I'm so new to this site that I'm still wet behind my ears! I have a 1926 Chevy pickup with only the hand throttle hooked up. I bought a gas pedal with rod attached. I have no earthly idea how this is supposed to hook up. I think I am missing some linkage or something. Does anyone have drawings or pictures (or parts list) to help me hook up a gas pedal? Help! Also, I am not sure if I have a 1/2 ton or a 1 ton. Anybody want to clue me in as to how to tell the difference?
Thanks so very much everyone, and hello to everyone down-under.
Jerry

Welcome to ChatII.

I will try to describe the linkage so you can understand it.

The gas pedal rod has a 90 deg. bend in the far end. That fits into a two armed bellcrank held by a bracket on the starter motor cover. The other arm has another rod with 90 deg. bend one each end. One in the bellcrank and the other to the inboard hole on the throttle arm. The outboard (away from the engine) hole has a rod extending down to the throttle arm on the steering column.

I'll see if I can get the boss to take a couple of photos but may not be able to post them for a couple of days.

Thank you Chipper, the photos and your description may help me finally. It is sooooooooo good to talk with people all from the same tribe. That is, people that speak "old vehicle" language and have the same love of the vintage. I think I am finally where I belong and feel at home already.
Jerry

The gas pedal rod connects directly to the carburetor.

The gas pedal connects directly to the carburetor in 1929-1931 Chevys but uses a linkage on the late 4 cylinders and '32 and later. Earlier 4 cylinders used direct attaching pedals.

I'm still hoping someone has drawings, schematic or pictures of this linkage, and am looking forward to hopefully get pictures from Chipper. Words help describe but pictures tell it all. I do know if it isn't hooked up correctly that is isn't going to work. As all of you know, when you are driving, you almost need another hand to help steer, adjust the spark, adjust the hand throttle, shift gears and keep it between the white lines. A foot throttle would make life oh so much simplier!

Tks in advance,
Jerry

If you go back to posting Throttle linkage there are pictures there as I had the same questions. The posting was late January 2010 in this same forum.
Thanks
Woodbutcher

Some of the parts are illustrated on page 40 of the four cylinder parts book which is on the Old Car Manual Project website. The link http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1916_28parts/cp4cm40.htm should take you to that page. It may give you an idea how the accelerator linkage works.

Thank you guys, this is helpful. Woodbutcher, I did not find the topic you spoke of. For some reason I can only go back to page two, which is around Apr/May of this year. I'll keep trying!
Were you able to solve your problem? I feel that if I could just see how it connects that I'd be home free.

Jerry,

Here is the topic Woodbutcher was refering to:

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/163955/1

Happy Motoring,

Dan

Woodbutcher, I found it and is just what the doctor ordered. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can!

Much appreciated.

Doing tricks with my 26,
Jerry

Dan, thank you very much. I am overwhelmed with everyones willingness to help. Where have I been all this time? Thank you all for the replies and help.

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

I have a 26 1/2 ton pickup I finished last year it was a ground up. If you have any questions.please ask I will try to answer.
Woodbutcher

Dan and all, I was able to hook up the gas petal with the help of a coathanger and some...ah...boondoggle, but for the first time since I've had the truck, the gas petal actually works! It will need some fine tuning but, thanks to everyone, it works! The next major problem is overheating, which was an inherited problem also. I replaced the seal in the water pump, had the radiator re-cored, bought a new radiator cap, replaced all the hoses, new anti-freeze, keep the spark adjustment at full advance when driving or under load...and it overheats EVERY time I take it out, even just around the block!

Any help anyone can offer would be appreciated. I know I can't be the first guy that has had this problem. BTW Dan, would you mind if I sent your a PM? I am at dubiousrunner@hotmail.com
tks,
Jerry

Did you replace the thermostat!? You may need to pop out the freeze plugs and clean out the block.

Why do you keep the spark advance at full? Seems like early timing would wouldn't be good for it. We need advance here at 6000 feet (1 degree per 1000 feet), but when we head down even a couple thousand feet I can feel the difference and usually stop to retard it a bit.

Hi Richard, I did not replace the thermostat and in fact did not know a 26 even had one! As for the spark at full advance, after starting a cold engine with spark at retard or half advance, my book tells me to push it to full advance to keep it from overheating. Am I wrong?

tks,
Jerry

Hi Jerry,



Not at all, send away.

As for spark advance, at least on the early 6's, full advance is what the timing should be at for running. In fact, we have now set the advance up 6 degrees, at 18 degrees as opposed to the original 12 degrees. The Repair and Owner's Manuals both list retarded spark as a cause for overheating. Based on advice from some of the older and wiser folks on this site, the first thing I did to my car after buying it, was to change (i.e. advance) the timing and spark plug gap (increased from 0.25 to 0.40). To say the least, it made a noticeable improvement.

Dan

Well, I didn't know, so I went and looked it up here: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fclymer/2950fccoh/2950fccoh041.html

And a 1926, it has a thermostat too?

According to the manual it does; right below the upper radiator hose. Yours may be missing, but that would indicate problems inside the block like rust and sludge. Without a thermostat it place should run cooler longer but still get up to operating temperature and level out. It sounds like you have a thermostat stuck in the closed position.

The Capitol (1927) and National (1928) are the only 4-cylinder engines that have a thermostat. If you have a reference on the Series "V", please let me know.

Hi All,
My 26 does not have a thermostat, neither is there a place to put one. My 28 does have a thermostat. I had an over heating problem due to a cracked head. Relaced the head and problem was solved. You can start by removing the cover on the front of the head where the the upper radiator hose is conected. Go carefull on those bolts they may be frozzen in there.
Thanks
John

Wouldn't a cracked head show itself by leaking somewhere? Wouldn't I have water on the garage floor if the head was cracked? I'm just asking so I know what to look for. I want to drive this young lady so badly! BTW, exactly where is the freeze plug located on the 26? I know, I should be embarrassed to ask but by now nothing embarrasses me anymore.

Tks to everyone trying to help.

Heavyhands,
Check your oil and make sure it is not milky white. If it is it could be a craked head or bad head gasket. Mine did not show up until the crack became bigger. Then it showed up with a cloud of white exhaust. The crack was between the water jacket and the exhaust area that flows the exhaust to the single port in the center. Another thing you could try with both radiator hoses disconected and engine cold. Using a garden hose run water in at head radiator hose conection and see if water comes out freely from bottom of water pump. You may have a blockage some where. See if also the area of the head over the last 2 cylinders is as cool as the water you are putting in. If not you could have a blockage back there.
Thanks
John

Hi John,

Thank you, I've checked the oil (at least on the dip stick), and it seems fine. #1 Do you mean to run the garden hose in the top outlet near the radiator cap and let it run (pump) out the bottom, or does the water circulate from the bottom and out near the top? #2 how do I go about clearing out IF there is a blockage without making something else worse?

Sorry about all the questions but I honestly don't know and am relying on all you old salts (that's a compliment).

Jerry

My 26 does not have a thermostat,and I also had a heating problem. It turned out to be blockage from rust and crude build up. My cure was to drain the radiator,fill with fresh water and a couple of tablespoons of Lye. After allowing the lye to work for about 20 minutes,I then drained the rad removed both top and bottom hoses and flushed the block with a garden hose. Couldn't beleive the crude that came out. When the water started flowing clean I replaced the hose's refilled the rad with a 50/50 anti freeze mixture,and I've never had a heating problem again.

Dan, thank you again. This may be the least expensive most understandable piece of info I've received yet (understandable in that EVEN I CAN UNDERSTAND). This is definitely my next move. If it works for me like it did for you, I'm going to hug your neck and give you a big......ah, well, I'll have my lovely wife give you a big kiss on the cheek! Ha, ha. This would definitely be a huge WOW if it solves my problem.

I can't thank everyone enough for all the help and suggestions.
Jerry

Getting my kicks in a 26

Dan, after you put in the lye, did you run the vehicle for 20 minutes or just let it set inside the engine for 20 minutes? Don't I need to get it moving throughout the engine? So, after 20 minutes, did you have to let the entire engine cool down before flushing or did you flush immediately?

If your problem is grease or oil contamination in the cooling system then lye is the chemical to add to remove it. However if rust or hard water deposits are the problem (most likely) then dilute muriatic acid is a better cleaner. I dilute between a pint and quart of acid in a pail of water (add acid to water, NEVER WATER TO ACID!). Add acid slowly with stirring. Add the acid mixture to radiator and run engine for 5-10 minutes, let cool down and repeat several times. If you hear a noise (bumping sound) coming from the engine when it is not running the acid is still working. Drain the mixture, flush several times with water and dispose of safely. Mix a box of baking soda in a bucket of water. Add a small amount of the last drain water to the solution (no remaining solids), if it bubbles flush again. Now add the solution to the cooling system and circulate, drain and replace coolant.

Be sure to wear protective clothing and eye protection while doing the cleaning, no matter what cleaning method is used.

That makes sense Chipper. I am getting hopeful that the old gal is on the road to recovery. At least she is (or will be) on the road to somewhere instead of confined to my garage!

Chipper, I am going to try this either this afternoon or by the weekend. When you mix the acid with the water, just to clarify, do you drain about 1 quart of water from the radiator before putting in the mixture or completely drain the radiator and only put in the mixture. Silly question if you already know the answer but not silly if like me you don't know the answer. I want to do this the right way. Secondly, if I let this drain onto the driveway and wash it with water and the baking soda, it shouldn't hurt anything should it?
tks,
Jerry

Sounds like Chipper has a great idea for rust removal, although the lye will also remove hard water deposits as well. I actually ran the engine for about 15 minutes then let it sit about 5 minutes before draining. I did let the engine cool before the flush. But as Chipper said no matter which route you choose, wear protection. You will be playing with toxic chemicals. Do not breath in the fumes.

Seriously, I still don't know if I drain only the 1 qt fluid from the radiator and then pour in the mixture or if I drain it all out and pour in just the mixture amount and then run the engine for 5-10 minutes. Anyone????

If you only have water and not antifreeze or inhibitors, then you only have to drain the amount to get space for what you are adding.

If you have antifreeze or rust inhibitors then drain and flushing with clear water is recommended. The additives will interact with the cleaner and reduce the cleaning.

Ahhhhh, okay I understand now. Thank you everyone.

Hi Guys,

All this talk about acid, bubbling, baking soda etc. 4 years ago I simply used a few litres of a pre mixed clear rust converter, suitable for cast iron, and safe with yellow metals. I took off the water pump and sealed the opening. I completely filled the block, let it sit for 8 hours, then took to it with a high pressure hose flushing continuously for about 10 minutes. The amount of rust flakes and brown residue that came out was amazing. The inside of the block to this day still remains what I would describe as a slight gun metal blue or grey finish. The car never overheats and never uses water. The radiator was not involved in this process.

Just the same result as mentioned in earlier postings, but from another direction.

Regards

Ray

With both the top hose and the bottom hose removed. Run water in the top of the radiator and see if it comes out the bottom as fast as you are putting it in.

Motor off, run the hose in the outlet on the head. You should see rusty water coming out the bottom. Continue to run until the water is clear.

Connect the bottom hose and run the engine while placing water in the radiator. Be careful and don't look down the outlet on the head as it may form steam and could give you some damage. Run until water is clear or you have a strong stream.

I'm just wondering what the brand of the rust conversion product was that 1928isGreat used on his car. Maybe we can find an analog in the States for that. Has anybody else tried this?

As Sonny and Cher would say..."and the beat goes on." The saga of the overheating radiator.

I emptied the radiator, mixed the muratic acid with water, (see posts above) poured it in the radiator, started the engine and ran it for about 5 minutes and drained. When engine cooled I re-did the same and after the 2nd fill, finally flushed with clean water. Then, I filled and let it sit over night. The next day I drained, opened both hoses and did a continuous flush and started the engine for a few minutes...then, closed petcock and reinstalled hoses. This morning I drained the water and replaced it with 50/50 antifreeze. I went for a ride in the neighborhood for about 6-7 miles at a fairly slow speed. When I got home, the radiator overflowed and released less than or about one cup of antifreeze and then stopped. Would you say this is normal or do I still have a problem that needs worked on? I'm hoping someone is going to tell me that when I turned off the engine, the water pump simply stopped working and the hot, expanded liquid simply rose in the radiator neck and overflowed. Somebody tell me that please!

I think I can vouch for what happened to you as being an expected result. Now comes the proof. Do not add any more liquid to the radiator. Take another trip and see if you get the same results or does it not 'burp' this time. You are getting closer to solving your problem.

Antique, I am almost afraid to let these words out of my mouth...but I drove the truck a short distance, just a few miles, parked it for awhile and then drove back home. Guess what? Ner a single drop from the radiator. Tomorrow I will go for a longer ride and more time in the saddle to see how she holds up. As long as I avoid stop signs and redlights (reference the other post about brakes), I should do just fine. I've got my fingers and toes crossed...well, and my eyes too!

tks for the response, I hope we are all learning something,

Jerry

Hi Dansker,

The product I use is Ranex Rustbuster, and the email address is

http://www.bondall.com/mainsite/index.html

Go into products, then specialised, then the second one on the list is Ranex Rustbuster.

The product in OZ sells for about $25 AUD a litre, and the good news is it can be reused time after time. For example if I was cleaning up a water pump housing, I would clean the loose surface muck of the housing and soak it in a plastic container, just big enough to fit the housing.

When you have finished, strain the liquid through several layers of rags back into the bottle. Yes it will be a a darker colour, but it still is useable.

Remember, read the instructions.

If its available in the States I would like to know what you think of it.

Regards

Ray

Looks like the same type of product as Ospho and a number of conversion type products here in the states.

Ray

Thanks for the response. I'll see what I can find out.

Dan and everyone that offered suggestions on my gas pedal hook-up. I wanted to let all of you know that based on the pictures, suggestions and encouraging words, it worked! I had to fabricate a piece of coathanger to complete the linkage and with a little guessing and a lot of luck the darn things actually works. Saturday night I even got to drive it to a little shindig (using the gas pedal instead of the accelerator on the column), and boy oh boy was it nice to be able to shift, give hand signals, hang on to the steering and dodge the oncoming traffic...all the while with my foot on the pedal. I felt like I was living in the lap of luxury! She is going to become my daily driver if this keeps up! What a difference a day makes.

tks all,
Jerry

My 26, would you be so kind as to send me some pictures of your truck? It looks like I have an imposter and I would greatly appreciate something to compare with. Any outside pictures you have available would be super. My email is dubiousrunner@hotmail.com

tks so much,
Jerry