VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Trucks and Vans 1949 3/4 t wheel rims

I just bought a 1949 3/4T Chevy pickup which has some type of wheel rim with 8 lugs. I don't think the rims are Chevy rims. I would like to be able to use the OEM hub caps for that year but they don't work with the rims that are on truck. I was told that 3/4T used split rims which no one wants to mess with other than semi-truck shops with tire changing cages. Doesn't sound like I want to mess with them either. Are there reproduction rims that aren't split type and that work with old style hub caps?

NO

I am thinking that everyone is being scared by the boogie man. I fixed flats on trucks back when I was 15 and worked at my Dad's friend's Sinclair station. I was shown how to break down and repair these tires and wheels with just a few simple hand tools (Sledge hammer, breaking bars, Ring extractor etc.) and I realized the danger and double checked the rims before pressureing them up "Keep your noggin out of line of the ring if it blows off". I also had a friend that was in my graduateing class of 13 that was seriously injured by a ring that blew off when a Sears tire changer didn't put it together correctly. If you are going to restore and drive these old trucks you need to get some hand tools and see what it was really like to service and drive them , otherwise you may want to stay with the modern iron and be safety first.

I am not trying to scare you from enjoying your old truck, just be aware that these trucks were designed to do work, and there were dangers associated with them. Drivers and service providers did not have the same (protection and oversight that everyone seems to have from big brother Osha). This was a different time and situation. There are real dangers associated with useing and serviceing modern iron also but the lawyers and politicians want you to believe that THEY will protect you from everything, just hire me or vote for me and everything will be hunky-doorie!

Back then... (before color TV in every room and remote control,CNN,cable TV,Harbor Freight,Nikes, Duck tape, WD-40, and rice rockets in your garage)... we realized that no one was going to save your life, limbs, and liberty but old number one, and if you lost an eye or a arm at work you did something wrong, "You will know next time!"

If you are going to use the original split rims, you need to have the tires dismounted at a truck tire shop or do it yourself and carefully inspect each rim and lock ring for condition. I did this on my first truck and had 2 fine rims and 2 with 1 1/2 rust holes where water had puddled between the tube and the rim. I had the 2 good rims sandblasted and themn painted them, though you could clean them up wire a wire brush chucked in a drill or 4" grinder. I elected to find new rims. The ones I found at a trailer shop
These fit my 49 3/4 ton chevy like a glove. I bought the rims a local trailer shop, Croft Trailer Supply in KCMO
http://www.equipmentrental.com/

Croft trailer part # 8166

They are made by Dexter Axel in IN
http://www.dexteraxle.com/home

Dexter part # 017-153
16x6 capacity 3750#

They quoted me $48 ea. I paid $42 ea for 4.
I had to put a thick grade 8 washer on each stud to clear the tie rod end on the steer axel. I plan to take the hubcap clips off of my old rims and bolt them onto the new ones.
Dave

dave s,

Just my opinion, but the addition of a flat washer at each wheel stud location to shim the wheel away from the drum dosen't sound like a safe practice to me. Normally the wheel has much more contact area to the drum than just at the stud areas. Adding a flat washer eliminates a sizeable amount of contact area (wheel to drum)and now allows the rim to flex adjacent to the washer/shims. This condition is also stressing the clamp load between the wheel and drum to a point where lug nut loosness might occur with the possible loss of of a tire and wheel assembly. If you choose to continue to use this attachment system, I recommend that you periodically check the wheel stud torques and visually inspect the wheel(s) for cracking in the bolt circle areas. A better solution to your problem would have been a full surface spacer between the wheel and drum.

Scott
I agree with oldie have a plate made up to imitate the brake drum face. the washers will suffice to guage thickness needed but dont space more than 1/4" or the wheel studs will still stress out giving same result.
Tony

Were the split rims the same in '55 (3/4 ton) as they were in the late 40's?

This is the issue with these 3/4 and 1 Tons of the AD era, normal 1 piece rims won't clear the tierod ends. There are trailer wheels, the white spoked ones with the red stripe that will most likely fit. I think the back spacing is around 3 1/2 ". These rims do not take original hubcaps.

They do make adapters that will give you the spacing that you need. Some people use them on pickups to widen the track for towing an RV trailer.

Another option is a custom wheel by people like Stockton Wheel. They can make you a wheel to your requirements.

I have a good set of split rims off of a 55 3/4 ton pu and a set of the white spoke wheels also. The truck was rodded and I picked up the wheels for the future.

If someone needs them let me know, can't get to them right now because of health reasons but should be able to get them out of the attic later this year. Oh yea, they still have the original rubber on the wheels (splits not white spokes). The white spokes may have 'walked off' already, will look if I need to.

I don't know if the 55 and 49 3/4T are the same.
Something else that is confusing. The Chevy Salesman Manual shows two different wheels went on a '49 3600. A 15x 5.50 with .125 offset, GM #x-45033 and a 17 x5.0 with .4375 offset, GM #x-45035. What gives?

scottb,
just to be clear,, that offset is the offset from center? That would give a 2.9475" backset on the 17" rims.