VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 '30 Steering Gear Adjustment

Does anyone have the instructions on adjusting the steering gear on a '30? The earliest I have is on the '32 and ofcourse that is a different box.

I have a 31 manual which has the procedure for it.
But I don't know if it is the same procedure for your 30. If yes, I could copy or send it to you if that would help.

Shocks

1931 is different. The only adjustment for the 1930 steering box is for the main shaft and for the pitman shaft. Here is what the 1930 shop manual (you really need to get one of these) says:

"End play in the main shaft may be compensated for by loosening the adjusting plug clamp screw and turning the adjustment plug to the right until the excess clearance is removed. After turning the adjustment nut up, be sure it is not too tight, thus causing the gear and worm to bind. Tighten the clamp screw and test again to be sure the gear will move freely all the way."

For the end play in the Pitman arm shaft the manual says the following:

"Remove the four cap screws that secure the housing cover to the steering gear cases and take out one or more of the paper gaskets or shims so as to allow the cover to go up close to the gear and shaft, thus eliminating any excess clearance at this point. Be sure that the housing cover does not fit too close, thus causing the gear to drag after the cap screws are again put in place."

There is no adjustment for the "backlash" between the worm and gear in 1930. Since the gear has 360 degrees of teeth, turn the gear 180 degrees or to an area on the gear where it hasn't meshed with the worm previously. That will tighten up the backlash a little.

Thanks for the rapid response. I believe you got it right Junkyard Dog. The only adjustments you have are the worm shaft end play and the sector shaft end play and no seperate adjustment for backlash. By the way, where can I get one of those 1930 shop manuals?

Manual reprints are available from Filling Station or other repro part suppliers.

Thanks Chevychip, I'll try and get one.

Question: How much "play" is exceptable? My 32 seems to "wander" just a little too much for my liking. I've adjusted the box a few times and can't seem to get tight feel to the steering. I'd say right now the wheel has about 1 1/2" to 2" of play.

On the 1932 steering box the backlash is adjustable, whereas in 1930 it is not. However, it sounds like your tie rod ends or your drag link might need to be rebuilt as well. You might want to look into that if you haven't already done so.

Hi Everyone, Is there a 1931 chevy club????
I just aquired a 31 chev coupe with twin side mounts and I sure would like to visit with other 31 chev owners.
Thanks
Dave

You can join the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America. There are many, many 1931 Chevrolet owners in the VCCA that you can contact once you become a member. Click on the following link for an application to the VCCA:
http://vcca.org/forms/application_form.htm

JYD, thanks for the quick reply.
I have jacked up the front end so the tires are just off the floor. I can move the steering wheel 1 1/2"-2" before I see any movement in the drag link.
I have replaced the little springs and half moon spacers in the tie rod ends and repacked them with grease.
What does it take to rebuild the drag link? (is there a kit?)
Or...could the problem be in the steering box?

RGwiz - you know, I can literally match the same kind of wheel play and work-to-date you've done with my '32, too. Along with the installation of a tie rod "rebuild kit", I have also found some incremental improvement in increasing the tire pressure and double-checking the toe-in; however, I'm never quite relaxed driving around with the same kind of steering wheel play you and I both have. I'll be following your thread with anticipation.

As I remember, the same kit for the tie rod ends fits the drag link as well. The Filling Station has the parts.

JYD, You need to keep both hands on the wheel and your eyes straight ahead, Elvira will do fine till you get to the barn. A little slack keeps your steering apparatus from freezing up!

Hum.....maybe so, but the same repair kit still fits both the tie rod ends and the drag link.

Hi Ed.
If I remember correctly my Dad repacked the drag link before I did the tie rod ends. I also checked and adjusted the toe. I'm not sure about what you say regarding the tire pressure. Seems to me that a higher pressure would cause the front end to wander more easily.
I'm thinking that the steering box is just worn. JYD said something about flipping the gear to eliminate backlash on the 1930 car. Junkyard...is the '32 gear 360 degrees. I believe my car is a very early 32. (November 31)

No! The 1930 steering box is a worm and gear, and the 1931-1932 steering box is a worm and sector. The 1930 steering box is totally different than the 1931-32 steering box. :eek: :eek:

Davos, Try http://barkerville.net/1931 . A lot of information there.

I'm going to fix the link Jerry. It included the "period" and you get an error when you click on it. I'll remove the "period" in the previous posting.

I recall someone in this group a long time back - perhaps Chevnut -expressing that boosting the tire pressure a pound or two above what the manual calls for can help reduce that "sloggy" steering you get that feels like worn steering. I did it two years ago - I think I raised the pressure to 34 or 35 pounds - and I did find some incremental improvement.

IT wasn't little ol me :rolleyes:

Well Ed, I'll give that a try. It may be possible to get a better "feel" for the road if there is more pressure. But I'd sure like to stop all that "drifting around".

I found it makes a lot of difference in the little narrow 400,450x21 inch tires on the 1928 Sedan, I run about 40psi. also keeping all four tires at the same pressure is better since even 3 or 4 psi difference in the fronts can be felt in the way she drives on un-even blacktop pavement. My steering is all good and tight, I changed the toe in from 1 3/8" toe out to 1/8" toe in and that also helped, I was wearing the left front tire tread and it also shows an improvement now with the correct toe in and the 40psi.

Several of us have recommended the 4-5 psi higher pressure. It lowers the tendency to wander.

Oh okay, I'll give Chipper the credit, then. I lose track of all the great advice over the years...