VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 31 chev cooling system

i am sure this has been covered in the past, but What should i be putting into the radiator for coolent. I have read that i shouldn't use antifreeze because it is n't a pressurized system and that it causes the antifreeze to bubble up through radiator cap and look as if it is boiling over when it is running at normal temp. This might be what my problem has been all along. I have a 160 degree thermostat in the car .any suggestians would help.



Mark

hi mark,

I think the consensus here is to use antifreeze, for all of its cooling, antifreeze, & anti-corrosion properties & benefits...

the overflow may be indicative of a cooling system issue, perhaps a radiator or block that needs backflushing?..


epi

I never heard that one before-not using anti-freeze due to its bubbling over.
Have used it in my '34 for the last 37 years with no problem.
I would bet your core is restricted with rust or the water pump (packing) is allowing air to be pulled into the system.

You could have a minor leakage in the engine head gasket as well?? But you should use some antifreeze liquid in the water to prevent the damage of rust.

I agree with all of you. I was looking to purchase an overhaul gasket kit from the filling station online and they sell cooling system lube (not sure if thats correct name or not) and when i read about the cooling system lube is where i read about not using antifreeze because its not a pressurized system. I hope i am making sense here. I am going to replace the head gasket valve cover gasket etc. When the head is off i am going to clean the water jackets and have the radiator boiled out again(had that done 3 years ago when i bought the car). I have flushed the system quit a few times and it is still very dirty and rust. I am working tons af hours at work. probly won't get much road time with the old girl but maybe get some badly needed repares done.


Mark

Your best bet is to clean the water jackets in the head and block. A real benefit of a 50/50 coolant is that even in a non- pressure system you bring the boiling point of the solution up to 224 degrees and this extra range helps stabilize the fluid in the head and block and this helps prevent the surging of the coolant when you come to a stop. If this overheating just started, I'd go back and check my timing. Wear on the points contact surface to the distributor cam retards the the timing. These engines won't tolerate any timing below 12 degrees advanced.

Overheatings been an ongoing problem. Thats why its time to pull the head clean the water jackets and so on. I just purchased a rebuilt water pump from Don Rossi. After i have that painted correct i will install that also.


Mark

Some people still believe that water with soluable oils (some is also sold as water pump lubricant) is better than antifreeze/coolant. This is despite decades of testing that does not support the belief.

I would wager a month's wages that the foaming of the coolant is due to gas in the coolant passages. Air drawn past the water pump shaft or exhaust gas past the head gasket or cracked head or a few other sources is the most likely cause. It is true that the antifreeze/coolant is more prone to foaming but excess gas in the coolant is not a good situation no matter what liquid or mix is used.

I had cooling problem with my 31 and it drove me crazy. I flushed and back flushed the block and radiator several times. I replaced the water pump and the baffle behind the pump. Finally I pulled the head and there is was. The rear passages in the head and the block were plugged solid. With some patience I was able to clean the block out and with the head off I was able to clean it out really good. There was no way that I could of gotten it clean without pulling the head. Anyone with a cooling problem should just pull the head first. It will save you alot of grief.