VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Windshield and rear window install. Which sealant?

I guess this has been discussed earlier (?), but I could not find much information when I tried searching...

I will soon be installing the windshield and rear window on my 1934 Master, using a gasket like this (window will go in left channel - body in right channel):
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad235/mikjel/IMG_4788.jpg
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad235/mikjel/IMG_4789.jpg

I will need to use some kind of sealant in both channels of the gasket, right? (to prevent water leaks)

Which sealant is recommended?

Thanks.

There is no recommended sealant for the windshield or the rear window using the LYNN STEELE rubber.

Only thing you have to pay attention to is making the BUTT JOINT real tight when the rubber comes together. That is where I would want an adhesive to butt the pieces together. Otherwise you will get a leak.

I used 3M #80010 Super Weather strip Adhesive. Masking tape the area off real good you do not want this on the paint as it really sticks. Use a toothpick to coat both surfaces to butt together and after its dry use the toothpick again to fill any opening in the butt joint. JUST opened tube.!!!

Problem with this part number is that the liquid cement is yellow. I would talk to LYNN STEELE RUBBER for a black joint sealant.


I noticed reading the lynn steele online catalogue they now have a special rubber that goes into the 1933--1935 chevys side window metal channel that will seal at the top stopping the water from getting down inside your wood laden doors and starting rot and rust.

mike lynch

The shop that installed the rear window in my 32 sedan joined the ends of the rubber moulding with super glue BEFORE installing it.

THE LYNN STEELE RUBBER THAT GOES INTO THE METAL SIDE CHANNELS ON THE ROLL UP WINDOWS IS :

CHANNEL FILLER 70-0075-57 $4.80 per foot

mike lynch

If your car is anything like mine...It will take three (3) men to get the front windshield in there. Two on the inside and one on the outside. Even after reading the Repair manual...the part that stumped us was after putting the windshied in place from inside the car...how to get the ridge rubber with windshield in it to stay in place while working the part on the outside into place. What we found out after several tries was once it is in there sort of... to imediantly "loosely" attach the garnish molding!!! That held it while we could futher "jocky" it into place. Then "ta duh" it went so smooth after that!!! Hope this helps.

Thanks for your answers.

I am not sure who made my rubber gasket, I bought it here in Norway/Europe (maybe it is Lynn Steele??).
But if I understand all of you correct, I should not have to use any sealant between "the body and gasket" and "gasket to window" to avoid water leaks.
I will try without sealant then.

You can put a string inside the molding to body section and by pulling it during installation it will help install it to the body by pulling the lip of the molding over the sheet metal.

I did not. But, Look at the installation instructions in the "Repair Manual"! Some do, but only after the glass/rubber is in place on the car, if it leaks. Proffessional glass replacement shops can also help; however, few, if any, have ever replaced a whindsheild in a car like you (or I) have. I will also add that extreame care must be used, after all; you do not want this gooie stuff showing and running down all over.

I used a 3M product made for this use. Also ordered a spout,lever pump to screw onto the container. It had a wedge on the tip to slip between the glass and the rubber. Worked great and cured a leaking windshield.

I used a clear sealer 96-8551-96 that I purchased from Steele Rubber products. The sealer is used on the outside between the outer rubber lip between the glass and rubber. I used the sealant on sides and bottom sections after the window was installed. I did not use a lot for obvious reasons. It dries clear and can be cleaned with mineral spirits or something similar. My daughter and I installed the windows and it requires patience. For me the back window was the hardest. The difficulty was that the outer lip kept letting go. Like Terrill I found that putting the garnish moulding on loosely helped stop the lip from falling inside the window. I did try the rope under the lip with limited success. The rope is used to pull the lip over the edge of the window opening. I hope this helps and good luck. If you get real mad take a break and by all means have some help.