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OK
What is the trick to removeing the rear springs on a 35 Standard?
Gary
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To remove the springs first remove the U bolt nuts and plate below the springs.Remove the front "thru" bolt nut and bolt.Remove bolt passing thru rear shackle, shackle will then come appart.Spring will be free of the axle and frame.
On what step of this operation did you get hung up on?
Last edited by Chev Nut; 01/28/07 06:41 PM.
Gene Schneider
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If I understand correctly the bolt (number 2) in the drawing below acts as a clamp to hold two sides of the shackel together Gary ![[Linked Image from barnettcorporation.com]](http://www.barnettcorporation.com/shackel.JPG)
Last edited by 35chevy.com; 01/28/07 09:04 PM.
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Correct,remove it and the side plates will fall off (remove grease fittings)
Last edited by Chev Nut; 01/29/07 10:46 AM.
Gene Schneider
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Before you undo anything support the chassis imeediately forward of the rear springs so that the wheels are at least just clear of the ground. I would undo the Ubolts first then rear shackleswhile supporting the spring. I would hate to hear that the car had fallen on you.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Not to worry! The car is supported by 4 6-ton stands.
It seems the procedure to remove the front of the rear springs would be to remove the grease fitting and then it looks to be through bolted with no nut on the back-side
Gary
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Your correct.I was thinking of the Masters that had a rubber encased metal bushing pressed into the spring and a just a big bolt going thru it.....and no grease fitting.
Gene Schneider
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My standard has grease fittings set into the head end of the bolt
for the front mount on the rear spring.
I have tried to loosen the bolts but there isnt much room, I'm going to apply some penetrating oil and see how that works out
Gary
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On the front of the spring the bolt doesnt turn, undo the nut then the bolt will slip out. There is a cut away int he bolt head that fits upto a locating lug on the hanger to keep the grease hole in the correct position.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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TonyW undo the nut then the bolt will slip out Undo what nut?? The front hanger for my rear springs seems to have a 4inch bolt that goes through one side of the hanger,the spring and then the other side of the hanger. In the center of the head of the bolt is a grease fitting and the bolt only protrudes 1/16" throught the other side of the hanger, there is no nut. Thanks, Gary
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That has to be rare. Any possibility of a picture?  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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I figured it out! Under all of the 70 year old grease and crud there was a lock down to keep the shackle bolt from turning. Once I removed the lock the bolt came out quite easily. Now I need to find new shackles for both rear springs. Any Ideas????? Gary ![[Linked Image from barnettcorporation.com]](http://www.barnettcorporation.com/Shackel%20lock.JPG)
Last edited by 35chevy.com; 02/18/07 05:17 PM.
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35Chevy
If you removed the plate that sits against the cut away in the shackle pin head I would vigorously recommend that you refit it as it stops the pin rotating and reducing the greasability of the shackle causing premature wear.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Tonyw
I will be putting the locking plate back when I install the new springs.
When I removed the bolt it was badly worn, I checked all of the various suppliers and it's not an item anyone has had for years.
I went to my local truck parts store and was able to find some 9/16-18 grade-8 bolts. They are at the machine shop being drilled and having grease fittings installed.
When your car is 72 years old I guess there are just some parts you have to have made.
Gary
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Gary
After I replied last night I read your other posting further down chat, when i looked in my Filling Station catalogue I realised the 35 have a different setup to my 38 so basically I gave you incorrect information.
The Filling Station lists pins bushes and lock tabs for the 35 at what I consider a reasonable price.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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