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Oil Can Mechanic
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OP
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2002
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Are the hood badges on a 36 & 37 stainless? I thought they were until I looked at them closely and can see brass showing through . Would it be best to chrome them and then repaint, since they can't be polished?
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
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Yes, the 37 - 38 "Bonnet Badges" were Chromed Brass. Easiest way to paint is use wide masking tape over emblem. Exacto knife the lettering. (fairly easy). Paint dark blue and remove the tape. Good luck, Lou
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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OP
Oil Can Mechanic
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Thanks Lou, for the info. I have repainted similar items by using a latch grease stick and covering the raised portions with grease. The paint rolls off of the covered areas.
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2002
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What is the correct color of blue and where does one find it? Thanx.
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I used Boatswain blue which may not be correct but looks close to original. Look at < http://la.znet.com/~c1937/paint.htm > for paint chips.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 410
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Posts: 410 |
Is there any difference between 34,35 and early 36 chevy 1/2 ton pickup? Other than the hubcaps! How can you tell them apart? :confused: :confused: easymoney babes love chevy pickups 
easymoney
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Just on a "walk-by" there are no great differences between 1934 and 1935 on the out side.The coil is mounted on the firewall in 1934 and on the engine side in 1935.There are engine improvements and also minor brake changes. The 1936 has two horizontal hood louvers and the grille name plate in on the grille rather than above it.Late 1936 also has the more modern high roof cab.
Gene Schneider
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I like to add my 2 cents on the truck differences. 1934 trucks vs 1935 have quite a few changes. 1934 was the last year of the chevy bowtie ID on engine parts. 1935 all the castings have GM instead of bowties. The spark plug wire tips have GM stamped on them instead of previous bowties. The radiator & fanbelts have GM paint stamped instead of the bowtie. The 1935 truck has a single bit key; 1934 has a double bit ign/door key. 1935 chevy added a spring stop to the front spring frame mounting so that in case the main spring breaks the next leaf will catch. Inside the truck the spare tire cowl mounting has a reinforcement plate added to the cowl for 1935 where the top rod mounting is. The 1934 used the 1932 type wire wheel (w/a 17" wire wheel) on the early truck and the 1934 master cap with the black stripe on the majority of the year. The 1935 trucks used the 1935 master cap. There are a lot of smaller engineering changes to brakes, rear end pinion gear bearings and other parts you can't see. All my Chevy information has been packed away as I have been building a new house and we haven't got moved in yet. When we do I'll be able to complete the rest of differences I found over the years. You can't beat a 1935 truck.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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I would like to make a few more additions to my last message. The 1935 engine has a fuel pump with a glass filter bowl on the inlet side 1934 only has the pump. 1934 coil is on the firewall on passenger side . 1935 is on the middle of upper tappet side cover above the distributor. 1935 engine has oil pan squirt tubes in the dipper troughs to oil the rod bearings at higher speeds which also required a bigger oil pump. The 1935 water pump is larger in dia. both pulley and the vaned pump. To increase the water pump flow the lower radiator hose & elbow were increased in dia. There is a baffle plate inside the block to prevent liquid oil from exiting the road draft tube on the 1935 engine. The pistons on the 1935 engine are tin plated when new to help prevent bore scoring during break-in. The spark plug hole angles on the 1935 heads were changed to get better combustion burning. Valve keepers on the later long/short bolt mountings were changed to modern "U" shaped instead of the earlier straight keeper. Compression pressure was raised on the 1935 engine up to 5.6 to 1. I'll try to see if I can remember more. My those 35 trucks are good.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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I would like to make a few more additions to my last message. The 1935 engine has a fuel pump with a glass filter bowl on the inlet side 1934 only has the pump. 1934 coil is on the firewall on passenger side . 1935 is on the middle of upper tappet side cover above the distributor. 1935 engine has oil pan squirt tubes in the dipper troughs to oil the rod bearings at higher speeds which also required a bigger oil pump. The 1935 water pump is larger in dia. both pulley and the vaned pump. To increase the water pump flow the lower radiator hose & elbow were increased in dia. There is a baffle plate inside the block to prevent liquid oil from exiting the road draft tube on the 1935 engine. The pistons on the 1935 engine are tin plated when new to help prevent bore scoring during break-in. The spark plug hole angles on the 1935 heads were changed to get better combustion burning. Valve keepers on the later long/short bolt mountings were changed to modern "U" shaped instead of the earlier straight keeper. Compression pressure was raised on the 1935 engine up to 5.6 to 1. I'll try to see if I can remember more. My those 35 trucks are good.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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More differences between 1934 and 1935. The 1934 engines have a straight pipe to vacuum hose fitting at the rear of the intake manifold; the 1935 has a 90 degree elbow fitting that is pointed toward the cowl. 1934 exhaust manifold heat rise valve spring (thermostat) has a solid cover on the top side, the spring is not visible; 1935 has an open area in the top center allowing you to see the spring.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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OK, now what do they share in common? LOL
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I have a correction for the above vacuum fittings the 1934 & 35 mqaster engines have the 90 degree fitting and the 1934 & 35 standards and trucks use the straight up vertical fitting. Crankshaft & frt. damper are also inproved for 1935. As far as common parts two many to list use your parts book. Another pickup difference between 1934 & 1935 is the 1935 assembly added a cross rod through the box frt. panel that ties it to the two pickup box sides.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Another clarification on something said above. It was stated that the later '36 had a high cab? Actually, the 34, 35 and early 36 had a high cab and the later 36 had the more modern low cab.
I have also noticed that the 36's had stainless radiator surround while the earlier 34's and 35's had a steel surround - is this universally correct?
Did any of the high cab 36's have mechanical brakes?
I have an unrestored 35 with a 40 year old paint job that looks pretty decent and a 36 suburban in a million peices (purchased in a big box) . . . it is amazing how many changes have been made in one year.
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All the 1936 trucks had hydraulic brakes. The 1934 & 35 regular production trucks had steel radiator shells that were painted. 1935 had a "Special Chassis" Option in which the radiator shell raised band around the grille scrren was chromed as well as the vertical ribs of the grille screen. Other chromed items were the headlamps and supports, the spare tire hold down, the hood handles. The option inclused a front bumper and all four shock absorbers. The early 1936 pickups had a high cab very much like the 1935 cab except the windshield had rounded lower corners. The 36 high cab also had mostly all steel doors that were stamped with the same contours as the wood. The top and rear of the interior window frame was metal vs the 34-35 seat fabric trim. The inner door panel have a rectangle stamped in them where the 34-35 haqd vertical ribs. The dash on the high cab had the instruments aon the left of center and the glove box on right. All the 1936 single unit trucks; panel, canopy express and suburbans had all the high cab features. I have been trying to get a hold of a 1935 Suburban for a lot of years all I need is the body as I have a lot of the chassis parts to make one. I have most of a high cab 1936 truck with a good set of doors if you need anything for the suburban.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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Early 1 1/2 ton trcks (R series) had mechanical brakes-same as the 1935 1 1/2 tons.
Gene Schneider
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Do you have any idea how many of the R series were built with mechanical brakes? Couldn't have been very many. It seems strange that Chevy would have continued to use them in 36, must not have been able to keep up with supplies or they had a lot of left over parts. I know that the Canadian Maple Leaf 2 ton trucks used the same type hydraulic brakes as the 36 Chevy in 1935, at least the pictures of the brake assemblies look the same.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest. 36 high cabs are OK too.
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Am doing a search thru my "collection"-hope to find more info.
Gene Schneider
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Oil Can Mechanic
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OP
Oil Can Mechanic
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Hey, what happened to my original question?? No problem, it was solved a long time ago and I enjoy this topic more. Richard
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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We just never stop talking. At least the thread stayed with trucks- :arrow:
Gene Schneider
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