VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Dwell, 1934 Standard

My mechanic and I are doing a tune up tomorrow and I need to know the dwell setting on my '34 Standard,any help appreciated.

They didn't have dwell meters in 1934.The manual says to gap new points from .020" to .022"...used set to .018"...The wider setting for new points is to allow for the rubbing block to wear in.This should really blow his mind.The point dwell on late models was from 29 to 33 degrees-staying at the wider setting for your '34 would be OK.
The timing is set by having the ball on the flywheel lining up with the pointer (that is in the opening of the flywheel housing) lining up with it.The octane selector should be set at O before doing this (mounted at base of the disributor)....The the octane selector can be advanced up to 10 more degrees if the engine does not ping.The car was originally made to run on 65 octane gas.With todays gas of 87 octane the engine will perform the best with the timing advanced (with the octane selector) at 8 to 10 degrees.The octane selector was designed to allow the owner to set the timing at the best setting (most advaced) for the fuel available.Back in 1934 the octane varied greatly with the different fuels.Unleaded 87 is great for your car and lead (additives) are not necessary.
Spark plug gap is .032" to .035".I run ACR45's in mine and they work fine.The valves (tappets) are set at .006" on the intakes and .014" on the exhausts with the motor
"hot" and at idle speed.
The grease cup on the distributor should be cleaned out and filled with grease and turned down....Same for the water pump and water resistant grease used.There is also an "oiler" location on the water pump (and starter).
If you order a fan belt from the Filling Station they will send you one of their catalogs.In the catalog you will find that they sell reproductions of the 1934 shop manual and owners manuals.Would sugest that you get both.They also have the 1934 Standard Engineering Manual which tells you a lot about your cars features.
Speaking of lubrication the front wheel bearings should be repacked and the steering gear filled with grease-not to mention a grease job and oil change to get her road ready.Besure the person doing the grease job finds all the fittings (listed in manuals)....#30 or 10W-30 oil for your area.

Happened to think that I didn't mention the 2 generator oilers-you probably saw them.

Considering the long storage etc. I wold also recommend changing the transmission and rear axle gear oil.The trans has a drain plug on the bottom.The rear axle is drained by removing the two lower cover bolts.Refill with 140 or 85W-140.(can you believe they recommended changing the gear oil twice a year, years ago).

I would keep the speed down to 40 MPH for the first hundred miles or so considering the low miles on the engine and the lack of use.After that 50-55 is fine.

Also the head bolts should be retorqued due to the new head gasket-70 Ft pounds is OK there.The manual suggested this at every tune up.Give all the engine bolts a gental retightening.

What body style is you car?

Fantastic, thanks soo much,It was puzzling me because I saw nothing in the repair manual that I found online about dwell ,I've been all over the web , but this site has got to be the most friendly and informative. I'm very glad I joined this group of Chevy Nuts. I also have a "new "Chevy, a frame off restored '70 Chevelle Malibu. I restored to showroom specs, did not want to clone. With everyone cloning Malibus someday the stock Malibus might fetch more just because of scarcity. But I'm really loving the '34 Standard 4 door sedan. After sitting in the Museum for 35 years only minor adjustments, lubricating and cleaning are all that's needed.

I saw in the '34 manual that a new engine should not be run over 30 MPH for first 1000 miles, would that be the same for a rebuilt with 400+ miles?

It's the 4 door sedan with rear suicide doors. Apparantly production of the Standard didn't start until Oct. '34 and 11,800 were made, same model also in'35 with the only noticable difference is the air vent cowl points outwards instead of inwards on the '34. Also I've seen pictures of the '34 Blue Flame" engine where the coil is mounted just above the distributor on the block, but mine is mounted on the firewall. Not sure which is correct or maybe both. The firewall mount seems more practical.
Hey ,Thanks again Chevy Nut for your great info and time, it's very much appreciated.
Andy

The 1934 4 door Standard was introduced late in the year.Prior to that a roadster,phaeton,coupe and 2 door were available.
The 4 door is actually a 1935 body on a 1934 chassis.At the same time the 2 door body was also changed to a 1935.The 1935 has a longer roof .more verticle back panel and back panel in all in one piece.
The 1935 Standard used the larger Master engine,had larger brakes and a full X type frame.The 1933-34 Std engine was the only one to have the water pump mounted up on the head rather down in the block.About the only engine part shared with the Master was the pistons and valve lifters.
All 1934's had the firewall mounted coil.It was moved to the engine side in 1935 to decrease the length of the coil to cap wire for better radio reception and better spark (less travel)...The method of attaching the side cover was also changed (improved) at that time.
They were very consertive in the break-in speeds years ago.Later the suggested 40 for the first 100 miles, 50 for the next 200 and 60 for the next 200....and no sustained high-speed driving for the first 2000 miles.It better to vary the speed and not lug or drive it too slow.It gets better oiling if it reving a little faster.I am sure that your not taking any long trips with it at this time.If the engine will not turn over when its hot then its still tight and more breaking in will be required.....or you have a starter/battery/cable problem.
I never bother to use s dwell meter on mine.They run well with anythig from .018" to .022"...I start with the wider when new.As they wear in and the gap decreases the timing also changes so I recheck it after 1000 miles or so.
I believe the repair manual you found on line is mine...shop and owners as well as Fisher Body manuals on Keith Hardy's MANUAL site.
A 1970 Chevelle would be my choice if I ever wanted a newer model.We trailered my '34 back from Missouri with a friends 1970 Malibu coupe back in Nov of 1970.....and now its a collector car 37 years old.

Thanks Chevy Nut, you are a wealth of information man, hope I don't abuse your knowledge to much.