VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Gas pedal linkage and connection

I'm so new to this site that I'm still wet behind my ears! I have a 1926 Chevy pickup with only the hand throttle hooked up. I bought a gas pedal with rod attached. I have no earthly idea how this is supposed to hook up. I think I am missing some linkage or something. Does anyone have drawings or pictures (or parts list) to help me hook up a gas pedal? Help! Also, I am not sure if I have a 1/2 ton or a 1 ton. Anybody want to clue me in as to how to tell the difference?
Thanks so very much everyone, and hello to everyone down-under.
Jerry

Welcome to ChatII.

I will try to describe the linkage so you can understand it.

The gas pedal rod has a 90 deg. bend in the far end. That fits into a two armed bellcrank held by a bracket on the starter motor cover. The other arm has another rod with 90 deg. bend one each end. One in the bellcrank and the other to the inboard hole on the throttle arm. The outboard (away from the engine) hole has a rod extending down to the throttle arm on the steering column.

I'll see if I can get the boss to take a couple of photos but may not be able to post them for a couple of days.

Thank you Chipper, the photos and your description may help me finally. It is sooooooooo good to talk with people all from the same tribe. That is, people that speak "old vehicle" language and have the same love of the vintage. I think I am finally where I belong and feel at home already.
Jerry

The gas pedal rod connects directly to the carburetor.

The gas pedal connects directly to the carburetor in 1929-1931 Chevys but uses a linkage on the late 4 cylinders and '32 and later. Earlier 4 cylinders used direct attaching pedals.

I'm still hoping someone has drawings, schematic or pictures of this linkage, and am looking forward to hopefully get pictures from Chipper. Words help describe but pictures tell it all. I do know if it isn't hooked up correctly that is isn't going to work. As all of you know, when you are driving, you almost need another hand to help steer, adjust the spark, adjust the hand throttle, shift gears and keep it between the white lines. A foot throttle would make life oh so much simplier!

Tks in advance,
Jerry

If you go back to posting Throttle linkage there are pictures there as I had the same questions. The posting was late January 2010 in this same forum.
Thanks
Woodbutcher

Some of the parts are illustrated on page 40 of the four cylinder parts book which is on the Old Car Manual Project website. The link http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1916_28parts/cp4cm40.htm should take you to that page. It may give you an idea how the accelerator linkage works.

Thank you guys, this is helpful. Woodbutcher, I did not find the topic you spoke of. For some reason I can only go back to page two, which is around Apr/May of this year. I'll keep trying!
Were you able to solve your problem? I feel that if I could just see how it connects that I'd be home free.

Jerry,

Here is the topic Woodbutcher was refering to:

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/163955/1

Happy Motoring,

Dan

Woodbutcher, I found it and is just what the doctor ordered. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can!

Much appreciated.

Doing tricks with my 26,
Jerry

Dan, thank you very much. I am overwhelmed with everyones willingness to help. Where have I been all this time? Thank you all for the replies and help.

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

I have a 26 1/2 ton pickup I finished last year it was a ground up. If you have any questions.please ask I will try to answer.
Woodbutcher

Dan and all, I was able to hook up the gas petal with the help of a coathanger and some...ah...boondoggle, but for the first time since I've had the truck, the gas petal actually works! It will need some fine tuning but, thanks to everyone, it works! The next major problem is overheating, which was an inherited problem also. I replaced the seal in the water pump, had the radiator re-cored, bought a new radiator cap, replaced all the hoses, new anti-freeze, keep the spark adjustment at full advance when driving or under load...and it overheats EVERY time I take it out, even just around the block!

Any help anyone can offer would be appreciated. I know I can't be the first guy that has had this problem. BTW Dan, would you mind if I sent your a PM? I am at dubiousrunner@hotmail.com
tks,
Jerry

Did you replace the thermostat!? You may need to pop out the freeze plugs and clean out the block.

Why do you keep the spark advance at full? Seems like early timing would wouldn't be good for it. We need advance here at 6000 feet (1 degree per 1000 feet), but when we head down even a couple thousand feet I can feel the difference and usually stop to retard it a bit.

Hi Richard, I did not replace the thermostat and in fact did not know a 26 even had one! As for the spark at full advance, after starting a cold engine with spark at retard or half advance, my book tells me to push it to full advance to keep it from overheating. Am I wrong?

tks,
Jerry

Hi Jerry,



Not at all, send away.

As for spark advance, at least on the early 6's, full advance is what the timing should be at for running. In fact, we have now set the advance up 6 degrees, at 18 degrees as opposed to the original 12 degrees. The Repair and Owner's Manuals both list retarded spark as a cause for overheating. Based on advice from some of the older and wiser folks on this site, the first thing I did to my car after buying it, was to change (i.e. advance) the timing and spark plug gap (increased from 0.25 to 0.40). To say the least, it made a noticeable improvement.

Dan

Well, I didn't know, so I went and looked it up here: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fclymer/2950fccoh/2950fccoh041.html

And a 1926, it has a thermostat too?

According to the manual it does; right below the upper radiator hose. Yours may be missing, but that would indicate problems inside the block like rust and sludge. Without a thermostat it place should run cooler longer but still get up to operating temperature and level out. It sounds like you have a thermostat stuck in the closed position.

The Capitol (1927) and National (1928) are the only 4-cylinder engines that have a thermostat. If you have a reference on the Series "V", please let me know.

Hi All,
My 26 does not have a thermostat, neither is there a place to put one. My 28 does have a thermostat. I had an over heating problem due to a cracked head. Relaced the head and problem was solved. You can start by removing the cover on the front of the head where the the upper radiator hose is conected. Go carefull on those bolts they may be frozzen in there.
Thanks
John

Wouldn't a cracked head show itself by leaking somewhere? Wouldn't I have water on the garage floor if the head was cracked? I'm just asking so I know what to look for. I want to drive this young lady so badly! BTW, exactly where is the freeze plug located on the 26? I know, I should be embarrassed to ask but by now nothing embarrasses me anymore.

Tks to everyone trying to help.

Heavyhands,
Check your oil and make sure it is not milky white. If it is it could be a craked head or bad head gasket. Mine did not show up until the crack became bigger. Then it showed up with a cloud of white exhaust. The crack was between the water jacket and the exhaust area that flows the exhaust to the single port in the center. Another thing you could try with both radiator hoses disconected and engine cold. Using a garden hose run water in at head radiator hose conection and see if water comes out freely from bottom of water pump. You may have a blockage some where. See if also the area of the head over the last 2 cylinders is as cool as the water you are putting in. If not you could have a blockage back there.
Thanks
John

Hi John,

Thank you, I've checked the oil (at least on the dip stick), and it seems fine. #1 Do you mean to run the garden hose in the top outlet near the radiator cap and let it run (pump) out the bottom, or does the water circulate from the bottom and out near the top? #2 how do I go about clearing out IF there is a blockage without making something else worse?

Sorry about all the questions but I honestly don't know and am relying on all you old salts (that's a compliment).

Jerry