VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 just bought a 38 Master 85

That should keep you busy for a while......... :)
It just a Master-the 85 was added in 1939.

Congratulations! The journey is most of the fun, enjoy the ride. FYI pull & clean or replace the gas tank before you try to start it. Bad things can happen if you don't.

That looks to be in pretty good shape. The biggest proplem I had was finding the parts that were not on the car when I bought it. Yours looks to have most everything, at least on the outside. The bumpoer guards or from a 37 though.

Brian

thanks everybody.I am probably not going to keep it,A friend offered to trade me his 39 Master 85 for it,so I am going that route.I prefer 39's.The correct guards are in the trunk and it is 100% complete.The previous owner had the tank boiled,cleaned and sealed already.I tried to start it today but there is a bent push rod,must be a stuck valve.Whats the best way to unstick it?

I agree, the 1939's are much better looking-and its not just because I own one :)

Note the the front bumper guards are the accessory guards for a 1937 Master.A little rare.

To unstick the valve run a thin penetrating oil down the valve stem.You can fill the area around the top of the valve cap (under rocker are tip) and it will run down the stem to the guide as there was no seal in 1938.I would do this evry day for 2 or 3 days and the gently tap the top of the valve stem to get it moving a little.Once it moves and you get the engine running pour some thin oil or ATF thru the carb. air horn with the engine running.This will get to the "stickey" area of all the valve stems...and then add some 2 cycle oil or Marvel Myster Oil to the gas.

I, of course, disagree. The 38 chevy was the last chevy with the headlights mounted on the side of the dog house which was the same shape as the '30s with more modern brakes and features. Once the headlights moved to the fenders, the modern form begins to take shape.

I see the 39 as a 38 with out the interesting style.....


Brian

thanks Gene!I may have told you before Gene,39's are my favorites and I have all the options for one,just not the car.

Bending a push rod is a common occurrence on a Chevy that has sat for a while. Even though the engine had been spun to try and start it, prior to the next attempt, it would be best to spray penetrating oil (something like WD40) on all the valve stems and rocker shaft and then tap the valves stems. Also, it would be better to remove the spark plugs and oil the cylinder walls and then turn the engine over by hand a couple of times instead of using the starter. It will be easier to feel the resistance of any additional valves that might be sticking.

Mist green 50
To add to Barrys comment, if you have the rocker cover removed while turning the engine over by hand (either with the crankhandle or fan blades)you can see which valve is sticking before you feel it. The sticky valve will leave a visible gap at 1 end of the rocker arm but the others wont, get the valve with the bent pushrod freed up first.
I would NOT even contemplate trying to straighten the bent pushrod as it is weakened and will bend again or break.
You have a good start of a nice project.
Tony

I had two valves stick shut because of varnish on the stems. I have to disagree about the best way to fix the problem. Pulling the head is fairly straight forward if you get some help to lift it (heavy dude, would make an excellent boat anchor). Then you can pull each valve to clean & lap it. You can clean the inside of the guide using a bore brush out of a gun cleaning kit & a bit of Chemtool. While the valves are out you can clean & paint the head. I wasted days trying to unstick the valves by pouring thin oil and penetrating oil on the stems before finally pulling the head. The whole head job took one day. The parts house I frequent had a valve spring compressor that they loaned me to pull the valves. Just my 2 cents.

Just depends on how bad the valve is stuck...as he is planing on reselling the car I would suggest the easy way first.If it sat for many years there may be no easy way and then a good valve job never hurt anything. :)

ok,I did the wd-40 and marvel mystery oil deal and I went to get some push rod's and the one's I have and the parts store carry are only 10 or so inches,the ones I pulled are about 13",whats the deal?

The push rods for 1937-39 are 12 47/64" long.

:) :grin:

thank you,I just ordered some.-Jaime

Where did you find them. I couldn't find the long pushrods anywhere & ended up having to buy "late model" lifters & pushrods.

Egge Engine Co. $13 each

Thanks for the tip. I'll remember that.

My father seem's to think that a lifter may be stuck?Should I pour some Marvel down the push rod hole's?

I couldn't hurt. You can find out for sure by pulling the side cover that covers the pushrods/lifters, remove the pushrods then pull, clean and lube each lifter. IMHO the only way to know for sure everything is OK is to pull the head, clean everything (including the lifters), lap the valves and put it back together. That's the only way to know for sure what you've got.

I have never heard of a lifter being stuck...If it was the rocker arm would not have bent the push rod....Simple test.With rocker arm off place the push rod in place on top of the lifter-and turn engine over by hand .The push rod should rise and fall as the lifter passes over the cam lobe....If thats OK when you install the rocker arm and all is set to go turn it over by hand again to be certain that the valve is moving freely.If valve pushes down and dosen't move back up again then you will know its still stuck..continue soaking.
Remember the valves will require readjusting when you have it running again.

I got a chance to work on the car today,the valves are still stuck.If I tap on them with a brass hammer they stay down with the springs compressed.If I "help" them up they come back.I looks's like I might be pulling this head unless you guy's have some suggestions.-Jaime

If you can tap them down and then lift them back up, continue to spray WD-40 or any other, as you continue to go up and down. Eventually the lubrication will lube the stem and it will work.

When you get the engine running, spray WD-40 on each valve stem until they are free.

I just went back out there and all three were up!I tapped down all three and two of them slowly came back up but the other need help.I will keep at it for another couple of days.thanks everybody.-Jaime