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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 51
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 51 |
Yes, Hello to all Chevrolet lovers, I am one of them! I just bought this beautiful coupe out of Washington and I am having the engine rebuilt. Where do you find fluid for the knee action shocks? Can you use something over the counter? Also, any other '36 Chevy owners you input on weak points on these cars what to fix or look for? I need help! Thanks, Dave
"Its better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Dave,You will find me over here also. :o
The Knee-action units were filled with shock absorber fluid.They hold about 2 Qts. each.Hydralic jack oil is a perfect substitute.Due to the large quanity required and the expensive of the fluids most have found tha Automatic Transmission fluid works equally as well.Have used it in mine for 35 years.
The first problem with the knee-action units is that they leak.Originally they had a rather poor seal and were never designed to last 70 years.When you fill them you may discover that they will leak where the big arm shaft enters the housing.Also due to being run low on fluid for so many years the shaft mentioned and the bearings it rides on are badly worn, not to mention that the internal parts made be rusted.There are rebuilt units available and are very expensive.
When the "KNEES" are in good operating condition and the steering gear "tight" (no free play) these are wonderful driving cars.
The various repairs and fixing have been discussed here at length and if you do a search I am sure you will find some intresting info.This is the main expensive trouble spot on these cars.
The weak point in the body is the sagging of the drivers door.This can happen for a number of reasons as the hinge screws loosen in the wood and the wood structure inside the door rots.
As long as the front shell is off I would recommend have the radiator cleaned and consider replacing the wiring harness.I know your going thru the brakes-do replace the clutch disc and (carbon) throw out bearing.
Other than that a car of that age could have various problems.Some you will not discover until you "hit the road"...........and do consider becoming a VCCA member.I can't began to tell you of all the advantages. :)
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 51
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 51 |
Well, this is just great! Thanks for your input Gene. I haven't checked the level on those shocks yet, do you just top them off? The rebuilders are also doing the clutch package and balancing the entire engine and clutch. I have the 1936 shop manual that shows how to adjust the steering box and I'm planning to do that. It seems that my steering may be a little loose (I have not driven it yet)but I'll keep you posted. I think I will join the VCCA as I have a 1963 C-10 pickup I'm also restoring. Chevys forever! Thanks again, Dave
"Its better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Yes, you can remove the plug on the top and "top them off".Most of the knee-action units will leak when the car is jacked up and the wheels are hanging down.If the engine is out I would not fill them until the weight is on the wheels and the wheels on the ground.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689 |
Top off the fluids by removing the square pipe plug. As Gene says hydraulic jack fluid or ATF works fine. You might want to check the fit on the large gland nuts. Just put a pipe wrench or strap wrench and snug them up. Every few weeks on Ebay there are "rebuild" kits for knee-action units. These are basically seals for the shock housings and a gasket for the gland nut. If the needle bearings are still in good shape the gasket and seal kit should be sufficient to get you back on the road.
Don't overadjust the steering box. If you take out all the lash with the wheels pointed forward the gears may jam up when you turn to one side or the other. Check your adjustments by rotating lock to lock, and don't expect to remove all the play...it's just the way they were.
And by all means join the VCCA and get hooked up with a local region!
Coach
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 51
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 51 |
I not sure what the "Gland" nut is. Could you explain that to me please? Thanks Dave
"Its better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 689 |
I call the gland nut the large hex nut on the side of the housing where the wheel support arm exits the housing. The arm swings up and down and there is a gasket under the nut to keep the unit sealed. The nut has a small set screw in it, so loosen that first then snug down the nut.
I checked Ebay yesterday and saw a gasket kit; just re-checked and it's not listed. Keep checking.
Coach
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