VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Tech Talk Fuel Tanks

The fuel system is being discussed again on another string. Reminds me that if you do any service work on your fuel tank it is extremely important to insure the plug in the bottom of the tank is checked to see if it can easily be removed and replaced with the tank on the car. Good maintenance of your fuel system will have you removing this plug to drain off the water and other impurities that settle to the bottom of the tank. This service should be performed any time the car is put into action after being in storage for a period.

Ray:
Thanks for the help.I can get the 53 manual off the web, but the 54 supplement is not working. ??
I had the 54 carburator rebuilt for me just a year ago. When I look down the throat, there isn't any gas being squirted. Why?
I can prime the carb, and it will idle. However, when I drive it, it will even go several miles and then quit. Or, it will go just a few yards and quit. It seems to turn over OK, and there is plenty of gas in front of the carburetor.
Help. Thanks, Dan.

I know this has been beat to death on the Chat - but... I am more confused than ever about gas tank restoration and sealing. Some talk like any bozo can do this in their back yard with no problem. Then I read the horror story in "Temporary Storage" where two professionally maintained engines were nearly destroyed with bent push rods and broken rocker arms because of the breakdown of fuel tank snot that gummed up the valve seals and near welded the valves in place. The gas tank on my '32 coupe is sound but full of rust. Out of necessity I have done extensive Internet research. I found a nationally franchised outfit called "Gas Tank Renu - USA." They offer a limited lifetime guarantee on passenger vehicles. Has anyone dealt with this company? Is the process and product as good as they say? Is there any other product or service that is fool proof? I would rather strap a 5-gallon bucket to the bumper than ruin an engine.

Part of what you described above happened to me. I had extensive fuel problems when the gas tank sealer in the saddle tanks on my pickup failed (the sealer was installed by the tank manufacturer as part of the process when the tanks were made). To this day you couldn't pay me to put sealer in a tank after what I went through........and my saddle tanks were only a couple of years old at the time.

:) :grin:

I had a very fine, grannular-like rust in my '55 Buick's gas tank when I bought it. I couldn't drive around the block without the fuel filter clogging up. I removed the tank and used the Bill Hirsch sealing kit, following the directions exactly - put the cleaner in with a buch of stones, BB's, a length of chain, etc. - and rotated, shook and rolled the tank around for quite a while, rinsed it out, dried it in the sun and with a hair drier ("Honey, why does my hair drier smell like gas???") and then sealed it. The sealant has been in there since 1998 and I've never had any more trouble with it and have never had to change the gas filter since.

Just my experience.

Having no personal experience with the refurbishing of a rusty fuel tank I've read everything I can find on the Chat. Seems like opinions are like belly buttons - everybody has one and they're all different. I made my best educated decision and sent my tank to Gas Tank Renu - USA. $375 later (plus shipping each way) my tank is on its way back to me with a life time guarantee. I hope that means my life. If they're right I'll never have to worry about it again.

I had rust problems with the tank on the 52, pulled it and took it to a shop, it was cleaned, recleaned, sealed and worked great for about 2 or 3 years, then the filter plugged up and it was sealer pulling away and getting in the fuel line. I just purchased a new tank delivered to my door for $265.00 in 4 days. Took less time to get it than it took to get it cleaned and sealed. Several members of our local club have had the same experience but with different shops.

Problem is nobody makes an original tank for my '32. They make hotrod tanks that are 15 gallons as opposed to 10.5 gallons.

When this happens there is a lot of grief to deal with. A new tank is always the way to go if one is available.

:) :grin:

An oldie but goodie like yours makes it tough when things like fuel tanks are not available. There is a firm called Tank ReNu or something similar, they did advertise in Hemmings. A friend had a real bad tank repaired and sealed by them. Looks as if they cut holes in the tank for access and can really get inside it and clean it up. He has been satisfied with the job for over 4 years now.

That's exactly what I did. (see #119049 above). The tank looks great. Only time will tell if it's a good as they advertise.

I've been going through the same problem many of you have. One day I was talking to a gentleman in his early 70's about my car. He told me he had worked in the oil fields most of his life and they used something called "Ospho" to prevent rust. It's available at Ace hardware and perhaps other stores as well.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I bought some. I took an old vacuum tank that was rusty on the inside, cleaned the heavy rust out and coated it with some of this Ospho stuff. It dries over night. To date, and that was about 2 1/2 months back, it has not rusted.

I also took another vacuum tank, NOS (if you can believe that) that had never been assembled but was missing a few parts. By saying it had never been assembled I mean the top and bottom had never been put on. Anyhow, it was also fairly rusty. Not caked on however. Making no attempt to remove the rust I simply put a light coat of Ospho on it and waited. That was also about 2 1/2 months back also. Still no rust to be seen.

I've left them in gasoline for a week, in water for a week, outside in this humid environment ever since, and still no signs of rust.

About all I know about Ospho is that it does have phosphoric acid in it. How much, I don't know. It goes on like paint so there's not a heavy layer of it, just a thin coat. Ospho has the consistency of water.

First chance I get I'll try it on my gas tank. Y'all be patient, I'll get back with you.

Had a similar bad experience with my '29 Olds.The original tank was rusty & pitted inside,and after buying one of these "RedKote"
tank sealer kits,I cleaned the living daylights out of it with rocks,nuts,bolts etc.,then followed the directions.
All went well for about 6 months,then all hell broke loose.The silly thing was starving for fuel all the time,would stall(right when it real embarassing,at traffic lights etc),so out came the tank first.This red "snot" was peeling away from the inside of the tank like a big bladder,as well as breaking up into small chunks,and either restricting the fuel flow,or just cutting the flow off completely.
I ended up getting onto a sheet of terne plate(the lead coated sheet stell fuel tanks were made of),getting a new tank made,and replacing the whole fuel line.Now it runs like a charm,and I'd never try these tank sealers again.I'd rather get a new tank made.

To properly clean a tank it is necessary to cut the top of the tank open so you can sandblast all surfaces. Any other cleaning is not satisfactory. I would guess your problem was that the tank was not completely clean before the "snot" was applied. After application a week is recommended for the lining to cure before installation.

After many attempts at stopping my tank from rusting I finally gave up. I tried to get another one made but gave up after the first few metal shops turned me away.

I finally, quite by accident, found a radiator repair shop in Jackson, Ms., about 60 miles from here, that still cooks and seals gas tanks. He told me most of his business was with tractors but that he still gets a fair share of antique car fuel tanks.

It took one week and set me back $150. He guaranteed it for 6 months but said it would outlast me. He couldn't (or wouldn't) tell me what he used to seal it with but insisted it was not redkote. Whatever it was, was very thin and clear.

I put a clear plastic fuel filter in the fuel line about 18" from the gas tank. Being clear I'll be able to easily see if there is any crud coming from the tank.

I also put a sediment bowl just before the vacuum tank. With the modern filter by the tank the sediment bowl will serve no purpose but it may show if there is any water in the tank working it's way to the engine.

The rust had entered the vacuum tank and carburetor so I had some clean up and repair work there to take care of but all was completed and back together late this afternoon. There still being someday light left I had to see how well it would run.

The engine started hard but it had been several months since since I had last started it so that was no surprise. Once started it purred like a kitten. The rust had screwed up the carb to the point where it would lose power under load but today it would actually gain speed going uphill. I drove it 20 miles and all seems well. I would have driven it further but it was getting dark.

Now all that remains is for me to drive it more and wait awhile to see how the gas tank holds up.

The "Ospho" I mentioned in an earlier post does seem to have promise. Although it didn't stop my gas tank from rusting it does seem to have worked on the vacuum tank.

My tank was worse than rusted, with no chance of finding a replacement in Bolivia, so I cut out the bottom, fabricated a new half, assembled and treated it with an epoxy used for wine tanks and fuel tanks. several pics here: Month 9 and here: Month 13

Here is the original lower half


here is the inside of the finished tank (as shot the sender hole)

That looks real good. How well will the epoxy hold up to gasoline?

Here's a super, low tech solution. I put a fairly strong magnet on the outside of my tank (1927 LM 1 ton truck) so the rust inside get parked in one place. I also have 2 inline gas filters that I change every couple of years. I don't drive it too much, but I've not had any problems with rust clogging the lines or messing up the vacuum tank or carb.

Cheers, Dean

Years ago we had a 26 Chev pick up. The inside of the Fuel Tank was very rusty. A friend told me to put a piece of copper line about an inch long into the pick up. This in effect caused fuel intake to be one inch above the bottom of the tank. I never had any problems and we drove the wheels off that little truck. Al W.

Hi Guys,
Clean and seal I say. Why muck around with make do solutions. I did my tank about 4 years ago, with a 3 stage procedure.

Step 1 - A gum and junk cleaner
Step 2 - A rust dissolver and etch
Step 3 - A ceramic lining.

The tank looks smooth as a babys butt. My concern with methods such as removing the tank and having chains and nuts rolling around can damage the fuel pick up pipe, or crack a seam. I also used the same 3 stage process on my vac tank. No more rust concerns now. I would suggest the sealed finish of a tank is only as good as the preparation. If you cut corners, you pay the price, and its easier to blame the sealer than consider you may have done a suspect job.

I followed every step of the process, and have had no problems with the fuel or vac tank. So why would you want to put back into a car, a pitted and rusty tank. The problem will not go away with a few chains or stones rattling around the tank or a magnet on the outside.

Should we scare people away from sealing their tanks with bad experiences caused by taking short cuts or do we suggest they fit a magnet on the outside or rattle a few things around in the tank. I dont consider chains, stones or nuts and bolts or a magnet on the outside as a rust converter.

Or maybe I am just plain out of step with my sealed tank.

Cheers

Ray

Gidday fellas,

Just my two cents worth but I relined an old BMW motorbike tank about 10 yrs ago and it is still in A1 condition (I know the bloke that brought if off me)

I used a product called "Red Kote" tank liner and had it shipped over here from the states, I pressure hot washed the tank and cleaned it a few times, let it dry for days and just followed the steps through, very easy but please take your time and don't rush the process.

On the BMW I have now I remove and hot wash the tank with soap & water every year, then hang dry for a few weeks, I have one very clean rust free original tank that will be turning 30 yrs old this year, If my tank on an old Chev was in good condition I would be doing the same with it.

Thanks Grant

Hip Hip Hooray. At last another voice in the wilderness that speaks up in favour of lining a tank.

10 years ago you say.

Followed the instructions you say.

well cut my legs off and call me stumpy!!!

Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, the defence has no further witnesses.

Cheers

Ray

Hi,

I am trying to get some advice, and or opinions as to wether its possible to fit a 38 box into a Chev 4.

The negatives may be 1st and 2nd gear ratios

The positives may be the synchro, which would be good for my wife and kids to drive.

Any other plus or minus comments I would like to hear.

Regards

Ray

Part of the fun of having an early car is learning how to drive one. Shifting gears and double clutching. I remember driving our 31 home after purchasing it. Going down a big hill I shifted into neutral and almost never got it back in gear at the bottom.

You were game using "mexican overdrive or angel gear" in a car you didnt really know.
There has been many a gear clash until you get used to it, I have done it myself with truck gearboxes. The best trick is to change at lower engine revs.
Tony