VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Clutch oil cup

My '34 Standard needs some oil in the clutch (throwout bearing squeek)put my finger in site plug and it's low. I removed the toe board and the plate over the flywheel housing, but I'll be damned if I can find the oil cup to fill. Can I fill at the site plug?

The oiler (flip cap) is on the throw out bearing-just to the right of and inline with the clutch fork.Viewed from the top.Fill it with trans. #90 gear oil or #40 or #50 motor oil.A few drops will do.
What is the "site plug"?????....the oil fills the "oiler" and slowly soaks into the carbon throw out bearing.There is no site plug .
If you can not find an oiler you may have an after market T.O. bearing .
The if its squeaking I suppose that you could slightly seperate the carbon from the plate it presses against (towards flywheel) a put a drop of oil there.The plare rides against the three clutch fingers and turns with the clutch The carbon part dose not turn and if it squeaks with the pedal depressed thats where the friction is and causing the squeak.They seldom need oiling but?

Sorry Gene, I had two things on my mind and hastily posted without rereading what I said. Any way found the oiler cap, but I meant to ask if there is somewhere other then the site plug to fill the transmission. I"m using 75W-140 gear oil, heaviest I could find.
Next time I'll reread what I post...it's been a long day, put 40 miles on the car and refilled the tank and I'm still getting 10 MPG. Plugs are black and dry as you said they would be. Guess I'll have to take the carb back to the guy that installed it and have him double check the float level, metering rod and jet.There are no fuel leaks anywhere in the system, not a hint of fumes, it runs fine but 10 MPG bothers me, not so much the cost of fuel but the damage it could cause in the long run.

The single grade 140W would be a bit better but the multigrade is ok.

If the carb rebuilder does not have the correct specifications for the application it is highly likely that the metering rod, main jet or other parts may not be correct. It takes a large supply of parts in addition to knowledge and talent to properly rebuild a carburetor. Most mechanics can install new gaskets and maybe adjust the float but any more is problematical. Right Doggie?

Bow Wow! That is totally correct. And, many of the carburetors that have been rebuilt in the past have the wrong parts installed.

:) :(

The last two replies gave you the correct info.

There is only one way to refill the transmission - its thru the sight or filler hole.Its a pain on my '34 Master-your Standard transmission probably isn't any better.Top it off while the floor boards are removed-infact drain it and refill it while your in there.One way is to attach a hose to the plastic bottle and squeeze the bottle.Some form of a pump would be best.It will hold about 1 1/2 pints.

Thanks again guys, hopefully I'll get the carb corrected.

Have any of you ever tried the Evans cooling system products? They claim it's great for non pressurized systems in vintage cars, here's an address if you want a look- see.
http://www.evanscooling.com/main1.htm

The reason I looked them up is a friend asked me if you can pressurize the old cooling systems, I couldn't find anything here addressing that question so I did some Google searches on non-pressurized cooling systems and found this product.

Their description makes it too good to be true.My guess is that its a zero......when Chip sees this he will tell us more.

Your system can not easily be pressureized due to the location of the overflow.

My 1934 has run hot under some exteeem conditions and I have never has it boil and never added water.I run a 50/50 anti-freeze mix which would bring the boiling point up to about 220 Deg. at sea level.

The claims made by nearly all automotive chemical suppliers are either exageraterated misleading or both. I have not extensively studied the Evans claims but from a cursary look at their website have concluded that they apparently fit the above. I don't know about the claim that mixing ethylene glycol (EG) and propylene glycol (PG) renders the mixture essentually non-toxic. Actually according to my research many years ago the best antidote for ingestion of EG happens to be ethanol which is preferentially metabolized allowing the elimination before it can be converted to the actual hazardous product. We requested a generous supply of antidote but were denied by company management, so occasionally took it upon ourselves to administer the antidote. Though none of us ever knowingly ingested EG we all can attest to the effectiveness of the antidote as we are all still living. How is that for a testimonial. Tongue now removed from my cheek.

The claims of a lower pressure from a non-aqueous fluid are real and to be expected as are higher boiling points. The problem is several fold. I will not go into the details as it gets complicated to understand without a reasonable knowledge of thermodynamics. Let me tell you what I do and use. A 33-50% mixture of ethylene glycol/water is it. I use the best quality water that I can obtain at a reasonable price. Rain water, de-ionized water are most often used. If necessary tap water is a poor substitute but ok. I would never use Evans Coolant of any kind!

For those who do not know, I spent many years as a technical service representative of one of the world's largest chemical companies. Of those years over seven were in the automotive chemical department in coolant development and service. My particular area was heavy duty equipment (over the road trucks and off-road earth moving equipment) also stationary power plants (very large diesel engines).

I'd have believed ya had you just said no:)
I knew I'd get an educated answer here, but it seems I hit the jackpot. Good thing you passed on explaining Thermodynamics or my head would have exploded from ingesting too much knowledge, but I know what I'm running in my car now...without exception or reservation.
Thanks Chipper I'm convinced!

Chipper:
I'd like to add a thought and ask a question about your coolant mixture. I recently completed a fairly major engine removal to clean out chunky rust deposits from the block and head as well as installing a NOS radiator. It was obvious the problem was rust, so when adding new fluid I went with a 50/50 mix of commercial product with 'rust inhibitors'.
What does your EG/water mixture do for rust prevention? Is there another additive for this? I'd like to prevent any further build up of rust and constrictions in the cooling system.

Coach

I guess I should have been more careful in my statement. I actually use a 33-50% mixture of good quality water and EG based antifreeze/coolant. The coolant already contain additives to prevent corrosion. Sometimes I add additional corrosion inhibitor which is no longer available but I have maintained a supply. It is one of the benefits of being in the coolants business. Your local tractor or heavy equipment dealers will have corrosion inhibitors available. Nalcool or other major brands are ok. Many of the others are "mouse milk". A term apparently no longer used for nearly worthless automotive chemicals.

Thanks for the clarification, Chipper!
Coach

I have had my 1950 Chevy truck stored for over 10 years (yeah, I know, why have it if you don't use it) and have kept Prestone antifreeze in the cooling system all this time and surmise that any corrosion inhibition properties are nearly gone. If I drained the cooling system, wouldn't the engine block and radiator corrode while sitting empty or would I better off changing out the coolant mixture every couple of years to prevent/minimize corrosion? What would be best for the cooling system in terms of long term storage?

With no engine heat or air or other negative efects the water antifreeze mixture will provide both freeze and corrosion protection for many years. Ten or more would not be unexpected. There will be some precipitation of solids that should be flushed out whenever the vehicle is put back into service. Just make sure that the cooling system is as full as practical to minimize the air (particularly CO2 which forms an acid with water) that is dissolved in the liquid.