VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 OIL LEAKS......%$#@

Well its time to correct the oil leaks. I had three (3) and I am down to two.(rear-end done)


Shocks

Did you install the oil pan gaskets in the proper sequence?? The long side gaskets get placed first.They must be installed to the block before the end pieces are put into the main bearing cap groves.The ends but up against the side gaskets.A small amount of a sealant may be used where they join. use chassis grease to hold the long side corks to the block.Much eaiser to remove old gasket when grease is used rather than a gasket cement.Tighten pan bolts well and retighten in a few days-but don't over do it.Also check pan side rails for distortion-escecially around the bolt holes.

Distortion!!!!!!!! Yep, thats what I did!!
If one would look at the gasket from the side view you would see where the core has been forced out at the pan bolts. This is where it is leaking as well. It is on the fuel pump side which the slingers through the oil inside on the rods.
Hopefully my second effort will be better.
Thanks for the tip :)
Live & Learn.....Shocks

A trick taught to me by a old shade tree mechanic, is to take a ball peen hammer with the ball against the holes in the pan. Tap it firmly with another hammer flat of head to flat of head. That will slightly dimple the hole. Another is to tie the gasket to the long sides of the block with thread. It only takes two or three on each side and two at the ends and one in the middle is best. They don’t need to be tight just enough to keep the gasket in place. A small dab of sealant in the corner when the main cap cork gasket meets the long ones will help hold them in place and insure a good seal. Only torque the screws firmly. Use about as much pressure on the screwdriver handle as when shaking hands with a lady. Not a wimpy shake but not a bone crusher either. As Chevy Gene recommended, retightening after 50 or so miles is a good idea.

A straight-edge on the pan with tell if you there is any problems with twisting, dents, bends.

We did the thread deal when I helped my Dad, It had to be white thread from my Mom's sewing machine drawer,he never pulled an engine to do an overhaul He laid on his back on a cardboard box, He always cut his own gaskets form gasket paper or cork, , all except for head and manifold gaskets, he used a small ball pien hammer to cut the bolt holes and edges, he would place the material over the block or differential housing or whatever and tap, tap with the flat face around the edges and use the ball to tap the gasket material into the holes then he would use Permatex or shellac to glue the gasket in place, he always made new gaskets every time he pulled a part off. He wore one of those old aluminum hard hats (he wore it from daylight to dark every day he worked) like you see in the black and white Gary Cooper Oil boom movies and kinda used it for a pillow. it was funny, he never wore safety glasses and would crawl out from under the car with a big glob of dirt in his eyes, and saying his Sunday School lessons backwards. He has been gone since April 2nd 1982 and I still miss him.

My Dad allways used grease to hold a gasket in place. One trick he showed me was, as you snug the part up to the gasket look at the gasket, if it starts to move you will have a leak. Also try to straighten the sheet metal before putting it back on. Use a fine sanding block and just run it down the length with one pass. You will see the "high" spots and tap them down. (mostly at the bolt holes.