VCCA Home Forums Thread Like Summary - 36 engine oil pan

1.) Do I need to remove the engine to change the oil pan gasket or

2.) If all fenders and hood and front grill are off, how difficult is it to pull the engine out and change all gaskets, paint
and reinstall, I'm doing all this myself with friends' help.

San Tan Valley Hot Rods wants 11 hours of Labor?

Leave it alone. When something happens that dictates pulling the engine then do so. Messing with it now will trigger the notion that more and more is needed whilst you have the engine out and on an engine stand. Here are some consideration that may pop up:

a. As you say all gaskets and clean out plugs will invite replacement including timing gears cover.

b. While in there you will want to resurface the transmission's clutch release (throw=-out) bearing and maybe resurface/replace the pressure plate, new clutch dixc, etc.

c. Resurface the exhaust and intake manifolds and install new gaskets there.

d. Pull the head and do a valve job. Leading to a complete overhaul/rebuild of the engine.

e. Replace the timing gears.

f. And on and on and more and more. The temptation to keep doing things to the engine will become compelling. You started out just wanting to replace the pan gasket, clean and paint the engine. You get the picture?

Sludge in the pan doesn't hurt anything unless it plugs up the oil pump screen and/or dippers.sufficient to starve those parts. Generally it just sits there in the bottom of the pan not bothering anybody.

Just run and enjoy it until it starts knocking. It'll save you money on beer for your buddies.

Good luck with whatever your decision happens to be. You're welcome to my sound, sage advice.

Best,

Charlie

To remove the oil pan on a 1936 Standard you MAY have to remove one end of the tie rod and drop tie rod out of the way. This process plus removing the pan should take an amature a few hours.
The Chevrolet shop time to replace the pan gasket was less than two hours.
Make sure it is the pan gasket that is leaking, There are several more common
places for oil to leak making look like it is the pan gasket such as the fuel pump, side cover or rocker arm cover gaskets or the rear main bearing (which has no seal).

I respectfully disagree with Charlie about leaving the sludge.

Although I don't know much about inline 6 engines, I've had a few of the 4 cylinder engines apart and they also use a splash lubrication system in the block.

With the oil pan off, look for sludge in the oil reservoirs (above the main and cam bearings). You can see them from the bottom with a little inspection mirror and a flashlight. It is important to get the sludge out of these reservoirs, otherwise your bearings are at risk for not getting the lubrication that they need.

Qtips work nicely for cleaning out the reservoirs.

When you are ready to put the oil pan back on, squirt a little 10-30W oil into the reservoirs so there will be some lubrication at those places when you fire the engine back up.

Cheers, Dean

To do the work listed above it will be much easier with the engine out-especially for the area of the block under the cowl. Also a good time to change any freeze plugs in the back and do some internal block cleaning. Might sound like a lot of additional work but considering what would be required if it was all back together a good investment .

If you already have the tin ware off the front You have similar access to the engine as with it out and no extra work to get it there. I would be doing the gasket change with the engine fixed to the frame.
Tony

Marco SR,

Note old216's post above.

You will surely find that it will be relatively easy to rebuild the whole steering mechanism and brakes while you have the engine out.

See what I was saying?


Best,

Charlie

When I pulled the engine in my 38, I realized that I had exceptional access to the brake lines so I changed them all out.