Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#149289 08/09/09 08:29 AM
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Jimmy B Offline OP
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G'day, where is the best place to get points for a '26?
Cheers
Jimmy
chevy

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Jimmy B #149309 08/09/09 02:09 PM
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Could you explain this somewhat more, please?

:vcca:


Solan G, # 32797

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Solan #149316 08/09/09 03:56 PM
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I think he is just looking for a vendor, like Gary Wallace or the Filling Station


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shawng #149321 08/09/09 05:53 PM
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He will get such points by both the mentioned companies.

:vcca:


Solan G, # 32797

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Solan #149341 08/09/09 09:36 PM
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Jimmy B Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Solan
Could you explain this somewhat more, please?

:vcca:
distributor points.


Shawng, thanks.

Jimmy
chevy

Jimmy B #149355 08/10/09 12:04 AM
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Hey Jimmy

Arnt you running a 25 motor in that roadster of yours. There seems to be a huge difference between prices for early and late distributor parts. Someone on ebay is advertising 1925 cap rotor and points for $150 US!!. You can buy a house and a few acres by the sea in NZ for that. The same parts for 1928 dizzi are much cheaper and I think you can fit them to 26 & 27 motors and you get the advantage of the auto advance. Just a thought.

Ken

BOPNZ #149363 08/10/09 02:06 AM
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There is a big difference in price between points for a generator driven 366P then a cam driven 374A. which one are you looking for???


Steve
'25 Superior "K", '79 Corvette , '72 Corvette LT-1 & 1965 Corvette Coupe
BOPNZ #149364 08/10/09 05:13 AM
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Jimmy B Offline OP
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G'day Ken, I have a '26 motor that only needs points so I am using that till I can afford to rebuild the '25.

Prices are expensive if I could get a good '28 distributor & cap I could use the new points out of my '29 motor.
Cheers
Jimmy

Originally Posted by BOPNZ
Hey Jimmy

Arnt you running a 25 motor in that roadster of yours. There seems to be a huge difference between prices for early and late distributor parts. Someone on ebay is advertising 1925 cap rotor and points for $150 US!!. You can buy a house and a few acres by the sea in NZ for that. The same parts for 1928 dizzi are much cheaper and I think you can fit them to 26 & 27 motors and you get the advantage of the auto advance. Just a thought.

Ken

Jimmy B #149653 08/13/09 02:13 AM
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The points from a 28 and late 27 will NOT fit an early 27 or any model 26. Also a late 27 or 28 distributor will not go in a 26 block or an early 27 block
Chris

chevguroo #149687 08/13/09 06:22 PM
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Jimmy B Offline OP
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Originally Posted by chevguroo
The points from a 28 and late 27 will NOT fit an early 27 or any model 26. Also a late 27 or 28 distributor will not go in a 26 block or an early 27 block
Chris
Chris, thanks for the info. Do you know of anyone who sells '26 points in Australia?
Cheers
Jimmy
chevy

Jimmy B #149759 08/15/09 01:34 AM
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No but there are plenty on ebay
Chris

chevguroo #149803 08/15/09 05:26 PM
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can someone explain why the 28 distributor (635B) cant be adapted to a 26 engine block.

BOPNZ #149809 08/15/09 07:36 PM
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The 1927 and 1926 distributors are secured in one position only. If you look at the '26/'27 block below the distributor entry hole you will see a threaded set screw held in place by a jam nut. This threaded screw is tapered at the inner end and fits into a tapered hole in the distributor main column. There is a second similar set screw/jam nut arrangement below the one mentioned that holds the oil pump in position. On this system timing is altered by removing the distributor cap and rotor, loosening a jam nun on the upper end of the main shaft and rotating the four lobed cam about its tapered seat one way or the other and securing the jam nut. The base plate which holds the points is designed with some rotational movement and is attached to the mechanical linkage of the steering column.

The 1928 engine block has an added embossment at the distributor entry hole location which is machined flat 90º to the distributor shaft. There is an additional clamp type device that is secured to this flat surface and inturn clamps to the distributor main column. Timing on this system is accomplished by loosening the clamp and rotating the distributor within the clamp. There is no set screw/jam nut for the distributor on this system but the oil pump set screw/jam nut is still used and can be seen below the distributor assembly. The distributor base plate (plate that the points are attached to) on this system is fixed in position and does not move with respect to the distributor. The clamp that holds the distributor in place has a provision for some rotational movement and is attached to the mechanical linkage of the steering column.

Last edited by Oldie; 08/15/09 07:39 PM.
Oldie #149811 08/15/09 07:56 PM
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Brilliant. Thanks for that Oldie. crystal clear now.

BOPNZ #149828 08/16/09 05:45 AM
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so lets clarify - if you can work out a way of preventing the 635B from jumping for freedom from the 1926 block perhaps by way of a customized bracket using the set screw maybe, and the installation of a suitable advance retard mechanism, a 28 dizzy could be made to operate in a 26 block or is the degree of advance and retard achievable with the 635B inadequate?. I realize such questions a blasphemy to the purist but humour me, this is purely an academic if somewhat naive question.

BOPNZ #149834 08/16/09 08:47 AM
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Oldie have explain it a splendid way.

I think you can use a 635B if you can made a suitable bracket for the hold down screw (A).

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BOPNZ #149869 08/16/09 07:43 PM
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The distributor advance in degrees for the early '26/'27 374-A distributor(which is a full manual advance/retard type)is 30 degreess nominally,but I have seen and repaired some that have a 25 degree advance limiting plate,though this may be from the even earlier 366-P distributor.
The 635-B distributor has an automatic centrifugal advance of 20 degrees which starts to come into effect at speeds over 22mph.this coupled with the initial spark setting of 25 degrees before top dead centre,would more than likely could pinging,pre-ignition and over heating in a '26.
It could be done,but to get the initial ignition setting would be pure experimentation,and if not correct,may cause a severe enough backfire to wreck your starter motor.

chevy


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