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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 252
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 252 |
Hi Guys,I have another problem. I just received my frame back after having it sandblasted and found out that the cross member that goes under the radiator has alot of rust and pinholes in it.Can anyone tell me what other years will interchange with mine.I have a 1926 1/2 ton pickup.I have been told they used car frames on the 1/2 ton back then.
Dan
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
You have been advised correctly. The 1/2 ton is on the car chassis. I think a late 1926 through 1928 would be the same for that cross member. If you find something, email me and I will verify. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
I hate to be the one that disagrees with the Antique Mechanic but must in this case. The 1/2 ton chassis is nearly identical to the passenger but differs in the location of the gas tank and spare rim. Hence the rear cross member is different. The passenger has a rear mounted gas tank and spare on a rack above the tank. The commercial chassis has a gas tank under the front seat and the spare in a rack under the back of the frame. This is true for both 1926 Series K and V.
Ray is partially correct in that the rest of the frames (except for the added gas tank brackets) are the same for passenger and 1/2 ton chassis.
According to my parts books the Series K has a different front cross member than the one used on the Series V which are both different than the later Series AA. I don't know if there is enough difference to keep a person from substituting one for the other. Likely some modification would be required.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26 |
I'll add my two cent's worth here too! The 25 K actually has two cross members at the front. One pressed steel for the radiator, one cast for the engine. the 26 V has one pressed steel crossmember that supports both the radiator and engine. THE CRANK GOES THROUGH THE CROSSMEMBER. The 27 has one pressed steel, the crank goes OVER the crossmember. The engines and transmitions of a 26 V set lower than the 27 or 28 compaired to the top of the frame rails.These are car frames that I am sure of. Happy Hunting Gaby
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
You are both correct. You made me look! The "K" front member stands alone, as does the, "R", "V", "X", "AA", "LM/LO" and "AB". This is not to say they would not work. The parts books do not have pictures and I do not have a collection of frames to inspect. The safe bet would be to look for the exact front member. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 252
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 252 |
ok heres another question guys is there a part number stamped on these somewhere
Dan
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 720
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 720 |
you may find it quicker to replace the bad metal in the bottom than replace the crossmember . i realize that not every one has the equipment or tools to do this kind of repair .
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26 |
Dan I do not know any part numbers on these, I will try to look this weekend. I have one of all 4 years to look at, but most have rust or 70 year old greasy dirt. Does your hand crank go through a pressed steel crossmember? Also, does your frame have the sturrups for the support between the bell housing and the transmition?
Gaby
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 252
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 252 |
Hi Gaby, Yes my hand crank does go thru the pressed steel cross member,and my frame has the sturrups for the support although I don't have this support.
Dan
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26 |
Dan I will take some measurments of the late 26 V "car" cross member and post. This sounds like the closest to yours. I will also take measurements of the early V car frame (without sturups). I think that it may use the same front cross member. I do not know if this frame was a hold over from the late K or not. Gaby
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 95 |
In the UK passenger cars, or to be more precise 7-seater taxis and station wagons were built on the 1925 K, "1926" K, 1926 V "1827" V and possibly 1927 AA Light Delivery chassis. This was because there was a surfeit of chassis because of changes to the customs rules that lifted then reimposed customs duties (under Winston S Churchill actually in spring 1925). As a consequence the body had to accommodate the Light Delivery fuel tank with a different filler from the passenger car's. However there were few 1927 Selling Season Vs imported as basically there were so many chassis to use up! The chasiss frames were actually assembled and welded up in the GM Ltd Hendon, north London Plant and so modifications could have been made when they were being readied for driving off to coachbuilders.
Last edited by David Hayward; 01/28/07 06:41 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26 |
Dan We had freezing fog with ice all over everything this weekend, but I did get some measurements. For the front crossmember for a late V "car": 1. the engine mount hole is 6" to 6 1/16" down from the top of the side rail, the radiator holes are 2" to 2 1/16" down from the top of the side rail. 2. the crossmember has five rivits per side rail, two on the top flange and three on the lower flange. 3. the first two rivits are 25 13/16" apart across the frame. 4. the second two are to the back of the frame by 1 3/4" and 26" across. 5. the third two are about 2 3/4" tword the back and 26 3/8" across (bottom flange). 6. the forth two are 1 1/2" back and 26 9/16" across. 7. the fifth two are another 1 1/2" back and 26 3/4" across. As far as the bolt in cross member at the transmition, look for one that has to holes for the shift rods to go through. This will give you the right height. If you have a 27 or later trans, you will not need the two holes for the shift rods, but the bolt holes that mount to the sturups will be about 1 1/2" to low.(this is all for the "car" frame) Hope this helps. Gaby
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