Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#72733 06/14/03 11:04 AM
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pcook Offline OP
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I have begun working on my 35 1-1/2 ton. I am having trouble getting the door handles off. There is a bolt on the interior of the door that seems to attach the handle on. The problem is that the head of this bolt is so thin that no tool stays on it. I am wondering if I have to remove the whole latch assembly on the interior of the door to remove the handle. Does anyone have any answers?

Thanks,
Struggling Paula

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#72734 06/14/03 11:53 AM
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Paula, I don't know if the 'older models are the same as the Advance Design('47-'54), but does the bolt head seem to be something besides, phillips head, or flat(Slot) head screw. If so it my be the "clutch head" type screw that you will need a clutch head screw driver to remove it. Spanky


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#72735 06/14/03 12:36 PM
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Pcook I think it may be the same setup as my 28 and it has a really thin hex-headed bolt on the inside that holds the assmbly on the door, I tapped it lightly with a small hammer and used penetrating oil on it before I could get my needlenose vicegrips to break it loose,


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#72736 06/14/03 01:01 PM
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pcook Offline OP
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Spanky, MrMack,

Yes, it is a very thin hex head bolt. I did put penetrating oil on it but did not try tapping it. I will give that a try. Thanks!

I am going to have to take the latch off to get the rust off the interior of the door. After studying it awhile, I think I can remove the wood parts and leave the latch assembly attached to it. Hopefully, it won't fall apart. I plan to take alot of pictures of this before and during disassembly. Manuals/pictures of this are not easy to come by.

Thanks again for the help.

Paula

#72737 06/14/03 07:46 PM
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Pcook I don't know how experianced you are, I have only had a wood frame car for a year I did rebuild the window channels and all the wood was good except for some rusty screws and such, I also drilled out the wood screw holes and glued in hardwood dowel rods, then pre drilled them before putting the latches, remote door handle and garnish moldings back, it worked out better than I expected, I am proud to say. Tapping on the screws often works for me. Also PB Blaster penetrating oil(aerosol can) has been the best I have ever used.


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#72738 06/15/03 10:47 AM
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pcook Offline OP
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MrMack,

Well I guess you could say I am somewhat experienced. I have helped out my husband in our shop with various projects. But I have never tackled a job quite like this. The wood on the doors is pretty much gone, especially along the bottom. I have been saving my pennies and hope to order all new from KCWood this fall. My friend who's profession is doing body work on vehicles tells me I should give up. Quote "Those doors are toast." However, there is metal under the rust. I am not going to let him dampen my enthusiasm. Most of the doors are pretty good because my great uncle had painted them with silver roofing paint? Everywhere that stuff was is fabulous. Along the bottom of the doors is the worst. Being a farm truck its whole life, the front fenders are a bit "mis-shapen" and one has a prominent tear in it. But my husband assures me that can be fixed. Thanks for the help. I hope you will help me again if need be.

Thanks,
Paula

#72739 06/15/03 04:34 PM
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I think you are on the right track and have a good attitude, The door bottoms are probably the easiest metal panels to replace. Rodman that sells wood does doors I believe, I know of people sending him doors to have new wood installed, I don't know if he does the metal work. Several of our members have said that Rodman is very good with Chevrolet wood. I haven't needed his services YET.


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#72740 06/24/03 06:42 AM
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I have 37s that use the same door handle. The latch can not be removed without taking off the door handle or cutting the door. . .
After using Cyclo (not WD40) and some well placed taps, I use a 1/2" hexagonal (Not 12 point) socket that has the surface ground to grab what little surface is available. . .
If you snap it off, Drill and re-tap. I've ground the heads of stainless bolts to match the originals. I get the bolts before I tap as the original thread is not always available. . .
Good Luck.

#72741 06/29/03 09:43 AM
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pcook Offline OP
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Well, we finally got the door handle off. I used PB Blaster for about two weeks and tapped, tapped, tapped. Then one evening when I was otherwise occupied, my husband came in and handed me the door handle. I was ecstatic, but a little dismayed that I wasn't the one who got to remove it.

Anyway, thanks for the advice that all of you provided.

Paula

#72742 06/29/03 01:02 PM
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Pcook, I am glad to hear your problem has been resolved to your satisfaction!

:) chevy


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