VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 A Novice and his '25 Sedan

Regarding the crack in the block, here's an interesting thread from the Stovebolt web site that talks about repairing a crack in an inline 6: Cracked 235 - Repairable?

Keep us posted. Curious minds want to know.

Dean

Hey Dean,
Going to pick up my block tomorrow. They got 2 cracks soldered and replaced the freeze plugs and did something (possibly braze?) to my lifters for $200. Hart's Machine Shop in just north of Paulding, Ohio. They have a great reputation.

Got my motor back yesterday.

Looks great, we got it set back into the car last night and are working to get things reconnected.

Hart's Machine Shop

Got mine back last week too.
I hope to have it back on the road soon.
Good luck with your project.
Steve

Doing the rear axel seals: inner and outer. Not too tough of a job, but no real direction unless you know someone to ask. Thankfully I had someone to ask

So the process was to remove the axel, then I took a pair of channel locks and was able to pry the old inner seal out. Cleaned up the area, set the new seal in and used a large socket ( 1-7/8), inserted into the new seal and tapped it in. Then reinsert the axel and pack grease between the seal and the bearings.

I realize that most of you know how to do this, but I wasn't one of those and I searched for instructions like these and was unable to find them, hopefully they can help someone in the future.

So I took my brakes over to a 'Clutch and Joint' shop here in Dayton to have them relined. I got them back on Tuesday. Unfortunately my emergency brake lining is too thick, my hub will go over it but it drags against it the whole way on and it's very tight.

I'm taking them back to the shop this morning, the guy told me that he miked the old ones and they were 3/16, not sure how that could be because the new ones are 3/16 and they don't fit.

I've been told that they are supposed to be 5/32, if they were 5/32 they would fit and allow for that 1/32 gap.

Does anyone know where you find the exact size these are supposed to be?

If I recall, the older brake shops had a tool for grinding a little material off the brake shoes. This might be less expensive than having them relined.

Here's a youtube video of one such grinder: Brake shoe grinder

Cheers, Dean

I just dropped them off, he miked them again while I was there. He just said he was going to put the 5/32 lining on them to make them right. I certainly appreciated his willingness to do that.

Hardly anything seems to work out as planned. So it seems they have quit making the 5/32nd woven lining. My options were to have molded brake pads put on or order NOS asbestos type pads and put them on myself. Thus far I have opted for the molded pads. Problem is, I've only got rear brakes and I've heard that the molded pads don't work real well with the hubs, guess that can make for an exciting trip
The NOS pads would be the best, but just not sure I want to mess with the asbestos.

I have taken the fuel tank off to clean it out and re-line it, the plan is to use POR-15 for this task. I will also re-line the outer tank of my fuel pump.

The son-in-law stopped by yesterday and helped me to readjust my lifters. When they put the new head gasket on they resurfaced the head so these had to be readjusted. Finally we put a little gas to her to check to see if she would fire. She sounded like she was in great shape for a 93 year old, took minimal adjusting and she fired right up, sounded so much better than before. I've got no leaks and can almost see myself driving her around.

Speaking from experience with the fuel tank, the chemical you add to the tank to dissolve the rust may expose hidden leaks. I tried that with the tank for my 41 only to discover that the rust and varnish were plugging several leaks, some large enough to push a straw through. Decided there were probably even more thin spots that would eventually begin to leak and replaced the tank with a new steel one.

Not saying you can't restore the tank. Just saying be prepared.

Reinstalling these brake pads is no easy task. I was able to get one side on yesterday evening but I'm not totally sure just how I go about getting them adjusted correctly. I've got a much larger gap at the top of the band than I have at the bottom. I've been told that they should be about the width of a hack saw blade, so that's what I'm trying to adjust them by. Can anyone with experience doing this give me a few tips? It seems that the adjusting screw is tighter than Adaleen Hilton, but I'm guessing I just need to keep bringing it down, is that the correct way to adjust the pads?

Jeff before you attempt to install the brake bands; make sure they are not out of round or you will have problems . If they are, use a 6-8" pipe to wrap them around to try to reform them. All the information you need is on pages 41-44 in your owners instruction manual. All adjustments should be easy to turn. If not then clean the threads before adjusting.
Steve

Thanks for the input Steve. I'm pretty sure they are "in round", I actually left them around the hubs for more than a week and just secured them with pull straps to make sure they were "in round". I should have thought about cleaning the threads thoroughly, I definitely need to do that.

In the last few days, I dealt with one of Lurch's brake bands which was slightly out of round.

Here's the story: Bending a '27 LM service brake band

Cheers, Dean