VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 '38 Chevy won't start

OK. I'm the guy with the stuck in the garage Chevy. Good news, I finally got impatient, the rain quit and I hooked up a chain to it and pulled it out of the garage. So then we hooked up a gas can and tried to start it (It hasn't run in 5-6 years?)It took a bit, but gas finally appeared in the fuel pump bowl. Carburetor didn't appear to be getting gas. Finally, it appears to be getting gas. When you pull the throttle as you crank it, gas shoots out of the jet. It doesn't appear to be getting spark. What's next? I'm a real novice at this. Could it be the coil. Other question, when you turn the ignition key straight up, it cranks. When you turn it to the right, it cranks. When you pull the key out, it cranks. But is it possible that any of these settings will allow it to crank, but won't allow it to start. Any help out there? I know this is a bad time of day to be asking. There seems to be some trick to the chat site search engine and I haven't got that figured out yet.
Thanks.
David

The starter will crank with the key in any of the positions or with the key in your pocket. The switch turned to the clockwise position will allow the ignition to "connect" and the engine run. When attempting to start with key in this position the spark plug wires should recieve an eletrical "jolt" when cranking the engine. To test remove one wire and hold metal connector end about 1/8" from a clean part of the engine metal. You should see a spark jump the gap. ...while turning over with starter...also you will get a shock if you hold directly to the connector so touch only the rubber insulated part of the wire a inch or so from the connector. The engine needs two things to run. Spark at the plugs and a little fuel from the carburetor.

This will be step one. :)

It's not unusual for the points to be stuck, especially after setting so long.

Rather than stuck they may be corroded and not making contact. A point file, or fine sandpaper should clean them enough for running.

As already posted you need to have electricity at the spark plugs. Corrosion of the points, bad grounding of points and/or condenser, corrosion on the rotor or terminals inside the distributor cap are all common problems with prolonged storage. Once you get spark then you can add a bit of gas or carburetor cleaner to carb to get it to fire even if carb or fuel system are not operating. That is assuming that not more than a couple of valves are stuck, have bad seals or otherwise not sealing properly.

OK. Thanks guys. I tried checked for spark at the plugs, but I did that wrong, which could be why no spark. Also pulled the distributor cap and cranked it, no spark. Point was opening and closing, but no spark. Filed it a bit with a point file, no results. Wire from coil to distributor is bare, will try to replace. Am wondering, where is source of power for coil. From the generator. There is one large wire that is not connected that comes from some place on the dash. I'm thinking coil is bad or not getting juice? How do I remove the coil? I know you take out two screws that bolt it to the block, and disconnect nut at bottom holding a wire. However, there is still the main wire coming directing from the ignition into the top of the coil. How does that disconnect? Is the top of the coil supposed to pop off? It's a tad loose, but won't disconnect. The wire doesn't seem to want to pop out or disconnect. Still plugging away, still learning. Want to get it running quickly so I can (A.) drive it and (B.)not get ticketed for having junk in the driveway. Then I'll deal with bracket and wire issues. Found out the replacement tailight I bought on e-bay isn't quite the replacement, although I'll be able to use lenses. Thanks for the help.

The coil should have a armoured cable leading from the cap on the coil to ignition switch on the dash.

on the bottom of the coil is a wire which connects to the side of the distibutor.

With the key switched on at the dash, you should get about 6 volts at the connection on the side of the distributor.Try with 6 volt globe if you don't have a multimeter.

If you cant get voltage to this connection there may be something
wrong with your coil or electrock switch.

It is also possible to run another coil straight from the battery positive terminal, to the positive terminal on the coil. Then connect another wire from the negative on the coil to the connection on the distributor.

if this doesnt give you spark your condensor may be shorted out and not allow voltage to the contact points.

Thanks, Jack. As we speak, it has begun to rain again, so yet another delay. I'll get me a meter and start there. If I have to remove the coil, how would I do that? Does that cap come off? My dad says if I do that, I'll screw it up (if it isn't already.
David

David,
The cap on the top of the distributor needs to be turned a little like the lid on a pill bottle (or on some gas filler caps) to allow it to be raised slightly off the coil body. However the wire inside the armored cabel will stll be connected to the coil top and will have to be unscrewed. So the idea is to twist and lift and then get access to the wire connection. Good luck.
Mike

PM me you e-mail addy. I'll send you a scan showing how the electrolock cap is removed. Also I STRONGLY recommend that you remove, clean & coat (if necessary) your fuel tank BEFORE you start your engine. Any old fuel in the tank will be varnish by now. Any fresh gas you put in the tank will dissolve some of the varnish which can coat the shaft of your intake valves. If it's bad enough to stick one or more shut you'll bend pushrods or worse the next time you try to start the engine. I pass this on based on personal experience (two bent pushrods). If you can't wait to hear it run use another fuel source such as a lawnmower gas tank with a line running to the fuel pump.

David.

Keep in mind, that the contact points in the distibutor are
the ground (-ve) for the ignition coil, so that when the points are closed the coil is in complete electrical circuit, and when the points are open the coil circuit is open.
On your multimeter Black -ve lead to ground, and red +ve to the wire on the distributor with points open.

It is the breaking off of the current at the points that causes the magnetic field in the coil to collapse ( in the primary coil windings)and causes the high voltage to flow in the secondary windings( spark side of the coil)

With the points closed the meter should read zero volts and points open it should read battery voltage or very close to it.
Tony

OK. Sorry. Been running around trying to help prepare for an auction and dodge the rain. Not doing too well with either. I am running gas from a can as the tank is removed and was cleaned (It was not very old). I think in your first sentence you are asking me to send you my e-mail address. Be delighted as soon as I figure out how to do that. Also, what is the trick for using the chat search engine. I plugged in starter, starter problems under 37-28 chevy and got no hits. Then it says I have to wait a while before searching again. Given how well the rest of the site works, I must be doing something wrong for the search engine to work so poorly.
Thanks.

David.

To send a PM (personal Message) to a fellow chat site member, click with your mouse pointer on the person's user name in the top left corner of the chat site thread. It is blue and underlined, indicating that a drop-down menu box will appear, if you click on it.

When the box drops down, click on "send a PM" and type in your personal home email address if you so desire.

A PM will be sent to the person and will appear in "My Stuff" line next to " Forum list, User List, Active Topics ,ETC" all marked in Blue and underlined.

When the person responds, to your PM your " My stuff" will flash and indicate that you have recieved a PM in return.

HAVE you got any Spark yet???