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'34 Master engine questions #232265
01/27/12 12:40 AM
01/27/12 12:40 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
Pat S Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Pat S  Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
I've been trying to start my rebuilt engine but no such luck. After checking and re-checking everything, I decided to bite the bullet and remove the front cover. Sure enough...cam is in the wrong position. I had removed it during the assembly to get at a bolt I had forgotten on the front plate. So now I have to take everything off, reposition it and try again. Please don't laugh.

1- Removing the rocker arm assemblies, pushrods, lifters and the fuel pump should allow me to remove the cam ,shouldn't it? Or is there anything else?

2-I am planning to replace the old wafer type carb insulator with the new solid one I received from FS. Does the gasket go between the carb and the insulator or between the manifold and the insulator? Or should there be two?







3-The fitting where the heat gauge sensor goes has a nipple in it to accommodate a heater hose. I'm not planning to install a heater. What plug should I use or do these fittings exist without the hole for the nipple?

4-Does anyone have either the neck or upper tank for a '34 Master for sale?


Last edited by Pat S; 01/27/12 12:41 AM.

Best Regards, Pat
The Filling Station 1933-36
Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Pat S] #232286
01/27/12 03:05 AM
01/27/12 03:05 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 25,142
West Allis,Wi.
Chev Nut Offline

Chev Nut  Offline


ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 25,142
West Allis,Wi.
#1
Can't think of any thing else.
#2
As long as the surfaces are clean NO gasket is necessary - the factory didn't use one (or two)
#3
Remove the fitting and thread the temp. sender directly into the head.
#4
?


Chevgene
Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Pat S] #232291
01/27/12 03:39 AM
01/27/12 03:39 AM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 25
McAlpin Florida
U
usa1933 Offline

Grease Monkey
usa1933  Offline

Grease Monkey
U
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 25
McAlpin Florida
I think that the distributor has to be removed in order to remove the camshaft

Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: usa1933] #232300
01/27/12 04:39 AM
01/27/12 04:39 AM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 16,692
The Great State of TEXAS
Chipper Offline

Chipper  Offline


ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 16,692
The Great State of TEXAS
Yes the distributor too. And the two screws or bolts holding the thrust (retaining) plate.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Chipper] #232304
01/27/12 04:58 AM
01/27/12 04:58 AM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,326
Iowa
Uncle Ed Offline

ChatMaster - 1,000
Uncle Ed  Offline

ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,326
Iowa
#4......... Do you mean the upper neck (hose connection) and tank for the radiator?


Ed
Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Uncle Ed] #232317
01/27/12 10:45 AM
01/27/12 10:45 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
Pat S Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Pat S  Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
Thanks everyone, and yes, the ditributor.

And...#4......... Do you mean the upper neck (hose connection) and tank for the radiator?
_________________________
Ed, I mean the filler neck. The FS cap I got doesn't fit because the notches on my neck are in the wrong orientation and the rim too shallow. The tabs don't catch.


Best Regards, Pat
Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Chev Nut] #232449
01/28/12 05:23 PM
01/28/12 05:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
Pat S Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Pat S  Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
Originally Posted By: Chev Nut
#1
Can't think of any thing else.
#2
As long as the surfaces are clean NO gasket is necessary - the factory didn't use one (or two)
#3
Remove the fitting and thread the temp. sender directly into the head.
#4
?


The temperature sender has smaller threads than the hole in the head. Is there a simple plumbing fitting that would do the trick?


Last edited by Pat S; 01/28/12 05:25 PM.

Best Regards, Pat
Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Pat S] #232451
01/28/12 05:33 PM
01/28/12 05:33 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
Pat S Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Pat S  Offline OP

ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,816
Kapuskasing, ON
[quote=Pat S]I've been trying to start my rebuilt engine but no such luck. After checking and re-checking everything, I decided to bite the bullet and remove the front cover. Sure enough...cam is in the wrong position. I had removed it during the assembly to get at a bolt I had forgotten on the front plate. So now I have to take everything off, reposition it and try again. Please don't laugh.

She's a done deal.Here 'tis'



Now, I have spark, I have gas (at least to the carb),I put the bead in the window with both valves on #1 closed, the rotor points to #1 lead, still won't start. Removed the plugs and tried to take a compression test, all I get is 35 lbs. Do you need revs for something to register on the compression gauge? It turns fairly slow even with the 12 volt battery. What else?

Someone suggested putting gas directly into the carb to help it start. How much? A thimble full or a cup or something in between.


Best Regards, Pat
Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Pat S] #232498
01/29/12 12:35 AM
01/29/12 12:35 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,663
Vancouver, WA
AntiqueMechanic Offline

AntiqueMechanic  Offline


ChatMaster - 9,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,663
Vancouver, WA



OK, if you are gonna remove the water heater connection, you will need a reducer in order to screw the sending unit into the head directly.


devil Agrin


RAY
Member Chat Group - Non-Geographical Region

Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.

Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: Pat S] #232500
01/29/12 12:49 AM
01/29/12 12:49 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,663
Vancouver, WA
AntiqueMechanic Offline

AntiqueMechanic  Offline


ChatMaster - 9,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,663
Vancouver, WA


You may be ahead of yourself. First you need to get the engine turning freely. Remove the plugs and use the 12-volt battery to give it a spin. That should really spin it over. After spinning it for a while and with the pan off you can feel the throws and mains for a worm/hot one that would indicate they were too tight. This would also be the time to check compression with all plugs out. If you don't achieve ~100 lbs ea then the alinement of the cam and crank would be in question. Also the adjustment of the valves.

Let us know how this plays out.

devil Agrin


RAY
Member Chat Group - Non-Geographical Region

Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.

Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


Re: '34 Master engine questions [Re: AntiqueMechanic] #232570
01/29/12 03:39 PM
01/29/12 03:39 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 598
California
P.U. Guy Offline

Oil Can Mechanic
P.U. Guy  Offline

Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 598
California
Pat, sent you a PM.
Richard


I try to be the person my dog thought I was.

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