Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Jan 2007
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Grease Monkey
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Well I'm back again with more questions for you guys.

I've changed the points, condenser, plugs, rotor, and distributor cap. Depending on driving conditions I get anywhere from 7 to 10 mpg. When going down hills it backfire in the exhaust. The carburator that's in it is a carter with a w-1 on it. When I'm looking at kanter auto products this is not one of the numbers they list.

Anybody have any thoughts on the matter.

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I suspect carburator problems. A visual of your carb will locate the air adjustment near the top of the carb. At the base of the carb will be a fitting that goes to the vacuum advance.
This information applies to the OEM carb.

A later carb may be used with expected better results, however ANY carb must be rebuilt and checked for the correct components.

Agrin devil


RAY


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If in good condition the OEM carb should give 15-18 mpg. If it does not then you need to get it fixed by someone who really knows what they are doing. Very few fit that description. Fortunately there are at least three VCCA members who do. A couple of VCCA members who advertise that they rebuild the carbs and apparently do not.


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I appreciate the info you guys are giving me however you both have used the term OEM. I'm assuming this has something to do with original equipment. If so does that mean my carb is not original?

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OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer.

Your carburetor could be an OEM W1 or it could be a later W1 replacement. Visual inspection will determine which carburetor you have.

:) wink laugh


The Mangy Old Mutt

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You should search this site for earlier discussion on W-1 identification. There have been numerous posts on how to identify which W-1 is which. Unfortunately, Carter made many W-1's and it is essential that you get the right parts for your carburetor.
Coach

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Visual inspection will determine the carburetor in most cases but it is not 100%. Over the years some of the internal parts can be switched which can only be determined by at least a partial disassembly. The most critical parts are the main jet, metering rod and low speed jet. If those are correct for the application, the float set close to specification and the insides of the carb are clean then the engine should run correctly. Since yours does not then one or more of the above is likely the problem.


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Also look for vacuum leaks causing the back fire on deaccelleration.


Gene Schneider
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Popping through the exhaust on deccelleration is most often caused by exhaust leaks, usually the donut gasket between the exhaust manifold and the head pipe, not by anything on the intake side.

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Then why did they do it years ago when we removed the wiper hose from its fitting so it would pop back thru the exhaust when backing off?....when a glass pack was used.


Gene Schneider
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Gene,

No one had mentioned an exhaust leak as a possible cause of the popping exhaust, and I have found the problem on my 33 has always been the donut exhaust gasket. I guess a vacuum leak would do the same thing by admitting fresh air, ultimately to the exhaust system, mixing with the unburned gasses in the hot muffler.


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