VCCA Home Forums Thread Like Summary - Pulling the engine question

Hi All,

My stuck engine is going to the rebuilder (J&M in MA). I'm just about ready to pull the engine, but I've never done this before and have a few questions for the old pros here:

1. Attach points. Where do you attach the engine hoist bolts? Or do you use a cradle?

2. The builder needs the complete engine with intake/exhaust and clutch and flywheel.

Any tips on disconnecting the engine aft of the clutch and flywheel?

3. Crating. I'm building a crate for shipping. Any tips?

Thanks!
--
Jay

done this twice to date with my 1929 (pulling engine/driveline), recently got mine back from the rebuilder and actually just put it back in a few weeks ago

i find it easiest for me with a endless loop sling and engine leveler on a engine crane/ cherry picker.

post of it going back in: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/466883/1.html

post of when i pulled it: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/433010/2.html

i know 1929 has 3 bolting points. one on front of engine, then 2 at the transmission housing. much easier to pull the engine & transmission together. then can break it down from there as needed. also remove the 4 bolts for the transmission universal housing then slide that down the torque tube out of the way.

I would recommend this engine stand made by Jerry (Bearsfan315).

I have made one myself, and it good and stable in use.

Link: Engine stand

Here are plans for an engine dolly. You could use it as the foundation of your crate and take the wheels off for shipping. Then when it comes back, you'll have an engine dolly to roll around your shop. ;-)

From the Stovebolt website - Chevy six cylinder engine dolly plans

Cheers, Dean

If the Chevy Shop Manual procedures for the early engines are like those in the '49-'54 Shop Manual, two head bolts are removed and temporarily replaced with eyebolts. Someone will correct me if the procedure is different for the early engines.

McMaster-Carr or Grainger have eyebolts but suggest shopping around for price. I have a set that I use for 235 engines matched to the head bolt thread, 1/2"-13 x 4", that work well. Make sure to get the correct thread for your engine and eyebolts that are rated for lifting - see the images and example listings, here: McMaster-Carr Eyebolts .

Two 1/2-13 eye bolts from the hardware store will be more than adequate for lifting a Chevy engine. We used eye bolts for lifting some much heavier stuff in my Powder Coating Shop. Weld the eye if you are squeamish.
I have an angle iron with loops welded on the vertical flange. Two holes are drilled in the horizontal flange to match the long rocker arm studs.
I choose the loop that gives me the best balance. With different rocker stud holes, it has lifted 207, 216, and 235 engines and will be getting a shot at a 261, coming up.

Mike