Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
#471324 06/25/22 01:09 PM
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
1.) Do I need to remove the engine to change the oil pan gasket or

2.) If all fenders and hood and front grill are off, how difficult is it to pull the engine out and change all gaskets, paint
and reinstall, I'm doing all this myself with friends' help.

San Tan Valley Hot Rods wants 11 hours of Labor?

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
To remove the oil pan on a 1936 Standard you MAY have to remove one end of the tie rod and drop tie rod out of the way. This process plus removing the pan should take an amature a few hours.
The Chevrolet shop time to replace the pan gasket was less than two hours.
Make sure it is the pan gasket that is leaking, There are several more common
places for oil to leak making look like it is the pan gasket such as the fuel pump, side cover or rocker arm cover gaskets or the rear main bearing (which has no seal).


Gene Schneider
1 member likes this: 1936Chevy2Door
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
The reason I need to replace the pan Gasket is, that there is a lot of sludge build-up in the oil pan, I believe it has been more than 20 years, and the rocker and valve cover gasket were brittle and fell apart when I change them.

So I was thinking (I was thinking, that's Dangerous) that since all front fenders and front grill are off, it would make sense to pull the engine off, replace all gaskets, flush all the sludge clean or replace the oil filter, etc, retouch the engine with new grey paint, we are amature with a little mechanical knowledge, I'm 65 years old and not afraid to take on challenges, with some extra guidance from the VCCA.

I appreciate any or all advice you have given me.

I just love Driving the 36 chevy master 6V, 207 all original.

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
In that case pulling the engine is a lot of work but will make the other projects easier.


Gene Schneider
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 41
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 41
If you already have the tin ware off the front You have similar access to the engine as with it out and no extra work to get it there. I would be doing the gasket change with the engine fixed to the frame.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
1 member likes this: 1936Chevy2Door
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,471
Likes: 25
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,471
Likes: 25
To do the work listed above it will be much easier with the engine out-especially for the area of the block under the cowl. Also a good time to change any freeze plugs in the back and do some internal block cleaning. Might sound like a lot of additional work but considering what would be required if it was all back together a good investment .


Steve D
1 member likes this: 1936Chevy2Door
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
Leave it alone. When something happens that dictates pulling the engine then do so. Messing with it now will trigger the notion that more and more is needed whilst you have the engine out and on an engine stand. Here are some consideration that may pop up:

a. As you say all gaskets and clean out plugs will invite replacement including timing gears cover.

b. While in there you will want to resurface the transmission's clutch release (throw=-out) bearing and maybe resurface/replace the pressure plate, new clutch dixc, etc.

c. Resurface the exhaust and intake manifolds and install new gaskets there.

d. Pull the head and do a valve job. Leading to a complete overhaul/rebuild of the engine.

e. Replace the timing gears.

f. And on and on and more and more. The temptation to keep doing things to the engine will become compelling. You started out just wanting to replace the pan gasket, clean and paint the engine. danceYou get the picture?

Sludge in the pan doesn't hurt anything unless it plugs up the oil pump screen and/or dippers.sufficient to starve those parts. Generally it just sits there in the bottom of the pan not bothering anybody. willy

Just run and enjoy it until it starts knocking. driving bonk It'll save you money on beer for your buddies. beermugs Agrin

Good luck with whatever your decision happens to be. You're welcome to my sound, sage advice.

Best,

Charlie computer

Last edited by 41specialdeluxe; 06/27/22 07:57 AM.
2 members like this: Jrlaplante, 1936Chevy2Door
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,510
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,510
Likes: 47
I respectfully disagree with Charlie about leaving the sludge.

Although I don't know much about inline 6 engines, I've had a few of the 4 cylinder engines apart and they also use a splash lubrication system in the block.

With the oil pan off, look for sludge in the oil reservoirs (above the main and cam bearings). You can see them from the bottom with a little inspection mirror and a flashlight. It is important to get the sludge out of these reservoirs, otherwise your bearings are at risk for not getting the lubrication that they need.

Qtips work nicely for cleaning out the reservoirs.

When you are ready to put the oil pan back on, squirt a little 10-30W oil into the reservoirs so there will be some lubrication at those places when you fire the engine back up.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



1 member likes this: 1936Chevy2Door
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 55
Likes: 2
Wow, I just wanted to change the oil pan gasket, I'm pretty sure the prior owner rebuild the engine, the car runs like a champ at 45 to 55 MPH all day on local highways (No Freeways) maybe your right I just deal with it the small oil drips. Thank you

Marco SR

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
When I pulled the engine in my 38, I realized that I had exceptional access to the brake lines so I changed them all out.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
1 member likes this: 1936Chevy2Door
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
Marco SR,

Note old216's post above.

You will surely find that it will be relatively easy to rebuild the whole steering mechanism and brakes while you have the engine out. dance

See what I was saying? bike


Best,

Charlie computer

1 member likes this: 1936Chevy2Door

Link Copied to Clipboard
Support The VCCA!

Enjoy the forum? Become a VCCA member! The World's Best Chevrolet and GMC Club!


Member Photos
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
by DreamChevy, February 17
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
by 1939Chevy1, November 24
Back on the road 79 years later
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
by 1927TRUCKS, June 7
Who's Online Now
5 members (Chipper, Mr87Monty, minetto, Shorty, wesb), 64 guests, and 16 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
NeilA, Jayhicks, Tomvanhouten, Dads29Chevy, Tractorman
18,308 Registered Users
Today's Birthdays
aristech, RalphL, tonysk
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics59,070
Posts429,051
Members18,308
Most Online1,133
Jan 22nd, 2020
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5