Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#93700 01/16/07 03:10 PM
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My first and reverse gear is shot so I need to remove the transmision.

Any tips or tricks on how to remove the transmision?

Gary

Last edited by 35chevy.com; 01/16/07 03:11 PM.
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On a 1935 Standard it will be best to remove the rear spring U bolts and slide the rear end back.The original U joint used in the Standards was riveted together and sliding the torque back is the best move.Some chopped out the rivets and bolted it back together-You can slide back the U joint ball and see if your is bolted.Sliding the rear end back can also aid in refitting the rear axle caps that go around the housing (at the U bolt location).I am sure yours are loose.
Once everthing is removed from beind the transmission the four trans. to flywheel housing bolts is all that left.(and trans moumt which unbolts).


Gene Schneider
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I was confused how to approach the job. The Chevrolet Mechanics Repair Manual says to slide the rear back and the 1935 Chevrolet repair manual says to split the universal joint. I have new springs so I think I will drop the rear. The books also says to insert 2 transmission guide pins in the top trans to flywheel holes. It says this allows the trans to slide straight. I assume I can use some threaded rod or longer bolts with the heads cut off. Any Idea how long these should be.

Gary

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35chevy.com The shop manual procedure is for the Master cars & trucks (1/2 tons) their U joint can be disassembled in place. It is still easier to unbolt the rear axle and slide back. The Standard has a U joint that is riveted as previously stated and can't be disassembled in the car. Use guide pins from bolts with the heads cut off that are about 3 & 1/2 in. long to allow the trans. main shaft to pull out of the pilot bearing in the crankshaft/flywheel.


34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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Even though the 35 passanger transmission isn't really heavy, a transmission jack will allow you to slide the transmission out and back in safely if it is adjusted right and the transmission is tightly strapped to the jack, while useing those long studs to help guide you back. I use a transmission jack even when the car is on a lift, I have a heavy duty service table on casters that I sit the transmission jack on. Many rental places rent transmission jacks.


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My 1934 shop manual makes no mention of sliding the rear end back on the Standard when is calls for removing the transmission-BUT- if you read the Universal joint section it states that the U joint is of the riveted type and replacement requires "the sliding back of the rear axle untill the prop. shaft is free of the transmission main shaft -for removal.Thats was always one of the bug-a-boos of the Standard model and the X frame in the 1935 model did not help things any.
Check your 1935 shop manual-it probably reads the same.


Gene Schneider
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the 35 master frame is x with a opening through the x for the torque tube . it will not drop very much and does not have enough clearance to slide the trans mission out with out moveing the rear end back ,

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Chev Nut there is a lot of stuff left out of the shop manuals; try removing & rebuilding the rear brakes on a 1.5 ton or for that matter anything to do with the bodies on commerical vehicles.


34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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What about on a 1936 Master coupe? The sevice manual did not state moving the rear end and I removed my tranny without pulling the rear end back but it wasnt easy. Seems it would have been easier had I done that. What do you think?


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The Master and Standards had different frames. On the Master you only need to remove the shifter and hand brake, split the U-joint and remove the transmission cross member, then slide back the transmission. Yes, it's a close fit but as you say it can be done.
Coach

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The problem on the Standards is not the frame.Its the fact that for some strange reason Chevrolet decided that the two halves of the U joint in the Standard should be riveted together rather than bolted.If the rivets are cut out and replaced with bolts the problem is eleminated.
The other alternative for the Standard was to slide the transmission back as far as possible (not slide the rear end back)-and remove the the Trans. front bearing retainer and main drive gear.The remove the clutch.


Gene Schneider

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