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Can anyone help me. Three years ago I put an NOS clock in my 60, and just like they did 40 years ago it stopped working three years later. I remember when I was a kid seeing the repair made and it was real simple. It was something to do with the contact points were stuck, and that was the common problem. I know I could go with the quartz conversion, but I love to hear the "tic-toc tic-toc" sort of like waiting for the tubes to warm up on the radio. It is all part of the vintage motoring game having all of these little old time things going on. if any of you have ever done it let me know.
Thanks John

I haven't had specific experience with your 1960 clock, but I have worked on lots of old electric clocks and even mechanisms in Edison Phonographs and Victrolas.
In general, I have had good luck cleaning any "contact points" with an Electro Contact point cleaner, (electric motor cleaner in a can).
The most common problem with old car clocks I have seen is the old gears get dusty/dirty and then any old lube gets real stiff. Then the gears won't turn good.
I have super good luck just opening up the clockwork case and gently spraying down the gears and bearings with WD-40. It cleans the gears and lubes the parts. WD-40 soaked on a Q-tip works to scrub scum off if you rather not spray. DRY with moderate/light pressure air and remember cleanliness makes the clock last longer.
Open up the clock....use a maginfying glass, and follow with your eyeballs the "power train" of gearing thru the gears to the hands. Wiggle the hands and see what moves and what doesn't. Never force any part!
DON"T TAKE ANY PIECES OF THE MECHANISM APART!!!! JUST OPEN THE CASE. (and on very old clocks be super carefull to keep the "dial face" from flaking the numbers/finish off, and don't get the face greasy...it is a good time to clean the cover glass though.)
Most often the problem is 90% dirty gears needing light lube. Second rare problem is usually a bad electrics. Third very rare, a mashed gear or bent shaft.
In very sever cases, or if you have a very rare clock, you can send out the clock for repair ...or just have the little motor rebuilt. BUT try WD-40 first on common clocks and see if you can run the clock on a shop bench with the case open ...so ya can see things move.

(post edited to remove errors in advice)

John,
I will give it try this week. Thanks for the input
John 348/340HP

Hi John and lil johnny,

I hate to start an argument, but I have some real concerns about putting WD-40 on a clock mechanism. It may be my imagination but it appears to me that WD-40 leaves a residue that eventually gets gummy. Not good for a clock works. I suggest a very light oil applied with a toothpick and a feather.

I have worked on many Chevrolet clocks and am not aware of any that have a "motor". The clock works are straight forward escapment type movements. The power is provided by a spring mechanism. In the case of a hand wound clock the spring is 'wound' by hand. In the case of the 'electric' clock the spring is wound by a solenoid. As the spring runs down a contact is made that energizes the solenoid for a brief period that 'rewinds' the spring. This procedure is repeated as often as every 30 seconds in some escapements.

So the 'maintenance' for the 'electric' clock consists of the 'oiling' of the works and 'filing' of the contact points. If the points get dirty they have a tendency to 'burn' or stick together. When this happens it either burns up the points or the solenoid.

If you listen closely to the electric clock you will hear the ticking as the escapement takes place and at intervals you will hear the 'snap' of the solenoid as it rewinds the spring.

An option for the defective 'electric' clock is to replace the mechanism with a quartz movement. The clock can continue to operate from the car battery supply or in the case of mirror clocks they may be operated from a selfcontained battery, thereby eliminating the need to run wiring from the mirror/clock to the vehicle battery.

Honest, I did not intend to be this verbose when I started.

Ray,
I am going to Atlantic Central Meet in Maryland this weekend, when i get back I will open it up and take a look. I remember there was something done to the points when I saw one repaired many years ago. I know what you mean about the quartz movement, but it is something about hearing the "tic tic tic tic" of the factory original it kind of makes it in a strange way. Thanks John

AntiqueMechanic (Ray)

I always defer to the man that has actually done the work on the part in question! I should have used more caution with such a "general" answer to a specific Chevy question. (I edited-out the incorrect info so as not to lead someone else astray). Thanks for the correction!!

My experience with the 60' Chevy stock clocks is very limited and I have mostly done aftermarket and other makes of electrics. My most recent jump-start of an electric involved a 1940's electric that had a very small motor that spun a magnetized disc, this disc induced a spin to another ferrous disc that was a fraction of an inch away and drove the gearing. No physical contact between the motor and the gearing and thus no chance for the motor to sieze if the gears jammed.

Your explanation of the solenoid on the Chevy used to wind the spring was very informative and I wish I had done this type of clock before I offered my advice!!!Whoops...

As far as the WD-40 goes I can say that it has worked for me, and when I dried it with air, I never noticed any residue. I used to use a light high-quality sewing machine oil to lube the tiny gears. After reading your post I may return to using that product, but I honestly never saw gummy a residue from WD-40.

Finally, another alternative instead of a quartz transplant is to find an aftermarket magnetic "dash clock" (ebay has em'apx. $10). The best I have found are the funky "Magna Clocks" from the late 1940's thru the early 60's.These little wind-up clocks had a magnetic base and many were made in West Germany and sold in USA Western Auto stores. Tick-tick and they were funky and vintage, and look oddly at home on an old Chevy dash (next to the bean bag ashtray).

As one that has also had success with W-D-40 repairing chevy clocks 51,52,53 and 57 I have three that I did back in 1986 and aired them out with low pressure compressed filtered air,after washing them down with an aerosol can or W-D-40 they will run thru a full cycle still when wound, they run a couple or three days before running down, I don't know if that is as long as they should run on one winding or not,