After putting the restoration/replating of my vent windows on the back burner since early March, I now need to get serious about undertaking this task. Thanks to Russell for responding to my 03/04/14 post with a 'source for rivets' and also for providing sage advice regarding selecting the correct rivets and then getting them 'cinched' or set properly. I'm now questioning how to go about the dis-assembly process, and then more importantly, how to go about the re-assembly process after getting the chrome plating work done. It looks like a rather complex process, perhaps better left to true professional with the proper technical know-how and all the right equipment. I have contacted a couple of local chrome plating shops in the greater San Jose, CA area - both of which declined to perform the dis-assembly/re-assembly work. Has anyone out there done this type of project, and if so, can you share with me the process and tools used to accomplish this task? Or can anyone recommend a professionsl who can do this for me?
I would visit some automotive glass replacement companies and talk to some seasoned workers for advice if you want someone to do the work for you. I don't think you should be hesitant to try to do the work yourself. You should shoot a video while doing it. Narrate the video as you do the work.
I have a box of old vent window parts and an old door that still has its vent that I could refer to if you get stuck. I do remember soaking the glass and its frame in gas over night and the glass all but fell out of its frame. Put your big boy pants on and slowly work through the dissassembly.
Here are a couple of pictures to ID what you are getting into. I am assuming you removed the garnish around the window and the upholstery panel on the door. The first picture shows red arrows pointing to the screws you will need to remove. I always choose a screw driver with the largest head that will fit snugly into the screw head. I lightly tape on the handle of the screw driver with a hammer to loosen the rusted bond between the screw and its surrounding hole. I then try to turn the screw out of its hole using maximum pushing force. Once the screw moves I then tighten it and loosen it to gradually work it out. The bottom center red arrow points to a bolt that must be removed to get the window frame to come out of its regulator. Likewise, I only use a socket that corresponds to the number of sides of the bolt (6).
Remove the four large screws that hold the regulator in place and carefully pry the shaft out of the regulator. Remove these screws using a very large tipped screwdriver. Any screw or bolt that you could have sprayed with PB Blaster or a penetrating oil you should. Try to let it sit for 15 minutes and then respray it (screw, bolt, nut).
The last picture shows the part disassembled. The black piece is the mounting frame, which does have a chrome piece riveted to it. This piece usually is not one that needs rechroming. The window glass is held in place by the setting tape. This can be soaked loose from the glass with an overnight soaking in gas.
Chevs of the 40's sells new rubber for the frame, setting tape, glass, and vent latches.
Hope this is enough to get you through the project. Call me if you need more help 989-832-7634.
Mike, Thanks for your quick response. I have the vent window assemblies removed from the doors, and the glass has been removed. The one chrome plater who actually saw the pieces I wanted to have replated said all the parts need to be separated from each other to allow for the proper cleaning (of each individual part), and for buffing each individual part after the zink plating, and then again after the copper plating proceedures. This fellow and another plater declined to R/R the riveted pieces. That being said, what I need to know is how best to remove the various rivets - although I assume carefully drilling them out would be OK. But re-assembling the riveted pieces is perhaps the biggest challenge of all. What advice can you offer regarding the riveting issues? Another question I have is how do you go about installing the new wether seel rubber onto the vent window assemblies? Thanks much, Roy
I have not done any rubber installation work so some day I will be contacting you for advice.
To remove the rivets I would secure the chrome trim in a vise after protecting the chrome that is exposed to the vise with a pad or even duct tape. I would then use a sharp drill bit and drill off the bottom of the rivet. I call the bottom of the rivet the end that is inside the channel the glass fits in. It seems things will come apart a whole lot easier that putting them back.
I have done this a couple of times and this is what I learned: The setting tape comes in several different thicknesses. The regular suppliers only offered 1/16" and 1/32". Original Chevy manual says to use tape that is 3/64" thick (.047"). That has been hard to find, unless you want to buy a 50 foot roll. The 1/16" is so thick that it is almost impossible to force into place, even if you have replacement glass, which is usually slightly thinner than original. The 1/32" is too thin and would have to be cemented in place. "The Filling Station" in Lebanon, Oregon has finally started to sell the correct 3/64" tape, which seems to work well with both original glass and replacement glass. Part number is CV-294C. Also, most places recommend a rubber lube or soapy water to aid in sliding the glass into place. An old body man I talked to told me to use boiled linseed oil. Soapy water or rubber lube dries out to fast and prevents perfect placement in the frame. Linseed oil stays slippery for several days, allowing you to get the assembly in place in the door and still be able to adjust the glass in the frame to make it fit perfectly against the seal on the division bar. When the linseed oil eventually dries, it actually act as a glue and holds the glass tightly in the frame. As far as rivets go, I made my own out of stainless steel. Of course having a lathe is a big advantage when it comes to that. You might check with "Fastenall" or another fastener company to see what they have.
Can you describe for me the proper steps to install the rubber seal into the vent window support frame (the painted frame which has the channel for the heavy rubber seal, and the pivot points for the vent window)? And do I understand that the installation of the vent window rubber seal should be done simultaneously with the installation of the glass into the chome plated frame, so that the wet linseed oil will enable the slipping/sliding of all these parts in order to facilitate the necessary adjustments?
No, the two are put together individually. You’ll need a couple of large clamps to put the vent window glass into the chromed frame. Take the setting tape and wrap it around the glass and basically you need to use the clamps to push the glass the rest of the way into the frame. I cut a piece of wood and put that along the outside edge of the vent window and clamped onto the protected chrome frame. If you re-chrome your vent window the required thickness of the setting tape may change so I would buy a couple sizes, they aren’t that expensive and it needs to be tight. The tap is made with cork so it will compress. Don’t put any pressure on the post.
The rubber in the frame is easy but you need to glue the rubber in place. I put the glass in the chrome frame first then fit up the glass, rubber and frame. The frame will fit okay back into the door but it is hard to get the rubber in the frame correctly so that it overlaps the door edge and you can still close the vent window. Once I put everything together, I put the glue under the rubber and closed the vent window to set everything in place. The rubber I bought was thicker than what I took out (or the old rubber had shrunk) but it was hard to put in and close the vent window.
Charlie, I use this supplier for many of the one off items I need. I got stainless rivets from them and polished the heads. They also have a presence at Charlotte, Hershey and Carlisle. Mike
Charlie, I am still interested and tried to send you a PM to work out the details. I was unable to so I'll contact you via email. Restoration Specialties has been very helpful to me. Mike
