VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Gas pedal linkage and connection

My 26 does not have a thermostat,and I also had a heating problem. It turned out to be blockage from rust and crude build up. My cure was to drain the radiator,fill with fresh water and a couple of tablespoons of Lye. After allowing the lye to work for about 20 minutes,I then drained the rad removed both top and bottom hoses and flushed the block with a garden hose. Couldn't beleive the crude that came out. When the water started flowing clean I replaced the hose's refilled the rad with a 50/50 anti freeze mixture,and I've never had a heating problem again.

Dan, thank you again. This may be the least expensive most understandable piece of info I've received yet (understandable in that EVEN I CAN UNDERSTAND). This is definitely my next move. If it works for me like it did for you, I'm going to hug your neck and give you a big......ah, well, I'll have my lovely wife give you a big kiss on the cheek! Ha, ha. This would definitely be a huge WOW if it solves my problem.

I can't thank everyone enough for all the help and suggestions.
Jerry

Getting my kicks in a 26

Dan, after you put in the lye, did you run the vehicle for 20 minutes or just let it set inside the engine for 20 minutes? Don't I need to get it moving throughout the engine? So, after 20 minutes, did you have to let the entire engine cool down before flushing or did you flush immediately?

If your problem is grease or oil contamination in the cooling system then lye is the chemical to add to remove it. However if rust or hard water deposits are the problem (most likely) then dilute muriatic acid is a better cleaner. I dilute between a pint and quart of acid in a pail of water (add acid to water, NEVER WATER TO ACID!). Add acid slowly with stirring. Add the acid mixture to radiator and run engine for 5-10 minutes, let cool down and repeat several times. If you hear a noise (bumping sound) coming from the engine when it is not running the acid is still working. Drain the mixture, flush several times with water and dispose of safely. Mix a box of baking soda in a bucket of water. Add a small amount of the last drain water to the solution (no remaining solids), if it bubbles flush again. Now add the solution to the cooling system and circulate, drain and replace coolant.

Be sure to wear protective clothing and eye protection while doing the cleaning, no matter what cleaning method is used.

That makes sense Chipper. I am getting hopeful that the old gal is on the road to recovery. At least she is (or will be) on the road to somewhere instead of confined to my garage!

Chipper, I am going to try this either this afternoon or by the weekend. When you mix the acid with the water, just to clarify, do you drain about 1 quart of water from the radiator before putting in the mixture or completely drain the radiator and only put in the mixture. Silly question if you already know the answer but not silly if like me you don't know the answer. I want to do this the right way. Secondly, if I let this drain onto the driveway and wash it with water and the baking soda, it shouldn't hurt anything should it?
tks,
Jerry

Sounds like Chipper has a great idea for rust removal, although the lye will also remove hard water deposits as well. I actually ran the engine for about 15 minutes then let it sit about 5 minutes before draining. I did let the engine cool before the flush. But as Chipper said no matter which route you choose, wear protection. You will be playing with toxic chemicals. Do not breath in the fumes.

Seriously, I still don't know if I drain only the 1 qt fluid from the radiator and then pour in the mixture or if I drain it all out and pour in just the mixture amount and then run the engine for 5-10 minutes. Anyone????

If you only have water and not antifreeze or inhibitors, then you only have to drain the amount to get space for what you are adding.

If you have antifreeze or rust inhibitors then drain and flushing with clear water is recommended. The additives will interact with the cleaner and reduce the cleaning.

Ahhhhh, okay I understand now. Thank you everyone.

Hi Guys,

All this talk about acid, bubbling, baking soda etc. 4 years ago I simply used a few litres of a pre mixed clear rust converter, suitable for cast iron, and safe with yellow metals. I took off the water pump and sealed the opening. I completely filled the block, let it sit for 8 hours, then took to it with a high pressure hose flushing continuously for about 10 minutes. The amount of rust flakes and brown residue that came out was amazing. The inside of the block to this day still remains what I would describe as a slight gun metal blue or grey finish. The car never overheats and never uses water. The radiator was not involved in this process.

Just the same result as mentioned in earlier postings, but from another direction.

Regards

Ray

With both the top hose and the bottom hose removed. Run water in the top of the radiator and see if it comes out the bottom as fast as you are putting it in.

Motor off, run the hose in the outlet on the head. You should see rusty water coming out the bottom. Continue to run until the water is clear.

Connect the bottom hose and run the engine while placing water in the radiator. Be careful and don't look down the outlet on the head as it may form steam and could give you some damage. Run until water is clear or you have a strong stream.

I'm just wondering what the brand of the rust conversion product was that 1928isGreat used on his car. Maybe we can find an analog in the States for that. Has anybody else tried this?

As Sonny and Cher would say..."and the beat goes on." The saga of the overheating radiator.

I emptied the radiator, mixed the muratic acid with water, (see posts above) poured it in the radiator, started the engine and ran it for about 5 minutes and drained. When engine cooled I re-did the same and after the 2nd fill, finally flushed with clean water. Then, I filled and let it sit over night. The next day I drained, opened both hoses and did a continuous flush and started the engine for a few minutes...then, closed petcock and reinstalled hoses. This morning I drained the water and replaced it with 50/50 antifreeze. I went for a ride in the neighborhood for about 6-7 miles at a fairly slow speed. When I got home, the radiator overflowed and released less than or about one cup of antifreeze and then stopped. Would you say this is normal or do I still have a problem that needs worked on? I'm hoping someone is going to tell me that when I turned off the engine, the water pump simply stopped working and the hot, expanded liquid simply rose in the radiator neck and overflowed. Somebody tell me that please!

I think I can vouch for what happened to you as being an expected result. Now comes the proof. Do not add any more liquid to the radiator. Take another trip and see if you get the same results or does it not 'burp' this time. You are getting closer to solving your problem.

Antique, I am almost afraid to let these words out of my mouth...but I drove the truck a short distance, just a few miles, parked it for awhile and then drove back home. Guess what? Ner a single drop from the radiator. Tomorrow I will go for a longer ride and more time in the saddle to see how she holds up. As long as I avoid stop signs and redlights (reference the other post about brakes), I should do just fine. I've got my fingers and toes crossed...well, and my eyes too!

tks for the response, I hope we are all learning something,

Jerry

Hi Dansker,

The product I use is Ranex Rustbuster, and the email address is

http://www.bondall.com/mainsite/index.html

Go into products, then specialised, then the second one on the list is Ranex Rustbuster.

The product in OZ sells for about $25 AUD a litre, and the good news is it can be reused time after time. For example if I was cleaning up a water pump housing, I would clean the loose surface muck of the housing and soak it in a plastic container, just big enough to fit the housing.

When you have finished, strain the liquid through several layers of rags back into the bottle. Yes it will be a a darker colour, but it still is useable.

Remember, read the instructions.

If its available in the States I would like to know what you think of it.

Regards

Ray

Looks like the same type of product as Ospho and a number of conversion type products here in the states.

Ray

Thanks for the response. I'll see what I can find out.

Dan and everyone that offered suggestions on my gas pedal hook-up. I wanted to let all of you know that based on the pictures, suggestions and encouraging words, it worked! I had to fabricate a piece of coathanger to complete the linkage and with a little guessing and a lot of luck the darn things actually works. Saturday night I even got to drive it to a little shindig (using the gas pedal instead of the accelerator on the column), and boy oh boy was it nice to be able to shift, give hand signals, hang on to the steering and dodge the oncoming traffic...all the while with my foot on the pedal. I felt like I was living in the lap of luxury! She is going to become my daily driver if this keeps up! What a difference a day makes.

tks all,
Jerry

My 26, would you be so kind as to send me some pictures of your truck? It looks like I have an imposter and I would greatly appreciate something to compare with. Any outside pictures you have available would be super. My email is dubiousrunner@hotmail.com

tks so much,
Jerry