VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1931 Carb spring

Hi,

Can someone send me a photo of what the accelerator spring on the carburator attaches to. The one on my car is a small spring that goes from the carb to the exhaust manifold clamp and that doesn't seem correct.

It's correct! The coil spring attaches to the throttle shaft on the one end, and to the front exhaust manifold flange stud on the other.

Thanks for the info.

can someone post/send me a picture of this? Either I'm way off, or I need a different spring..Thanks

If you can wait about 10 days I can take a picture of a NOS spring. Currently on VCCA Southern Fall Tour.

I'm thinking of ordering a spring from the filling station, and along with a picture, making my car ready to drive this weekend...???

The Filling Station spring is a close replacement. I use them and also springs that I get at the local hardware.

The Filling Station shows in their catalog that the spring is a "universal replacement" and that it is 11 1/2" long. For the correct 1929-31 application their spring is too long so apparently it must be cut to the correct length before installation.

I tried a 10" long spring to one of the bolts closer to the carb...and it didn't work too well. Where does the spring attach at the carb? I guess you're saying to loosen the nut on the front bolt, and the spring goes around the front bolt...but wont it rub against the manifold?

"The coil spring attaches to the throttle shaft on the one end, and to the front exhaust manifold flange stud on the other."

The spring can't rub against the manifold when it is installed correctly because it is below the exhaust pipe flange on the one end since it is attached to the exhaust pipe front flange stud, and the other end of the spring attaches to the throttle shaft arm on the carburetor where the accelerator pedal rod also attaches.

Front exhause manifold flange...I hope you mean the stud that is closest to the firewall NOT the one closest to the waterpump?? In my previous attempt I had one end of the spring around the nut towards the waterpump end which didn't work...I know where you mean for the end that attaches to near the carurator itself.

It can't go to the exhaust pipe flange nut closest to the firewall because the EXHAUST PIPE is in the way. I believe that you are thinking about the manifold bolts and/or studs that are on the cylinder head. This is not the case. There are two long studs on the exhaust manifold that are in a vertical position and these two studs are what the exhaust pipe metal flange attaches to. This flange is what holds the exhaust pipe and the donut in place. Both studs have long brass hex nuts. The spring attaches to the FRONT stud...which is the stud closest to the carburetor. That is the factory installation for the accelerator return spring.

You're right I am thinking of the two studs which "hold" the exhaust manifold onto the cylinder head. (not them)..okay

Oh boy...I guess someone did "work" on my car before I got it. I don't have two long studs, with brass hex nuts. I have two bolts which hold the exhause pipe metal flange to the exhaust manifold. Never even considered either of the two bolts that hold the metal flange, and donut to the exhaust manifold. As I understand it you're saying to use the front bolt. Later if possible and I if I can find two long studs, and long brass hex nuts, switch them out, (could use a new metal flange).

Yes, use the front stud. And, if you use the "universal" spring from the Filling Station you will find that it is too long and it will have to be cut and modified to fit.

:p

Most auto parts stores have the exhaust pipe studs and brass nuts as they are used on many vehicles. Normally they will be found in packages of three. Since you only need two that gives an extra.

Used the nuts and everything is back together...but have another question. The rubber boot (pump coverv assembly, (PCA)) while appearing fine, does leak gas through the top hole(plunger shaft hole). Also my PCA doesn't have the additional taper at the top as shown on the repair manual. An advice?
Thanks

I assume that you are talking about the rubber boot on top of the accelerator pump assembly on your Carter carburetor. If so, you can get a new, and correct, rubber boot from the Filling Station in Lebanon, Oregon.

If gas leaks from the accelerator pump then you have one or more of several problems. Rough internal surface, worn plunger leather, crack in plunger, plug in outlet jet are among them. The rubber cap is only designed to keep dirt out not gas in.

Its as if the accelerator is "over" filling. Right to the top...I'm not "flooding" it am I?
Car runs well, but I don't know what work has been done, or what work I can do.

See if these help.

Besides the cotter pin and the washer there should also be an "anti-rattle" spring and another washer connected to the accelerator rod as well. And, I don't think the clip for the accelerator spring that is shown on the exhaust manifold should be there. I believe that the accelerator spring connects directly to the front stud on the exhaust pipe.

agree with jyd regarding spring attachment to exh man stud. mike

Funny thing, is that I've had two cars that both had the "clip" on the exhaust bolt. It was probably an after-market type of fix. It helps to somewhat dimish the heat transfer to the spring.

So, it is probably correct to say that the spring mounted directly to the stud. So... is that why the spring had a manual, sloppy sort of winding to it? Otherwise how did you disconnect it, except by taking the bolt off?

No biggee... just wish that an early photo of a '31 would show up that shows this detail.

Fiddlesticks.

I was looking for this information for two days. Thank goodness I read this morning where you can search using multiple words using quotes or + in front of each word.

Bob

By the way, there was no clip on my exhaust manifold That is why I was confused. I connected the spring at the most forward stud of the exhaust manifold/exhaust pipe connection at the donut.