VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1931 chev stovebolt

We are talking about the "alcohol boils" calibration on the temp gauge, which has a different boiling point than pure alcohol, so for this treatment at which temperature pure alcohol boils would be redundant. Sure, all readings, whether they are for pure alcohol or otherwise, naturally would be at sea level.

By the way, the "alcohol boils" calibration is on the cold side of the gauge on the 1930-32 temp. gauges, and that calibration is far below (approx. 50 to 60 degrees below) where the "hot" (212 F) area of the gauge would be.

Every time I look at that temp gage I think...yep, alcohol does boil.

I got my gage from J.C. Whithey and it is callibrated (BRRRR),,,(gettin there),,,,,(we is cookin'!) and (Hot Damn)

Hi again..It seems every one has had this heating problem at some time ...27 replies.
In this book I have..1929-1932 Chevrolet repair manual.....It says "The temperature indicator functions as a thermometer indicating the temperature of the water in the cylinder head...A metal tube containing a highly expansive ether gas is inserted in the cylinder head and is conected by a small tube to the indicating instrument which operates on the same principle as a presure gauge,but indicating relative temperatures of the water by gradual movement of the pointer.

just for thought.......frank

Yep......most dudes know how the temperature gauge works, but correcting the overheating problem can take a long time to figure out since there are many variables......like the old radiator, timing, head gasket, water pump, baffle plate, incorrect fan, cracks in the cylinder head, blockage in the cylinder head water jacket and etc. If you have an overheating problem, the temperature gauge will tell you.

I just thought I'd add my 2 cents to this.

I recently had the same problem. I took all the same steps, flushed the system, checked the timing, replaced the waterpump and baffle plate, even disconnected my heater, etc. I finally did buy a new radiator core from the filling station. While not cheap, $700 or so after having the tanks soldered on, it did solve the problem. The car now runs a 140 degrees, and only heats up to 160-175 degrees if left idleing for a long time, but no boiling over like it did before.

If the cost of the new core is to high, a new modern core can be installed for about $250. Doesn't look as nice, but will work fine.

Just a note on the syptoms you have had. Before I installed the new core my car would maintain a good temp as long as I was not going to fast (below 45-50), idling for a long time, or climbing a long hill. If I drove 25-30 mph on a level road it would stay cool all day long.

This is what happened with my 30 sedan. I can't say it would be the same with yours.

Good luck finding a solution.

Pumpkinj: Thanks for the input on your experience. I'm sure that it will be very helpful to others that view this thread. I have found, in talking to others, that in most cases a new radiator core cures the overheating problem, as it did in your case. The radiator is the heart of the cooling system and many radiators just don't function well when they are 74 years old.

:eek: :eek:

How True about a bad radiator causing so much worry. Chipper had his remote infa-red temp gun on one of our tours awhile back and he got some interesting readings from radiators as they parked after a 40 mile drive. I wonder if he was researching material for a G&D Article....how about it Chipper? He also had quite a discussion about top trim on a certain model year with a visitor at the motel, seems with all of the Chevys in the parking lot this dude was talking about a F.o.r.d...

Have you considered a new 350 Crate engine Yet??

With the same radiator?