VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Starter Problems

I have a problem getting my 32 engine to turn over enough to start the engine. I have removed the head and the oil pan. Cleaned all the exposed parts made sure the piston rods were in good shape and that the pistons were in good shape (did not remove).
gave the cylinders a shot of Miracle Oil and replaced everything.
I can turn the engine by hand fairly easy but when I try the starter (rebuilt locally)--the starter will turn for only a second.(new battery and have also tried an old 6 volt charger/jumper).
Someone suggested I try 12 volt which I tried and it turned over for 30 seconds than began to smoke, Any suggestions? I am stumped.

This sounds electrical to me. First thing I'd look at is ground connections - the strap from the engine to the frame (both ends), the strap from the battery to the frame (both ends), and the battery terminal posts themselves. I'd want those connections to be real shiny clean, for a "no-questions-asked" solid grounding. We're talking sand paper, scraping with a razor knife, wire brush wheel in an electric drill - whatever it takes to end up clean shiny virgin metal; and then real tight on the connection. And I would also check the positive battery cable real close. I know it sounds basic, but it's the first logical place to look.

I'm assuming, of course, that you know the 6 volt battery is good and strong, fully charged. Even then, they don't crank as long as modern batteries, generally.

If all that didn't solve it, then I'd second guess that rebuilt starter. There are guys that are good at working on the old stuff, and then there are guys that think they're good....

Jump starting with a 12 volt is OK, 30 seconds is getting kind of on the long side to keep it connected, though. Smoke ain't surprising....

Make sure that your positive cable is a 6 volt cable and not a 12 volt cable. Also, it is okay to use 12 volts on a 6 volt starter, but only run the starter for about 10 seconds at a time on 12 volts....then let it cool a little, and then do it again. And....make sure that only the starter is connected to the 12 volt battery.

On the 6 volt battery, make sure that it has at least 625 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps).

Check your engine ground strap and make sure that it is still connected. 1932 was the first year for rubber motor mounts, so there is a ground strap on the left rear of the engine that is connected to the frame crossmember.

If all of your connections are good, and if you have a high CCA battery, then I too would suspect the starter rebuild.

If your engine is free then there is no reason the starter can't do the job. Good connections are extremely important in a six volt system. I have had starters rebuilt, one by Skip Whats His Name and the other one locally. Even the one rebuilt by Whats His Name perfoms well. The 12 volt jump can be done but the engine should fire pretty quick. Don't crank a 12 volt jump longer than about 6 or 7 seconds at a time. Let it rest for at least 30 seconds.

Roadster

Who??? :confused: :confused:

Just a question why does it take 30 sec to try to start your engine 12 or 6 volts?You maybe should be looking for the no start problem.Careful using 12volts it can be hard on the ingition coil.
You mentioned that the engine was easy to turn over with the crank,how easy?If too easy,check compression.Most engines will start when cranked over a few revolutions with the starter if you have all the basic requirements.

hope you hear it purrrrrr

please post what you find

Currently, the car is not completly wired up, we are doing a test fire on the motor before we go any farther with the car. The starter is hard wired to the jump charger, ground is very solid. The coil and plugs were not even in the car when we turned it over to create oil pressure before running ( bottom end was gone through and cleaned, so we wanted oil pressure before we put the spark to it). It seems like the starter was not rebuilt correctly. Does anyone have a ballpark amperage measurement that the starter pulls on a 6V or 12V battery?

Should the motor be Meged out?

The engine turns fairly easily by hand, the bearings are a bit worn, so there is no bind.

Hi,

I don't have the specific figures for your situation, however generally a no-load-test would show about 65 amps and a lock test would show approximately 525 amps. This is based on use of 6-volts.

Following this thread would lead me to believe you have a starter motor problem.

If you are turning over the engine to generate oil pressure, and all the wiring is not inplace, why don't you make a shaft to turn the oil pump with a 1/2" drill?

Mr. Nice Guy, AKA Roadster

Lets assume the cables are clean and the right size , the battery is charged and clean. Is the cam timming right on. As with all new engines and ones that have not run for a while priming the oil system, is a must. 12 volts usualy spins 6 volts. Only thing left is the cam timming. Well thats my 2 cents. :eek:

Cam timing doesn't enter the picture till the starter turns the engine over.

Hi

Roadster has the best idea to prime the engine,there are other ways to without turning the engine over.
AntiqueMechanic is close on the specs.The specs I have are for a"31 BB series and 32BA series" model 714-L starter.

speed=5000rpm,volts=5,Amperes=65,torque=0lb/ft
locked, volts=3.63,amperes=475,torque=12lb/ft

hope this helps

I know you said that you had the starter rebuilt but check your starter switch. It may have a burnt spot on it and may not be making good contact. This could cause it to act the way you are describing. A heavy starter cable say 1/0 would help. Make sure your bendix drive is properly engaging/disengaging and not hanging up. A friend of mine has a bad ring gear section and the bendix drive doesn't always work properly for this reason. Also you are draining the your battery down so make sure to keep it charged up. 6 volts should and will turn it over if everything is ok.