VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Rear axle removal

On my 32 Coach I have removed the brake drum and brake assembly with backing plate. What I was wondering is there any danger now of pulling the axle out of the rear end. I don't want anything to fall in the diff if I pull the axle. Why I am doing this is that the felt seal is leaking and I would like to replace it with a lip seal instead. Also was there some talk once about using a single sided sealed bearing for the axle bearing to help stop further leaking.

You can pull the axle without any internal pieces hitting bottom. go for it. be interested in posts regarding the seals as i'm in the process of renewing all rear end seals. mike

i just did mine. i have a machinist friend who cut the old outer seal carriers to allow the new metal cased seals ( from the filling station)) to be pressed in. we had to cut slots in the metal rim of the seal to allow it to collapse a bit as it was too big to go into the carrier. it seems to seal just fine.

You can also use a doubled sealed bearing if you like (not a single sealed bearing) on the rear axle.

Coach 32 ,
When you talk of the seal carrier do you mean what I think is the bearing retainer?

JYD
If I use a DSB do I still need a felt seal? Also I purchased the car with the set of brakes that are in it now and the pad are not woven,should they have been? I have put 4000 miles on the car in some very hilly areas and have found the brakes to be good.

With a double sealed axle bearing you should not need any seals. Those that use them usually don't use the seals.

Mechanical brakes used woven linings.

Thanks JYD,
I've pulled the axle and removed the bearing and will order a DSB in the morning.

Hi Dan,
Just a suggestion: If you haven't already, while your going to all of this trouble, why not pull the inspection cover on the differential housing and have a look inside? My experience has been the ring gear carrier bearings are ball bearings and are not as durable as the newer tapered bearings. Use a pry bar or a large screwdriver to see if the ring gear assembly has any side to side end play. The bearings should be preloaded and there should be no movement. If everything is ok all you're out is a gasket.

To replace the outer seal, does the drum have to be separated from the hub? Sure looks like it. :rolleyes:

On the real axle, just pull off the drum and hub assembly, and the metal retainer with the felt outer seal is right there bolted to the brake plate, and the axle shaft goes through the seal.

JYD, Just ran out to the shop after reading your post. POW!!! [I hit myself in the forehead with the flat of my palm]. :o :o When I looked at the drum I thought there was a seal in there. Reached in with my finger and was only iron. Now it comes to light. Both seals are behind the retainer, right? :p Please don't embarass me again and say no. Does the axle HAVE to come out to change the inner one? :rolleyes:

The bearing retainer felt seal is the outside seal. The inner seal is behind the bearing and it is pressed into the axle housing. You have to remove the axle to replace the inner seal.

You can either replace both seals, or replace your axle bearing with a double sealed bearing and ya got it!

All right!! I'm on a roll. Does the FS have the DSB and do I have to take out the inner seal if I use a DSB? :confused: Going to take jimk's advice and play doctor and look inside.

DSB and SSB reminds me of Space Age Jargonese.
Perhaps the following will help.
Original Part - New Departure 1307
Chev Parts Book - 901307
Fafnir Part - 307K ( Min balls, no fill slot )
307W ( Max balls and fill slot )
307P Single Seal Bearing ( SSB )
307PP Double Seal Bearing with permanent lubricant ( DSB )
Other makers Part Nos are similar.
I would also like to try using the 307PP and 207PP in my transmission to control leaks and migration of oil to the differential. Has anyone tried this ??
Herb

Hi Herb,

I always use the SSB when I rebuild a transmission. Just use some common sense in deciding where the single side seal is going, and why you did it that way.

If you do this, it will be necessary to refill the ball joint occasionally. Or if you are in a gambling mood, just use grease on the U-Joint. This combination makes for a much cleaner shop floor.

In reference to the single side seal or double side seal on the axle. I remember the parts man warning me that the sealed bearing would only last about 50,000 miles in that application. (I could only wish the remainder of the car would also last that long).

jerrygolf: You can get the double sealed bearings at your local bearing supplier, and you don't have to remove the inner seal when you use that type of bearing.

:confused:

Jerry, the original felt seal ( it looks like a big felt washer)is behind the hub in a holder bolted on to the backing plate with 4 cap screws, but with the new double sealed bearings you don't need the outer and the axle bearing will fit the same as the original so you don't need to remove the inner seal either.

JYD... is the axle bearing on the '32 retained with a retainer nut the same as the '28? I have never had a '32 torn down.

The '29-32 rear axle bearings are all held in by a plate that bolts to the axle housing. They just use a few more bolts than the four used in a '28.

Ten bolts to be exact! :eek: :eek:

Herb.
In my 32 the bearing is a ND 1208 which is a 40*80*18 the 1307 is a 35*80*21 Do I have the wrong axles or could you have the wrong numbers?
My Bearing guy here tells me that Max Ball bearings are hard to find in sealed units.What are your thoughts. Thanks Dan
P.S. I've got a CR seal coming to replace the felt seal to see if that stops the oil leak for now.

Dan,
Your bearings are different from earlier years and correct numbers. The CR seal will work for a while but your problem is most likely the torque tube seal just behind the u-joint. The bushing is likely worn which results in the original cork seal to leak transmission fluid into the rear end overfilling it. The excess eventually leaks out past the axle seals. If you replace the seal and bushing then no more leaks and the transmission will not lose fluid.

Thanks ChevyChip,
I was aware of the transmission seal problem from past posts. I have to now get the courage up to tackle that problem. But with everyones great help and knowledge I should be able to get through it. :)

I revived this thread because I'm trying to ascertain how to put in an outside rear bearing seal that I just bought for my '32. I removed the wheel, hub, and retaining ring, and I've come down to the axle shaft itself, which starts as the hub nut thread and then turns into a solid cone shaped piece of metal with a woodruff key. The outside seal seems to be held in by this cone-shape. I don't understand if this cone-shaped piece comes off or not.

If I understand the post from Coach32 near the beginning of the thread, do I leave everything else in place, cut away the old seal, and press this new seal in place? If so, can I cover over the bearings and just carefully cut away with a 3/8" drill and cutting tool?