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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 71
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 71 |
: Hi. My Roadster 1932's engine is getting too hot when I'm moving. [ 185 degrees without thermostat ]. They radiator seems to be good, but it's a model with a grille to looks like an honeycomb. The cost for a new honeycomb core from Filling Station is 1195$ us [ +- 1700$ ca ] it's a lot of money. I've talked to a guy who fix radiators and it dont looks easy to install a modern CORE on my original TANKS.
Anyone already gone through that?
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
I have had several modern cores installed in '28 and '31 radiators. Use "V" cell if I consider the original might be a bit limited or plan to use the vehicle in parades. Otherwise use "fin & tube" or "tubular" as they are less cost. Recently had one recored using a honeycomb made by a fella in PA. Cells are smaller than original. Haven't tested it yet. Core cost was in the $ 600 range. He can make two per week. Sorry I don't have the name as the local radiator shop orders the cores.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 148
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 148 |
I too have had several new cores done with the old tanks, no problem if your man knows his job.
Brian
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 71
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 71 |
Could you explain to me what is a "v" cell?
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
It is called a "V" cell because the cells are alternating "V" shaped. When you look at it the "Vs" are on their side.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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