VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1928 Chevy

Hi all

The numbers stamp on my plate for my Chevy are

22AB 7149

Can anyone tell me anything, where it’s was manufactured etc

Thanks

Stubdo the AB is a 1928 National and it was the 6149th vehicle produced at that plant. (1st car produced started with #1001). I don't know of any plant code that started with #22. Check that number again. #2 was Terrytown NY. #12 was Buffalo NY. and #21 was Janesville Ohio. I hope this helped.

Hi that’s, great help thank you

Please see pic it says 22 but maybe this plate is not original

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0fcPcEiSI2vo5XuI6RRvhdG9g#Belfast,_Northern_Ireland

Stubdo I found your information. Your car chassie and cowl were assembled in Terrytown New York and shipped to Australia to have the body assembled. Shipped top England in 1990.

Chevrolet Motor Company
Model: NATIONAL
Car Number: 22AB6779
Engine number is R4,717,446
=22AB7149 assembled in Australia and then imported into UK in 1990 has “Late 1928” Engine # R4,973,095 and
# 348532 BLOCK BOWTIE 14 I-6-8 [September 6th 1928]

Google ... Chevrolet U.S. and Canadian production figures 1912 - 1931.
It's all there at the end of the 1928 listings.

I know this will help.
Cheers;
Steve

Thank you so much that great information

Love to see a photo

Still work in progress as its a full restoration but getting there

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Cb-yCyhF_smN5KpbXpVUWG1A

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0TR63rYMfTNBkhn8EYiayfi6A

https://share.icloud.com/photos/06QqZDvGW-CFQYjFUqR9knCYw

Wow!! Looks beautiful, good luck with the rest, let's have some more photos of the finished product ????

Looks like it is coming together to be one beautiful Chevrolet. I have sure it will be a hit on your side of the pond. This side as well.

looking for info to update my 1928 chevy 4 cyl water pump. to a sealed bearing type pump. then an pressurized system.

Sorry to tell you but I don't know of a way to put sealed bearings or just seals into a 1928 water pump housing.

The Filling Station sells an early 6 cylinder water pump with seals. It required a altered water pump body (new casting) as well as slightly altered pulley (another new casting). They just couldn't find the parts to seal an original pump.

Pressurized cooling system would require a sealed pump as well replacement radiator. Don't believe just sealing off the overflow tube would be satisfactory as the original radiator was not designed for pressure. I know my radiator man puts a couple of pounds on originals to check for leaks but 7-15 psig containing hot coolant is a different situation. There are companies that make complete radiators for some older cars. They are mostly intended for rods or modified but should work if the outlets are in the proper location.

I saw that I was being redundant so as I couldn't delete the post I just changed it.

There is a fellow in our regional group of the HCCA who has converted some for model Ts. Also the fellow out of Austrailia with "the red chevy" has done that on his 28. He has posted some of work he has done to it on his website.

Hi All,

I have been running a modified 28 Chev water pump in the Red Chev since 2009 and it works like a charm. You use the original housing which is modified to take modern water pump innards, fully sealed and requires no maintenance. I have done over 7,000 miles with no issues and 3 other 28's that I recommended the pump to have had no issues also. If any one is interested let me know and I will pass on the Aussie machinist who does to conversion.

I have been running a "pressurized" cooling system, since that late 80's. and with the modified water pump I can do a 100 mile run in the heat with no water loss, and this is with a 46 year old radiator. My water level is always at the top of the radiator neck.

I fitted a gasket under the radiator cap and the overflow tube runs into an overflow tank that is not sealed. I used an overflow tank from an MG (Brass) and removed the gasket from the tank cap. Estimate the system is only just pressurized to 2-3 lbs but its enough to enable me to use modern coolant which is a no, no in the original system.

Please feel free to ask for details, and there is no point saying it wont work as the Red Chev and several other Aussie 28's are running with it.

Please see a link to my blog https://my28chev.blogspot.com/

If you scroll down there are technical postings on the left hand side including several covering the mod.

Regards

Ray

Reading this I see you have the rad overflow going to a tank that is open to atmosphere with no valve or other regulating device so I believe this is an open system and should not have any pressure. Standard setup has a gasket under the cap so I don't get that as a modification? Maybe I am missing something so I will have to peruse the article you mentioned. Thanks for the info.

Hi Cabboy,

Originally I was going to put a sealed cap on the overflow tank but held off as I was concerned that the pressure could be too much.
After a few months of experimentation and fitting the modified water pump, I was confident of the following.

1. There is sufficient pressure to expel and retract coolant to and from the radiator to the overflow tank
2. The cooling system is a sufficiently "closed" to prevent boiling
3. The cooling system is sufficiently "closed" to eliminate coolant loss
4. The cooling system is sufficiently "closed" to keep the coolant level right up in the radiator neck, just below the overflow tube.
5. The cooling system is sufficiently "closed" to be able to run modern coolant normally corrosive in an open system.

More important, after some thirty years all is well, and I regard my cooling system as good and reliable as any modern one, however in Australia we are not exposed to freezing conditions, and would not know how it would work in such conditions.

Regards

Ray

That's very interesting Ray, I have a similar system on my '29, I don't consider it pressurised as the overflow/expansion tank would have to be much higher than the top of the radiator to achieve that, but it does work well.

Could you explain what you mean about modern coolant being corrosive in an open system please, as I've been told that using modern coolant unpressurised leads to problematic cavitation around the pump impeller, although I don't seem to have any problems with that.

Regards Bernard