable blend.

Last edited by Rusty 37 Master; 03/31/21 01:41 PM. Reason: Spelling

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lclapp #455993 03/31/21 01:26 PM
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I use a mixture of John Deere Corn Head Grease and 600w oil in the steering boxes of my two old trucks. The Corn grease alone does not flow well in a steering box because it does not get very warm.

I'd say my mixture is 80% grease and 20% oil. It steers well and does not leak out the 93 year old bushing. ;-)

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



lclapp #455995 03/31/21 01:52 PM
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I agree with Dean. Corn head grease (NGLI 0) alone is too thick for a steering gear. Some people use cotton spindle grease (NGLI 00).

You want something that will flow into the steering box. I spent the money and bought the Penn-Rite steering gear lube. Now that I have done that I think you can do as well mixing your own.

Remember that any of today's lubricants you put in these old vehicles is way better than what was available when they were designed and manufactured. Plus very few of us will ever put lots of miles on these vehicles.


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lclapp #456010 03/31/21 08:27 PM
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Thanks guys for the lube info. Based on my earlier review of posts, I procured JD Corn Head Grease and planned to mix my own. Thanks Dean for the proportion of grease to 600w. Thanks Rusty 37 for the bushing / pitman shaft description. Based on your description and the minimal leakage I've had, I do not think this will be an issue.

I am now most concerned with the chewed up piece of metal (see pic in initial post) I found while cleaning out the old grease in preparation for adding my 'mix'. It looks like a chewed up Worm Thrust Ball Bearing Retainer to me. Do you agree?
If this is indeed the Worm Thrust Ball Bearing Retainer, shouldn't there be loose balls and a noticeable sympton?

lclapp #456011 03/31/21 08:42 PM
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I bought a 17kg pail of NGLi 00 Grease from WalMart. It is Sinopec brand from Singapore. Cost was ~ $ 70 which makes it very reasonable.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
lclapp #456012 04/01/21 12:51 AM
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Thanks for the reminder about the mystery part.

I agree that it looks like a ball bearing ball separator (not necessarily a retainer). Its purpose is to keep the balls equally distributed around the races and prevent them from rotating against each other. I am still thinking about what would have to happen to cause that damage.

The balls are trapped between the 2 races. They will fall out when you take the box apart.


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lclapp #456033 04/01/21 08:41 PM
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Thanks for thinking about this Rusty. Before taking the box apart and losing all functionality, I'd like to first procure the bearing. My Aug 1, 1930 parts list appears to describe the bearing as two parts, 551414 (Worm Thrust Balls & Retainer) and 551413 (Worm Thrust Ball Race). In addition to Gary Wallace, I'm waiting to hear from Timken. Any other suggestions?

lclapp #456037 04/01/21 09:59 PM
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Wash any existing lube off the worm & sector gears,replace them in the housing and check for play between the teeth.There are a couple of us(Bluezone in Norway & myself in Australia)who have made the sector gear to worm gear clearance fully adjustable.PM me if you want to know my method.


CJP'S 29
lclapp #456041 04/02/21 07:51 AM
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My GM to New Departure (ND) cross only goes back to 1934 if someone can cross the GM number to a ND number it may be easier to find the bearing.

Any chance there are readable numbers on the race edge or cage?

Dave

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Why not set the steering box up in a lathe and machine the radiused tapered seat out that's machined in the cast housing,and just fit a nominal size readily available thrust bearing,and do the same to the screw in end plug?


CJP'S 29
lclapp #456083 04/03/21 08:59 AM
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Guess its time to pull the gear box. So much for the easy lube job I started! CJP and Dave, good suggestions, thanks.

lclapp #456316 04/09/21 09:40 AM
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Larry,
I found some NOS races 551413 and the bushing for main shaft. If that is any help.
Bruce

lclapp #456324 04/09/21 01:37 PM
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I finally disassembled my gear box (pulling the steering wheel was the challenge!) and confirmed that the 'chewed up piece of metal' I found earlier when replacing the grease was indeed the ball bearing retainer from the lower end of the Main Shaft. See attached 'exploded' photo.

Bruce,
In my novice opinion the races look okay, so for now, I really need the Ball and Retainer portion (pn 551414) of the bearing assembly. However, I also discovered what I consider to be excessive play between the lower end of the Main Shaft and the Gear Adjusting Plug bushing. See attached 'Zoom' photo of this portion of the assembly. The play between the Main Shaft and the (upper) Case bushing could also stand to be improved. Are these the bushings you found? If so, I'm interested. I'll give you a call.

On the subject of locating the needed Ball and Retainer pn 551414, I found some replacement bearing part numbers (SKF pn 51104 and Nice Co (?) pn N-36) mentioned in 2015 and 2016 forum threads that I'm researching.

Thanks for the help!
Larry

Exploded: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ebotyda4mhgj64/exploded%20gear%20box%2020210409.jpg?dl=0

Zoom of Lower Thrust: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3k4s1n6lg...g%20and%20adj%20plug%2020210409.jpg?dl=0

Tapered seat: https://www.dropbox.com/s/k838l9c1y...ing%20tapered%20seat%2020210409.jpg?dl=0

lclapp #456333 04/09/21 11:42 PM
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Hopefully some of the ”˜29 experts will offer guidance.

Maybe I am looking at things incorrectly. It looks like the steering shaft has a lot of wear on the short stub just below the gear as well as a few inches above the gear.

If the gear itself is serviceable you might consider having those areas on the shaft spray welded and turned to size.


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lclapp #456376 04/11/21 07:57 AM
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Hi Rusty, I'm afraid you're seeing things correctly. I picked up NOS bushings from Bruce and he agreed with your assessment and suggestion. I will be visiting my machinist this week.

Larry

lclapp #456385 04/11/21 12:27 PM
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Hi Larry,

I missed that you are in the Richmond area. So getting parts and first hand advice from Bruce is easy. I have done that numerous times over the years when I am visiting family in Richmond.

Hope the box rebuild goes well.


Rusty

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lclapp #456502 04/14/21 11:45 AM
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Hi Rusty,
I just got back from visiting both my machinist and Bruce in regards to my worn main shaft. Bruce has been a great resource of parts and is very generous in sharing his knowledge with a newbie like myself. I live about 15 miles south of Bruce in Richmond proper. Maybe we can meet when you return to Richmond in the future.

Larry

lclapp #460048 07/26/21 11:02 PM
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Just in case someone else is looking for the steering gear box thrust bearing...

United Bearing (sales@unitedbearingcompany.com) fixed me up with bearing pn N-36. It was an exact replacement as near as I could tell. Just fyi...they only sell through distributors and gave me 3 in the Richmond VA area to contact.
One distributor said they couldn't sell to me because I disclosed I wanted it for an automotive application. Liability issues!
One distributor said the pn was for a 'nut'.
The third distributor came through for me!

lclapp #461086 08/26/21 05:04 PM
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Hi Larry,

I'm running into the similar trouble finding bearings for my1928 truck steering box. When I disassembled it I found one bearing in tacked (see pic) and the other in pieces with the balls in the bottom of the case. I called sales@unitedbearingcompany.com but they weren't able to help me. I see a reference to part # 51104 above. That's the only # I find any hits on. Does anyone know if that correct?

As always thank you all so much for your help!

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steering box bearing.png
lclapp #461093 08/26/21 07:53 PM
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Hi Kevin,

Attached is the invoice from my local distributor (ISSI) describing the 3 piece thrust bearing (pn "N-36") that came from United Bearing Company (UBC) in Texas. It came in a UBC box and was clearly labeled "N 36".
I only bought one bearing to replace the damaged one. Attached is a pic of the original, good bearing. I failed to take a pic of the N-36, but it was an exact match as best as I could tell.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sg3whgut8nu6vrk/new%203pcs%20thrust%20bearing%20pn.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1l8hr078myc69k2/original%203pcs%20thrust%20bearing.png?dl=0

I you like, I will reach out to UBC and/or my local distributor to see if the N-36 is still available.
And if you provide your dimensions, I can try to confirm that the N-36 is indeed what you need.

Let me know.

Larry


lclapp #461097 08/26/21 09:55 PM
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That would be awesome thanks Larry. The pic's looks like a match. ID= 13/16 OD= 1 inch 3/8 and W = 1/4. If you local local distributor still has them can you provide their contact info. Maybe I can order through them and have it shipped to me.

Thanks again for your help.

lclapp #461129 08/27/21 04:16 PM
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I tried calling sales@unitedbearingcompany.com (UBC) again today and asked them to look for both the item number and the PN and couldn't find either. I sensed they are getting a little frustrated with me calling them. If you share the name of you distributor that might work. Also I forgot to mention that the W =1/4 is the bearing only not the bearing & the race together.

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