VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Rebuild 31 carter carbureter

I purchased a rebuild kit for my 150 Carter from the Fillingstation.
It came with good instructions and I even read them
I still have two Issues
(1) When I removed the low speed jet tube assembly only the screwed nut came out. Reading the instructions the tube should have came with it??? It looks like it was soldered on at one time. The instructions state that I should have a good seal on both the top and bottom. Is the tube threaded on the other end to respect of the soldered screw cap? Any ideas

The bowl nut requires only one gasket and that goes between the bowl nut and the bowl on the outside.

The low speed idle tube is soldered to the screw cap and it is all one piece. The other end of the low speed idle tube slips into a hole on the inside of the body above the air horn. Because of slight corrosion, the low speed idle tube will become secured to the carburetor body, thus when you try to remove it the solder joint between the tube itself and the screw cap will break and the cap will unscrew, leaving the low speed idle tube stuck in the carburetor body. To break it free, heat must be carefully applied through the air horn to the area just above were the other end of the low speed idle tube inserts into the carburetor body. However, to do this, the pot metal venturi, the pot metal choke cone and the pot metal standpipe all must be removed first, which takes special carburetor tools to do so. And, to successfully remove the low speed idle tube, a special removal tool designed to do the job must be used as well. Any attempt to remove the above parts without the special tools will result in damage to the pot metal parts and the low speed idle tube. This procedure should be done by those that specialize in rebuilding this type of carburetor. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

I agree in part with the JYD. It is by far the best to send the carb to someone that specializes in rebuilding these carbs. There are special tools to take them apart and put them back together that are scarce. Also knowledge of the carbs, what can go wrong, what normally is the problem, etc. are invaluable. The "Dog", I and F.C. have re-rebuilt carburetors worked on by other rebuilders. Many advertise in Hemmings and the G&D and should know what they are doing but just don't. Costs can also be astronomical for less than satisfactory work.

It is not necessary to remove the venturi and standpipe to remove the stuck low speed jet tube. I believe that gum, varnish, etc. from evaporated fuel is the major glue sticking the tube into the bore. Corrosion can also be a factor. Careful use of heat is critical to the removal. Both the top and bottom sections should be heated. Multiple heat then quench cycles are often required to break the bond.

The correct removal tool is the best method but others are also workable. Before I got the proper puller I used a number 3 wood screw and needle nosed pliers to remove the stuck tube. NEVER try to pull the tube with any pliers. You will damage the bottom end and then the tube will need to be drilled out. Drilling is a tricky operation as the upper bore must not be damaged for a correct seal. Thread the screw into the tube and gently lever it out. It will be necessary to use a few blocks of varying sizes as the tube comes out. If you pull the screw out of the tube by forcing too much then our pullers may not be able to remove it and drilling will be necessary so take care.

If you decide to tackle the job your self, take it slow and easy. The old saw "If it doesn't come easy, force it, if it breaks it needed replacement anyway." can be very expensive. Good luck!

Thanks for the quick response JYD. Just one more thing before I quit..............Is the tube screwed in or is it a sleeve fit?

And in the event I mess up ...can one still get the tube/cap assembly?
Shocks
:rolleyes:

Sorry, did not answer that. It is a sleeve fit and pulls straight out. DO NOT try to turn it while removing!

Yes you can get a new tube and nut.

Thanks guys......... Looks like I got a good one here. I have checked the tube is clear. I dipped the carb im cleaner and it looks new. As I see it the cap where the solder failed is just that a cap. I have some "gas resistant" e-pow-e which I have used in the past.
If I do get it out and solder the cap I stand the chance if leaking on the other end....
It would seem like If i recaped the tube to prevent a leak I could be ready to go.
Everything else is good.

Shocks

Shocks

I respectively disagree with the Chipper on not removing the pot metal pieces before applying heat to the outside of the carburetor body to remove the low speed idle tube. If you want to risk the possibility of damaging the pot metal pieces then by all means leave them in place when you apply heat to the outside of the carb. body to free up the low speed idle tube. In most cases it takes a lot of heat on the outside of the carburetor body to free up the low speed idle tube, and, in contrast, it takes very little heat on the inside of the air horn to free up the low speed idle tube. When heating from the outside, shortly you will hear a crackling sound and when you hear that, it is a good indication that the pot metal is disintegrating. The correct way to remove a seized low speed idle tube, and to do a quality rebuild on the carburetor at the same time, is to remove all of the pot metal pieces first since they are very fragile.

As mentioned earlier, the low speed idle tube is stuck in the upper end of the air horn where it is a sleeve fit. And, to break it free, heat must be applied with a fine tipped torch inside of the air horn at the sleeve fit location. To do that, the pot metal venturi must be removed with a venturi puller, so that you can remove the pot metal choke to gain access so that the pot metal standpipe can be removed with a standpipe removal tool. Once this is accomplished, then the sleeve fit of the low speed idle tube is now totally visible and the cast iron area above it can be gently heated, from the inside, and the low speed idle tube will then come out easily. I never apply heat to the carburetor with any of the pot metal pieces in place. Heat and pot metal do not mix, and it is a risky proposition at best.

Also, carburetor cleaner does not work well on cast iron. A better method to totally clean the carburetor is to completely disassemble the carburetor and then bead blast the bare cast iron core.

Thanks guys......... Looks like I got a good one here. I have checked the tube is clear. I dipped the carb im cleaner and it looks new. As I see it the cap where the solder failed is just that a cap. I have some "gas resistant" e-pox-e which I have used in the past repairing a carb on a boat motor.
If I do get it out and solder the cap I stand the chance if leaking on the other end....
It would seem like If i recaped the tube to prevent a leak I could be ready to go.
Everything else is good.

Hum...I think that you already said that. Ha ha!

Sorry JYD but I didn't think my note was send so I sent it again...........Ha My bad. Anyway, the risk I take with the E-Pox-E is limited. IF it works great, If not no major damage.
If it doesn't work........Just send it out to someone who knows what he is doing and pay the bucks.

Yes, there is a very small orifice on the side of the low speed idle tube, right below where the cap solders onto the tube itself, and you can't see it because the tube is still in place. Be sure that you don't plug the orifice when you attempt to glue the cap back on.

I just have one Dumb question about all this discussion. Rather than use heat to get the tube out, (unless it needs to come out for inspection) would it be possible to re-solder the cap on ,tube inplace, with low temp solder?

The cap is screwed into place in the orifice of the carburetor, and once in place the cap is flush with the flange of the hole, and the end of the tube is up inside of the cap, so soldering it to the tube while the tube is in the carburetor will be very difficult since the cap has to be screwed in before soldering. Also, there is a very small orifice near the end of the tube, just under the cap, and this orifice must remain open.

The correct way to solder the cap on is to remove the low speed idle tube from the carburetor, totally clean it, and bead blast the end of the tube where the cap attaches so that the solder will get good adhesion. Then drill out the cap slightly to remove the old solder, apply flux and then silver solder the cap back on to the low speed idle tube making sure that it is in perfect alignment with the tube. Alignment is critical so that the complete unit will screw into the carburetor correctly, and so the bottom of the tube will engage the hole in the air horn on the opposite end and still have a tight sleeve fit. However, to attach the cap with the low speed idle tube still in place, Epoxy is one way to go pending a total removal of the low speed idle tube.

Got-ya JYD
I honor and truly respect your advise. You have always been a big help to me. But........I have this carburetor clean as a new penny inside and out i have checked all parts and orfices and they all in good shape.'This low speed idle cap is my only hurdle
IF THIS TUBE WAS STAYED IN THE CORRECT POSITION WHEN I TOOK THE CAP IT SHOULD STILL BE CORRECT. THE ORFICE YOU TALKED ABOUT IS .250" FROM THE TOP OF THE TUBE END. THE CAP ONCE ON WILL STOP .175" FROM THE CAP. I PLAN TO PROCEED TO PUT A DROP OF GAS RESISTANT EPOXE INSIDE THE CAP AND SCREW IT OVER THE TUBE. THEN PLACE THE CARB RIGHT SIDE UP TO DRY. I SHOULD HAVE A GOOD SEAL WITH A OPEN ORFICE NEAR CAP TO SIPHIN GAS TO THE CARB BY ADJUSTING THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW ON THE OTHER END OF THE TUBE. IF IT WORKS GREAT IF NOT I AM OUT NOTHING AND I SEND IT TO A REAL MECHANIC.

I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT LATER ON.

THANKS JYD ........SHOCKS

Yep, if you are careful with the Epoxy that should work. There is only one way to find out and that is to try it. Definitely report back as to how the carb. works when you get it reinstalled on the car. Good luck!

Hello again my Chevy Friends.........

I have my carb rebuilt and ready for installation. This brings me to a new question.
I do not have the original cable mounting bracket for the throttle, choke, and foot pedal cable for my 150 carb. :p
The carb I have on is more than likely something different. Does anybody have a photo of this bracket assembly?
It would greatly aid me in making one.

OR............If you have one I would be interested in buying it.

Shocks/////////

Shocks, There is a great photo of one on Bill Barkers web site.

Thanks Sal.......

Sal
Looks by the picture in Barker's site, on the 150 carb bracket is the same I have on my aftermarket carb...I finally get a break.....

Shocks