Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#94582 01/28/07 07:26 PM
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Drew22 Offline OP
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Since I've been getting gunk in my inline fuel filters I decided to drop the tank to clean and replace the sender unit since when full it registered between 1/4 and 1/2 on the dash guage. Got the tank out easily and pulled the sending unit out, although the two gears were binding a bit due to corrosion the unit looked quite good,95% of the corks were still there. I sprayed it down and brushed all the rust and gunk off the whole unit, replaced the corks and it works perfectly, I hooked it up and raised and lowered the float and the dash guage corrosponded fine. The rivit holding the float gear was loose so I carefully bent the teeth in a little to mesh better with the other gear. At this point I'm a happy camper, then I went to inspect and start rinsing out the tank . I quickly realized there was a large object flopping around inside the tank, it appears to be a pan like object, a resivoir plate perhaps? Anyway I don't think it's supposed to move about freely in there so before I take the tank to the radiator shop for cleaning I want to know if the tank is kaput or can it somehow be fixed or does that pan have to be attached....basically I'm at a loss at this point.

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Drew22 #94585 01/28/07 08:48 PM
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My guess is that a baffle is loose. The normal procedure is to cut the top of the tank, clean, repair and resolder the top.

I don't have much luck with the cork floats. A brass F**D float works perfectly.

Agrin devil


RAY


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Drew22 Offline OP
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I think the clear, silicone jelly looking stuff coming out of the tank is the result of somebody trying to secure the baffle without cutting a hole in the tank. Besides the fact that it could possibly interfere with the sending unit if left unsecure, what other repercussions could occur. Guess I'll get a quote from the radiator shop to cut it open since I don't have the equipment to do it myself. Thanks!

Drew22 #94626 01/29/07 10:25 AM
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Drew22 Offline OP
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Just got a quote to cut open the tank, reconnect the baffle, clean tank and weld closed for $150.00- $175.00. Cheaper then a new tank so I guess I'll do it. I couldn't see inside very well with a flashlight and couldn't for the life of me find any safety matches which was reccommended here:)

Drew22 #94633 01/29/07 11:42 AM
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I had a loose baffle in the tank of my 35 std which messed up the gauge reading by interfering with the float. My local radiator shop was able to position the baffle through the float opening and secure it with sheet metal screws which he then sealed with solder. Not overly expensive but I cant find the bill quickly. Also not a concours repair but adequate. In my mind the baffle was probably loosened during a long ago boil out cleaning of the tank during my ownership.

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Drew22 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by AntiqueMechanic
My guess is that a baffle is loose. The normal procedure is to cut the top of the tank, clean, repair and resolder the top.

I don't have much luck with the cork floats. A brass F**D float works perfectly.

Agrin devil

Shame on you, didn't your mother ever tell you about using the "F" word?

Thanks for the input, I'm taking it in tomorrow for the "normal procedure"



Drew22 #94664 01/29/07 07:07 PM
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After the tank is fixed it should be lined. Allow it to cure for at least a week.

FUEL TANK LINING

Agrin devil


RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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Drew22 Offline OP
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Thanks for the help gentleman!! Just got back from the radiator shop, the tank had been lined previously so they're going to boil it out for 2-3 days, cut the hole on top, reattach the baffle and reline. They said 24-36 hours for the lining to cure, but I'm gonna take the advice here and let it cure for a week before I put new fuel in. I'm going to reuse the original sending unit, I've got it cleaned and adjusted and it's in great shape. The new one I bought is going back to The Filling Station for credit.

Last edited by Drew22; 01/30/07 11:30 AM.

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